Help with Rifle value?
This is a Japanese Arisaka Type 99 rifle. It has the cleaning rod, numbers match on bolt, bayonet with sleeve, and the mum is fully intact. I also have another Type 99 rifle with no extras just plain with the mum scratched off. Any help with this would be greatly appreciated, here's some images:
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Nice rifle. scarce anti aircraft rear sight and intact mum make this a real find. My suggestion is to look at the auction site at T99 Arisaka rifles and get a feel for both of your rifles value along with the bayonet value also.. 0 -
quote:Originally posted by armydriver
Nice rifle. scarce anti aircraft rear sight and intact mum make this a real find. My suggestion is to look at the auction site at T99 Arisaka rifles and get a feel for both of your rifles value along with the bayonet value also..
Ok thanks I give that a try. So far ive taken it to two different gun shops one offered me $150 and the other $175 but I felt like that was still a little low for a classic rare rifle.0 -
to give you an idea the one linked below is mine on the auction side. Mine looks nicer but no bayonet. I'd guess the bayonet add 100 or so
http://www.gunbroker.com/Auction/ViewItem.aspx?Item=2022202680 -
Gun shops are the worst place to try to sell your guns-they usually will give you no more than 50% of the true value(and thats being generous) because they have to turn around and make a profit. SOME gun shops will give you a little extra in credit towards the purchase of something new-some do and some don't. You're better off selling it on Gunbroker. 0 -
quote:Originally posted by golferboy426
to give you an idea the one linked below is mine on the auction side. Mine looks nicer but no bayonet. I'd guess the bayonet add 100 or so
http://www.gunbroker.com/Auction/ViewItem.aspx?Item=202220268
Nice same as mine. By any chance do you have any tips on removing some of the rust spots. Or should I just leave it alone. Will a professional restoration deteriorate the value?0 -
quote:Originally posted by ruger41
Gun shops are the worst place to try to sell your guns-they usually will give you no more than 50% of the true value(and thats being generous) because they have to turn around and make a profit. SOME gun shops will give you a little extra in credit towards the purchase of something new-some do and some don't. You're better off selling it on Gunbroker.
Yeah that's what it looks like so far. I'm just really new to gun broker and need to figure out how to do the process. Although I have sold on eBay but eBay doesn't sell firearms.0 -
These aren't THAT rare that folks will pay big money for one in poor condition. Your rifle & bayonet are pretty rusty, &, I would guess, pitted. If yours looked as good as Golferboy's....you'd be right to complain.
You may increase the looks by cleaning the metal (0000 steel wool & lots of Kroil); it's worth the effort.
Since you took it to 2 gunshops & asked what they would give you, I assume you want to sell it. If so, list it on Gunbroker, starting at $175, &, if it's worth more, then you will get it.
Neal0 -
As Neal stated,,,also do not take it apart...0000 with WD-40...Kroil, as it is getting pretty thirsty for a cleaning job. List it her and you WILL get more than 175...I will guarantee that,,as I will bid more than that. E-mail me when you list it.
Also the other with mum removed ect...is about right at 150..Your mileage might vary.
mm8nambu0 -
quote:Originally posted by jorgeestolt
quote:Originally posted by golferboy426
to give you an idea the one linked below is mine on the auction side. Mine looks nicer but no bayonet. I'd guess the bayonet add 100 or so
http://www.gunbroker.com/Auction/ViewItem.aspx?Item=202220268
Nice same as mine. By any chance do you have any tips on removing some of the rust spots. Or should I just leave it alone. Will a professional restoration deteriorate the value?
I will recommend a technique for removing light rust from blued metal surfaces of guns but care must be taken. This technique will only remove surface rust and will not remove rust that has eaten into the metal but it will slow further damage. Also, never use this technique on very collectible and valuable guns.
Take a piece of copper water inlet pipe about 6 to 8 inches long and hammer it totally flat with a ball-pin hammer. Next, file both ends similar to a putty knife but sharpen only one side (one side of the now flat copper pipe being the one you want to make the top while the other is the bottom) like a scraping knife for removing paint. Some disassembly of the rifle is in order to prevent any slips that may damage the stock. Now apply a generous amount of Gun Oil such as Rem Oil to the area of blued metal where the surface rust needs to be removed. Very carefully begin to scrap the rust from the surface as if you were removing paint from a window. Note: Make sure that you don't scrap any areas that have not been oiled as the copper pipe scrapper can scratch the blued surface. However, it will not damage the bluing on areas that have been oiled! You may have to bare down somewhat to remove some stubborn rust areas, if it can be removed at all (Note: this method will not remove any pitting, it will just remove surface rust!). Don't be alarmed that the copper from the pipe leaves fair amounts of copper coloring on the areas on the gun that are treated. When done, just rub the oil off with a clean cleaning cloth and the copper residue will be removed at the same time. Once you have removed as much of surface rust as possible, re-oil the entire gun with a light coating and leave a light coat of oil on the gun to prevent any reoccurrence of surface rust returning quickly. This method is not a solution to the problem of the rust but it will slow any further rust damage and make the gun more presentable.
I have also seen Gunsmiths and Gun Dealers use Copper Brillo Pads on old guns of low value that have that old rust brown look to them. The rust brown look is rust but is has given the gun that brown patina that some Collectors like to see on an old collectible gun. However, since the gun in this cae is of low value and has little if any collectibility, it is deemed okay to remove the old rust brown. This is done using pretty much the same technique as above but instead of using a Copper Pipe, they use the Copper Brillo Pad so the entire barrel and action can be scrubbed. This technique requires that a generous amount of oil be spread over the entire gun metal.
If you are somewhat uncomfortable in trying this on the subject rifle, then experiment first with a much lower valued gun that has some surface rust.0 -
quote:Originally posted by huntsman53
quote:Originally posted by jorgeestolt
quote:Originally posted by golferboy426
to give you an idea the one linked below is mine on the auction side. Mine looks nicer but no bayonet. I'd guess the bayonet add 100 or so
http://www.gunbroker.com/Auction/ViewItem.aspx?Item=202220268
Nice same as mine. By any chance do you have any tips on removing some of the rust spots. Or should I just leave it alone. Will a professional restoration deteriorate the value?
I will recommend a technique for removing light rust from blued metal surfaces of guns but care must be taken. This technique will only remove surface rust and will not remove rust that has eaten into the metal but it will slow further damage. Also, never use this technique on very collectible and valuable guns.
Take a piece of copper water inlet pipe about 6 to 8 inches long and hammer it totally flat with a ball-pin hammer. Next, file both ends similar to a putty knife but sharpen only one side (one side of the now flat copper pipe being the one you want to make the top while the other is the bottom) like a scraping knife for removing paint. Some disassembly of the rifle is in order to prevent any slips that may damage the stock. Now apply a generous amount of Gun Oil such as Rem Oil to the area of blued metal where the surface rust needs to be removed. Very carefully begin to scrap the rust from the surface as if you were removing paint from a window. Note: Make sure that you don't scrap any areas that have not been oiled as the copper pipe scrapper can scratch the blued surface. However, it will not damage the bluing on areas that have been oiled! You may have to bare down somewhat to remove some stubborn rust areas, if it can be removed at all (Note: this method will not remove any pitting, it will just remove surface rust!). Don't be alarmed that the copper from the pipe leaves fair amounts of copper coloring on the areas on the gun that are treated. When done, just rub the oil off with a clean cleaning cloth and the copper residue will be removed at the same time. Once you have removed as much of surface rust as possible, re-oil the entire gun with a light coating and leave a light coat of oil on the gun to prevent any reoccurrence of surface rust returning quickly. This method is not a solution to the problem of the rust but it will slow any further rust damage and make the gun more presentable.
I have also seen Gunsmiths and Gun Dealers use Copper Brillo Pads on old guns of low value that have that old rust brown look to them. The rust brown look is rust but is has given the gun that brown patina that some Collectors like to see on an old collectible gun. However, since the gun in this cae is of low value and has little if any collectibility, it is deemed okay to remove the old rust brown. This is done using pretty much the same technique as above but instead of using a Copper Pipe, they use the Copper Brillo Pad so the entire barrel and action can be scrubbed. This technique requires that a generous amount of oil be spread over the entire gun metal.
If you are somewhat uncomfortable in trying this on the subject rifle, then experiment first with a much lower valued gun that has some surface rust.
I have some birchwood blue and rust remover and some green scratch pads will that work? Can I just use some CLP for gun oil? Im in the military so im familiar about cleaning carbon from a rifle but cleaning rust without damaging the finish makes me a little nervous.0 -
Scratch pads,,,don't know about those,[?] Birchwood will be fine,,,it is rusty,,and underneath will be pitted,,so a general cleaning is all that I would do with that particular rifle. I have done it to some of mine with good results,,,presents better ,,,but would not do it to a Winchester 66 [:0]or the likes/..nambu 0 -
quote:Originally posted by mm8nambu
Scratch pads,,,don't know about those,[?] Birchwood will be fine,,,it is rusty,,and underneath will be pitted,,so a general cleaning is all that I would do with that particular rifle. I have done it to some of mine with good results,,,presents better ,,,but would not do it to a Winchester 66 [:0]or the likes/..nambu
Well if you think about it the scratch pad is just plastic fibers, dont see how it could scratch the finish. Plus Ill need to use latex gloves cause blue and rust remover says that it causes cancer.0 -
quote:Originally posted by jorgeestolt
I have some birchwood blue and rust remover and some green scratch pads will that work? Can I just use some CLP for gun oil? Im in the military so im familiar about cleaning carbon from a rifle but cleaning rust without damaging the finish makes me a little nervous.
The Copper Pipe or Copper Brillo Pad will not remove, harm or scratch the bluing as long as the areas treated have a generous amount of oil on them. I know this because I have done it many, many times. I would not recommend using any other type of scratch or scrubber pad as it/they will more than likely scratch the bluing finish. Also, if you are going to try a Rust Remover, then try it on an area of the metal that is hidden by the wood stock. If it removes the bluing while removing the rust as i believe that it may, then you will know before trying it elsewhere on the rifle's metal!0 -
As a second thought,,I would NOT use the Birchwood...Get some WD on base, got to be some there somewhere. 0 -
quote:Originally posted by mm8nambu
As a second thought,,I would NOT use the Birchwood...Get some WD on base, got to be some there somewhere.
Yeah the base is the worst part along with the sleeve of the bayonet. I think im gonna just try the fine copper wool and gun oil method since the rest of the rifle is ok just has little tiny rust spots everywhere.0 -
quote:Originally posted by jorgeestolt
quote:Originally posted by mm8nambu
As a second thought,,I would NOT use the Birchwood...Get some WD on base, got to be some there somewhere.
Yeah the base is the worst part along with the sleeve of the bayonet. I think im gonna just try the fine copper wool and gun oil method since the rest of the rifle is ok just has little tiny rust spots everywhere.
Good call,,,Have a Good Thanksgiving[:)],,,and let me know when you put it up for sale as I will throw you a couple bids/0 -
By any chance has anybody ever used mobile 1 synthetic oil instead of gun oil? 0
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