S&W AIRWEIGHT
I RECENTLY PICKED UP A STUBBY AIRWEIGHT AND THERE IS NO MODEL STAMPED ON FRAME, RIGHT SIDE BBL 1 7/8 STEEL BBL SAYS AIRWEIGHT 38 SPC CTG SQUARE DIAMOND GRIP S/N GRIPS YOKE FRAME MATCH C406XXX RAMPED FRONT SIGHT, SEE 4 SCREW HEADS TRIGGER GUARD, 2 FRAME AND 1 FRONT GRIP TAG SAYS MODEL 10 CASE HARDENED TRIGGER AND HAMMER MAY BE ALLOY FRAME, ON SURFACE ON CYLINDER ARM 48127 THEN LOOKS LIKE A m AND A 6 OR A 9 NO S/W LOGO ON LEFT SIDE FRAME. DEFINITE A ALUMINUM FRAME STEEL CYLINDER AND BBL, WAS WONDERING WHAT MODEL IS THIS , COULD IT BE A PRE MODEL 10 BUT THE AIRWEIGHT IS THROWING ME OFF,AND YEAR OF MFG , NO BOX, VERY LITTLE CYLINDER WARE S&W LOGO DIAMOND WALNUT GRIPS MINT WITH CHECKERING , THANKS update 6 shooter alum frame checked with magnet, steel cylinder and bbl no model 12 stamped anywhere, thanks for the information. the auction tag had it listed as a model 10 , there is no s&w insignia on left side of frame either , i will try to post pics this evening, thanks for all the help and info. Marc update the auction was an estate sale of my neighbor who passed away recently. He was a career lawyer and was a CO in the Air Force at Wright Patterson AFB, he was 83. I was out of state deer hunting during auction and had my neighbor pick it up if it went for a certain price. THey had advertised 3 model 10's and this one was the only stub nose and only one with diamond walnut grips, i didnt have a chance to talk to the auctioneer but i was very happy when i seen it. bbl and cylinder looks like a polished blue if that makes a difference. never mind what looks like scratches on frame, no model number on crane either
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Hey guys, I need a some input from some knowledgeable people, and I am sure this is the right place. I recently purchased a S&W 642 Airweight for my wife to carry. She is a slight thing of petite proportions and small hands. She is no newbie to shooting and although she says she like the gun, I detect a bit of apprehension in her voice. After 34 years of marriage I know her well enough to know the she will not complain about the small things. She carries the gun and loves the size and weight, but when we go to the range she migrates back to her Kimber or my K19 S&W. I think the recoil of the snubby was kind of a surprise to her. I want to make the gun as comfortable as possible for her to carry and shoot. Any suggestions? 0 -
Dad has one just like it. I looked this up once upon a time. Probably 80s production (someone with a serial guide can probably confirm exactly), J-frame, not rated for +P like the modern titanium ones.
IIRC.0 -
If it is a sixshooter, it is a Military and Police Airweight, which was designated Model 12 in 1957. 0 -
It would be a lot easier to help you if you didn't use all upper case letters, and also and have somebody help you with your punctuation. Between these two things, trying to discern the meaning of your post is quite difficult to say the least.
That said, it appears, if I'm interpreting your post correctly that you have a pre Model 12 made prior to 1957? As the S & W book doesn't break down the serial numbers by year of manufacture for the "C" prefixed "K" frames, that's as close as I can get. If it's a 6 shot cylinder with a alloy frame it's definitely a pre Model 12.0 -
Marc, You mention a tag that "says model 10" and "may be alloy frame". You later say "definite a aluminum frame steel cylinder and bbl".
If it has an aluminum frame its not a model 10 or pre-model 10 as they were both made with steel frames. You have a gun made in 1957, the year Smith began stamping model numbers. The model number would be 12 stamped on the crane if after the transition to model numbers, or no model number if prior to the transition.0 -
Hi,
The S&W Model 10 12 is the Airweight (aluminum alloy frame) version of the steel frame Model 12 10 (same gun).
As stated, the piece is a M&P- (Military and Police) style revolver, modeled after the steel frame revolver carried by air crewmen during WWII, at least as I understand it. These are K-Frame Smith & Wesson revolvers, with a cylinder capacity of 6 rounds of caliber .38 S&W Special ammunition. I wouldn't fire +P ammo in either the Airweight or steel framed versions of the gun.
Mine is unfired, was made in the 1950's, has a 4" barrel and rounded butt with diamond checkered walnut grips. My guess is that one like mine, 95% condition is worth maybe $400-$450, but that's a guess. I like the gun....made in the old days when all Smiths were hand assembled by company experts, rather than just assemblers. Yours probably was, too, considering its age.
EDIT--EDIT
Lefty (see below) I don't NEED to check my REFFERENCES!! However, it probably wouldn't hurt to check my memory bank[:)]. Thanks. However, I restate my opinon regarding NOT firing +P ammo in either version of the gun. I think that while they probably will not cause the guns to catastrophically fail, use of +P ammo WILL cause these light steel and alloy frame guns to "shoot loose" over time. I just wouldn't do it. If you want to keep a dozen rounds of +P around to keep in your gun and under the pillow for that possibilty they might be needed, then okay, but +P's for routine shooting, NO. They are too light weight in my opinion. Standard .38Special JHP or JSP ammo should be enough if the shooter does his/her part and getting the second round off accurately with standard ammo should take half the time as with +P's, especially with an alloy frame gun. Cheers! Wolf.0 -
Originally posted by Wolf.
Hi,
The S&W Model 10 is the Airweight (aluminum alloy frame) version of the steel frame Model 12 (same gun).
Wolf ....... You might want to check your references. The model 10 is the "steel" version and model 12 is called the airweight for good reason, it has the alloy frame. The "K" frame model 10 will handle +p .38 ammo with no problem, just like its close cousins the models 14 & 15.0 -
quote:Originally posted by Wolf.
I restate my opinon regarding NOT firing +P ammo in either version of the gun. I think that while they probably will not cause the guns to catastrophically fail, use of +P ammo WILL cause these light steel and alloy frame guns to "shoot loose" over time. I just wouldn't do it. If you want to keep a dozen rounds of +P around to keep in your gun and under the pillow for that possibilty they might be needed, then okay, but +P's for routine shooting, NO.
I second that opinion.
Its my understanding that all the early aluminum framed .38 guns are subject to frame stretching from being fired (that's Smith and Colt).
That's even with NORMAL AMMO.
The gun won't "blow up", but eventually the frame may distort to the point where the cylinder actually binds to the rear of the forcing cone or comes out of alignment with the bore axis.
My take on these older aluminum frame guns is basically don't shoot them PERIOD.
Yes, you can probably get away with shooting them forever with light reloads, but why?
Its OK to keep the gun loaded for emergency use, but if you want a "shooter" for putting lots of rounds downrange you're probably better off trading the gun for something else.
Edit: Just to be clear here, when I said "normal" ammo above, I meant ordinary use of NON +P ammo can stretch the guns frame. Using +P ammo will make the frame stretching happen that much faster.
I don't mean to imply that these guns are unsafe, or that they will blow up. I think the best way to think of this is that these guns just have a limited service life that's probably measured in the range of hundreds to thousands of rounds, rather than tens of thousands of rounds like most revolvers.
If you "carry it a lot and shoot it a little" as many do with these sorts of guns or just leave it in a drawer somewhere for emergency use, you'll probably be fine.0 -
quote:Originally posted by beantownshootah My take on these older aluminum frame guns is basically don't shoot them PERIOD.
Yes, you can probably get away with shooting them forever with light reloads, but why?
Its OK to keep the gun loaded for emergency use, but if you want a "shooter" for putting lots of rounds downrange you're probably better off trading the gun for something else.Agreed.
I have a very early S&W Airweight Chief Special that was carried by my father as his duty handgun. When I came into possession of this gun I test fired it with full wadcutter target loads, then cleaned it thoroughly both inside and out before putting it aside to pass down to my heirs.
However, it does stay loaded - for it's intended purpose.0 -
My wife had Model 10 airweight that she carried here on the farm in the summers. It was her "snake gun" with lite shot loads it should last forever. She recently moved to a J frame. She just liked the fit a bit better. 0 -
I have an early Model 37 Airweight bought new with steel cylinder and barrel.
In my scrapbook is a letter from Elmer Keith answering my questions
on loads.
He fired 500, 38-44 loads in the Model 37 he tested and gave it his blessings for strength.
I also have an aluminum cylinder made for the Chief that S&W says is OK for standard loads. It carries Glasers and makes for a very light outfit.
Cylinder bolt cuts on aluminum K-Frame cylinders are a weak point being directly over chambers. They should be respected with light loads.0
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