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B Square mounting on 870 Express?

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12 comments

  • mrbruce
    If it's the one that straddles the receiver all you need to do is remove the pins that hold the trigger guard in place and slip the mount on the receiver and use the provided screws to hold it in place. It's not the most solid way to mount a scope but it seems to work OK...
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  • 1KYDSTR
    Best off tapping and drilling the top of the reciever, but as mentioned, the saddle will work. There are a pair a plastic screws on the sides...try not to overtighten them as they will spread the mount and make it less linear with the reciever, as well as bowing it outwards and weakening the metal in the mount. They perform acceptable well when considering the range of shots will likely not be outside 100 yards.
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  • huntsman53
    I would recommend before mounting the "B" Square Mount, that you wipe down the shotgun's receiver with a good protectant. Once mounted, the area of the receiver underneath will not be accessible unless you remove it everytime you clean the gun and this should prevent any possible rust or corrosion. Also, when you mount the "B" Square Mount, do not overly tighten the screws as it can cause the bolt to bind in the receiver. If when tightened, the bolt binds, then back the screws off slightly and try the bolt again. Keep doing this until the bolt is working smoothly. Some Loctite on the end of the threads of the screws when installed should prevent them from backing-off.
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  • wpage
    Thanks for the tips. Any suggestion on how to best tap it in addition to using the standard mount. And where to best drill?
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  • 1KYDSTR
    I would reccomend getting a drill jig kit from Brownells (or retailer of choice) to drill the top of the reciever, like the factory drilled guns are. Four screws along the top and a standard Weaver or Picatinny rail and rings...and you have a secure, solid mount that can be removed, the barrel replaced and you can still go Pheasant hunting with it.
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  • huntsman53
    quote:Originally posted by wpage
    Thanks for the tips. Any suggestion on how to best tap it in addition to using the standard mount. And where to best drill?


    While many folks will and have advised on how to drill and tap a receiver, I don't recommend this! If the gun has any collectibilty potential, drilling and tapping the receiver will forever ruin the gun to Collectors. If a plain old shooter that will probably stay in he family for many years to come, then you are probably okay. Although somewhat unsightly and can be a real pain on guns with very short charging bolts/knobs, they don't require any drilling and tapping or other defacing of the gun!
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  • wpage
    Thanks for that. when mounting arrives will go with standard install. What type protection for the receiver should be used to protect covered metal.
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  • tsr1965
    Like has been mentioned, for the distance of the shots,that most likely will be taken, the saddle mount will work fine. I prefer the extruded aluminum saddle mounts, versus the stampedand welded steel ones, composite, or single side plate mounts.

    For most shotguns, I DO NOT reccommend drilling and tapping the reciever's. For the most part, the reciever's are too thin, and/or made out of an alloy. There is something about 12 gauge recoil that seems to tear the mount screws out of the threads on these thin reciever's. The absolute best way to mount a scope on a shotgun, is a cantilever, with a 1913 rail.

    Best
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  • huntsman53
    quote:Originally posted by wpage
    Thanks for that. when mounting arrives will go with standard install. What type protection for the receiver should be used to protect covered metal.


    Just a good coating of a really good Gun Oil should suffice but there are slicone based greases and other greases that will stay on longer and protect the metal underneath the mount. I am sure that others will know of some good one to use but probably one that is used marine applications will work best!
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  • mrbruce
    No problem at all with drilling and tapping a 870 Remington receiver, I've done hundreds of them over the past 40 years and never had one come off or be a problem ever..
    And it sure will not reduce the price of a 870 if they are drilled and tapped, as long as it's done the correct way..
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  • 1KYDSTR
    Thank you MrBruce! The 870 reciever is made of STEEL, so, as it is not an alloy Aluminum piece, it should accept four top drilled tap holes W/O issue. Also, it is an Express gun...these will likely never be collectible, even if NIB unless we are talking about 100 years down the line, in which case a Mossberg International 22 will be worth big bucks NIB too! A saddle mount works W/In its' limitations, a cantilever works a bit better, and the best way to mount a scope on a slug gun is DRILLED and TAPPED with a Weaver or 1913 rail.
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  • tsr1965
    quote:Originally posted by 1KYDSTR
    Thank you MrBruce! The 870 reciever is made of STEEL, so, as it is not an alloy Aluminum piece, it should accept four top drilled tap holes W/O issue. Also, it is an Express gun...these will likely never be collectible, even if NIB unless we are talking about 100 years down the line, in which case a Mossberg International 22 will be worth big bucks NIB too! A saddle mount works W/In its' limitations, a cantilever works a bit better, and the best way to mount a scope on a slug gun is DRILLED and TAPPED with a Weaver or 1913 rail.


    So is the Browning A-5 made fo STEEL...why don't you see D&T mounts on them? Shotgun recievers are notoriously thinner than rifle reciever's. It is hard to get enough thread bite for a secure mount. I am not saying it can't be done, but that it is just not the best way. Also, with the loose interchangable barrel fit, it is BEST to have the scope mounting system as part of the barrel, NOT the reciever for best accuracy on an 870.

    Best
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