N frame end shake
Hi everyone-I have been told that I need to adress "end shake" on a 27-2, and that it is "relatively easy" to accomplish, with some fairly simple tools. I want to know what end shake is, and what's involved. Thanks for your help, flapjack
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End shake is front to back play in the cylinder. If the cylinder has excessive movement it can be fixed with shims. Shims can be purchased from Brownells. Its probably best to have a gunsmith do the work. 0 -
endshake from what i understand is the play between the cylinder front bearing surface and the front of the cylinder yoke bearing surface.i believe that excessive endshake can alter inconsistently your cylinder to barrel gap and is not a good thing. i think the hard way, but how it has been done in the past, is to "stretch" the yoke to compensate for cylinder end shake.power custom makes small bearings (look like real small shims) that easily address this issue,without stretching,and are easy to install,requires disassembling your cylinder/ejector and installing the correct thickness bearing to achieve a desired amount of play between the yoke and cylinder front bearing surfaces.i try to keep it to a slight amount of play, a couple of thousandths or less, but not to tight it does not operate and not so loose that there is a bunch of slop.i am sure the revolver guru's on here will chime in soon -i am a automatic guy but i think i have sent you in the right direction- good luck 0 -
You've had a firing problem, correct? And you went to [someone] to ask about a fix, correct?
1. Is there a firing problem? If so, exactly what?
2. Is this 'someone' qualified to make the determination?
Before one step further, get another S&W, and notice the fore/aft play of the cylinder on that gun. Compare.
I won't be bending any parts to return the gun to blueprint specs. And although the shim will eliminate play, you will have excessive barrel gap.
Send it back to S&W for a tuneup, and they'll replace parts as needed. You may need a fresh turning/indexing ratchet to solve the problem, not a shim. The face of the recoil shield may be gouged (unlikely). The frame top area may have been stretched (also unlikely).
Best, Joe0 -
Thanks Joe and everyone. I do like the work that comes out of S&W. I appreciate the help. flapjack 0 -
You do not need a gunsmith to do this. It is simply a matter of unscrewing the front screw, removing the yoke/cylinder and installing the correct washer (they are very very thin). This video shows just how easy.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xmYzAVgDBkY
It is very easy to do. Do not pay a gunsmith money to do this. It took me about 3 minutes to do.
The hardest part is determining which thickness, but all you have to do is buy a kit that includes several sizes. Too thick and it will seize up. Too thin and the play will still be there. Buy a kit from brownells or midwayusa0 -
gknaka2-great help. I have the video in my favorites, thanks very much, flapjack 0
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