300 win mag
when looking for a Lee Clasic Loader for a 300 win mag all i can fine is the LEE LOADER 300 Weatherby Magnum does any one have the specs i need to know how much difference the cases are between the 2
0
-
I've got myself fixed on purchasing a rifle in 300 Win Mag, but can't decide on what to get. I can pick up a NIB Rem 700 Police for $660. Then I ran across the Sako TRG-42 (haven't found a price for it yet, but reckon it is really high). Of course, I could save a bundle by looking at the Rem 700 BDL or ADL. Or a Savage.
What do y'all think? Primary usage will be target shooting, 100-400 yards. Would also like to use this rifle for elk hunting if/when I get the chance. Is that a good price on the Rem 700 Police?0 -
Marty,
If you shot a lot of rounds repeatedly through the .300 Winchester, then you can eventually wear down the lands in the rifling! I have not heard of any real problems but the power in which the bullet transverses the barrel on the way out, does heat it up significantly. However, it is my belief that you would have to put quite a few rounds though the barrel, never letting it to cool down before any real wear to the lands would occur! Considering the cost of the ammo (unless you reload) and the recoil, it is fairly unlikely that most folks would have a problem. The problem that you have with the rifle not grouping as well as before, may be from fouling of the lands and grooves in the rifling. Try a very intense cleaning of the lands and grooves with a good solvent which dissolves copper and a new bore brush connected to the cleaning rod. After quite a few repeated runs through the barrel, then swab out the bore with cleaning patches. You should be able to tell how fouled the bore is from the first run through of the cleaning patch. You could also shake or tap out the debris from the bore brush and tell if the rifling is excessively fouled. Repeat the above until the bore brush and/or cleaning patch come out with no debris (or clean and like new, in the case of the cleaning patch). If you achieve a clean bore, then swab out the barrel with a few oiled cleaning patches, leaving some oil in the bore to dissovle the solvent and prevent rusting but make sure you swab it out with a clean cleaning patch before you shoot the rifle. If the above does not help, then you may want to consider purchasing a Bore Polishing Kit or have the bore polished by a professional.
Frank0 -
I clean the barrel every time I shoot it more than one or two times but I am willing to try any thing. 0 -
quote:Originally posted by Marty-10
I clean the barrel every time I shoot it more than one or two times but I am willing to try any thing.
I do the same with my' rifles but you will still get some fouling and it gets worse with time. In most cases, you will never see or detect any fouling but bad shot groups are usually the tell...tell sign!
Frank0 -
Hello marty-10
Random thoughts---Are the scope mounting screws tight? Are the action screws tight, and with correct torque. Have you changed anything, ammo, bullets, scope etc? Is this a new problem? If I remember correctly, the Sendero Bbl. is free floated. Is it touching the stock anywhere? Is the Bbl. channel clear? What are the groups doing, (stringing lt to rt, or vertically) Let us know what you find. HAWKSHAW0 -
more importantly,..HOW MANY ROUNDS THROUGH THE BARREL???
also, do you fire long strings on a HOT barrel?
if not a lot of rounds (like several thousand) and no long strings on a very hot (can't touch it) barrel, then you have other issues.
how do you clean the barrel?? coated rod?? bore guide?? from the receiver and not from the muzzle? have you dinged the crown when cleaning it??
what are you using as far as chemical?? how much dwell time do you allow??0 -
I shoot the 300WM regularly, and reload for longer-range shots. I have several rifles and 1 pistol chambered for this round; recoil is not an option.
You need to guess how many rounds you've shot through that Sendero of yours, and think about any handloads "from a friend" that you might have put in there too.
You see, it takes as few as 10,000 rds to erode the throat significantly on most Magnum chambers, with Weatherby's "venturi" necks taking less shots than usual.
The most important thing about shooting is that you can re-create the event, or you can prevent the event from ruining your shooting.
If nothing (shooter, gun, ammo, weather, etc.) changes, and the groups are starting to resemble shotgun patterns; the first thing I check is the muzzle (front) of the barrel. Any dings, chips, stray machine tool marks, or actual damage to the crown will destroy accuracy.
Next, I look at the bedding of the action to the stock; if it's loose AT ALL it will ruin repeatability of point of impact.
I then check the bore-just adding a few drops of Sweets to a patch will answer any copper fouling questions, and you can feel for any bulges or tight spots in the bore (BONUS!)
If there are any concerns about the rifling or the crap built-up inside; I run an oily patch with a smear of JB Bore Paste from chamber to muzzle several times in a smooth, steady motion. That will show (green) if you have any copper or (grey) lead in the bore. It will also remove it faster & easier than any other method.
Another advantage is that it smoothes the rough toolmarks from rifling the barrel, and makes it easier to clean next time.
I just wish they'd make a gunpowder/lead/copper-specific spray like Rain-X!
To remove any doubt, try all of the other suggestions before you run the JB stuff in there; it does remove a miniscule amount of metal along with polishing your bore.0 -
the old 'rule of thumb' is 40 lbs. of powder/ barrel so if you are loading 70 gns of ,say, 4831 you should 'expect' about 1,000 rds before accuracy goes 'south'. 0 -
I second JustC's answer.
I have shot 2-3 thousand rounds thru a 300 Win. Mag, and it was still a phneominal shooter. If you don't shoot it hot, or dirty, you have nothing to worry about, just like any other normal round.
You most likely will NEVER wear out the rifling, before your accuracy deterriorates from throat errosion, or muzzle crown wear(from cleaning rod abraision). Take it to your nearest competant gunsmith, that has a bore scope, and let him look at the throat, and crown.
Also, by chance, have you ever taken it out of the stock? If so, did you torque the action lug, and tang screws to about 50 inch pounds?
Also, you don't need to clean every two shots. Your rifle should be able to digest 20-30 rounds before cleaning. If you fire a clean barrel, then one round out of the fouled barrel, that will give you bad results too. Lots of benchrest shooters, shoot a fouling shot from a clean barrel, before they start their group.
Best0 -
Scope is not the problem and I have had two other people shoot the gun in the last week after I noticed the issue and we are all getting the same result witch is about a 10" variance in a straight line up and down.
I have never done anything to abrasive as far as cleaning just G96 gun treatment from the reciver end.0 -
Also no nicks or dings anywhere gun stays in a hard case when not in the safe. 0
Please sign in to leave a comment.
Comments
11 comments