Ohio Ordnance 1918 BAR
I just bought a 1918 BAR (semi, 30.06, Ohio Ordnance)and am looking for a takedown manual and feedback from any current owners as to what it likes and doesn't like, how much of a PIT fanny it may be to clean and some practical "hands on experience" using and keeping in good repair.
Any parts prone to breaking? Any websites or other sources? Numrich has lots of parts listed so I think I can get whatever's needed.
Any parts prone to breaking? Any websites or other sources? Numrich has lots of parts listed so I think I can get whatever's needed.
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You can get a manual directly from Ohio Ordnance: http://www.ohioordnanceworks.com/Books_Manuals.cat
They also list articles from various firearms magazines:
http://www.ohioordnanceworks.com/AboutUs/Articles/1918A3SLRArticles.page0 -
I have had my Ohio Ord BAR for about 8 yrs. All I shoot in it is military ball 30-06 and it shoots it just fine.
After removing the take down pins on the left side, everything comes out the bottom. Try to remember how the parts are orientated and their order of removal. You might take some digital pics as you take it apart to help in the re-assembly.
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Thanks, I'd heard Lake City ammo doesn't do well, is that correct? Otherwise I've been told Greek FMJ functions perfectly. I have about 500 rounds of handlods - 168 FMJ, use 44.0 of IMR 4064 and am hoping that will work the gun.0 -
I have shot both LC and Greek from my gun and they both worked just fine. Dont forget you have a 3 position gas regulator at the end of the gas tube. It can be dialed in for heavy and light loads to get optimum reliability. 0 -
Laredo Lefty has covered this quite well, so I'll only add a couple of points.
The action of the 1918 is not susceptible to the damage caused by hotter (modern) loads in the manner the Op-Rod on a Garand can be damaged as it is a linked action with pivot pins rather than the cam action between the Op-Rod and bolt on the Garand. As pointed out, however, the gas regulator can be restricted, which, IMO, would be a good idea when starting with your hand-loads or any modern ammo. Adjust it to minimum and only open it up if there are any cycling problems so as to minimize the loads on the linkage.
As also noted, field stripping is a breeze, and I would recommend immediately installing the 'idiot' marks at the take-down pins. I installed this upgrade the first time I took apart the rifle, and it has saved me no end of time cleaning the weapon.
Actually removing the bolt to enable removal of the firing pin is a bit tricky the first time. This was necessary on mine, as there was a very heavy grease on the firing pin when I received it, that restricted the movement of the firing pin, resulting in light primer strikes. It is a straight-forward removal and replacement of the spring clip, but the first time or two is a learning experience.
Mine has only seen milsurp ammo, LC, Greek, Korean and, IIRC, some from a Scandinavian country. All were 100%. The rifle is a great shooter, and 1.5" groups are very achievable if you can see that well. My best is a 1.25" group of five, which is way better than I can see, so I added a flyer at 2" to remain humble.
I hope you enjoy yours as much as I have enjoyed mine. It is a fairly expensive toy, but is a very true reproduction, is incredible solid, and does bring a small part or our history alive.
My little homage to the rifles that won the war in the Pacific:0 -
Thanks very much.
Took a while, but I think I get your drift - "idiot marks" on the BAR similar to the "idiot mark" on the 1911, yes? [;)]
I'm sure I'll have no trouble on those items.0 -
quote:Originally posted by dfletcher
Thanks very much.
Took a while, but I think I get your drift - "idiot marks" on the BAR similar to the "idiot mark" on the 1911, yes? [;)]
I'm sure I'll have no trouble on those items.
Those would be the marks, yes.[:)]0
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