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to loctite or not loctite bedding screws

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4 comments

  • JustC
    I don't do it. If you run a que-tip soaked in alcohol into the screw holes in the receiver, to remove any oils, you can torque the screws and they will not loosen up over time. The oil in the holes is what makes them get loose over time.
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  • dcs shooters
    Right around 35in.lbs. is what I use.
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  • 5mmgunguy
    No loctite You didn't tell us what kind of rifle you have. That said 35 in-pounds is good. I have seen pillared Remington 40X torqued to 60 in-pounds but they have 1/4 inch diameter screws.
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  • nononsense
    .22 L.R,

    The proper procedure for putting a barreled action into a stock:

    1) Get the bedding block and recoil lug area bedded stress-free.

    This is imperative for consistent and repeatable results from your rifle no matter what the advertising writers try to tell you. The bedding blocks are NOT machined to precisely match your action, they are an approximation with minimal contact points. The bedding provides a perfect matching surface for the action to seat itself into for the long run. Having a full contact bedding will let you tighten the action screws stress-free especially when you have pillars as well.

    If you remove the barreled action from your stock later for some reason after the bedding process is complete:

    2) Clean the screws and their mating holes with a grease/oil cutting liquid such as acetone or alcohol. Do NOT apply anything to the screws or their mating holes.

    3) Trying to find one absolute answer for a torque setting on an individual action without actually being there to feel it yourself is merely a guess. Fortunately, a reasonable guess will get you in the ballpark when you have had the action bedded stress-free from the start. This includes the concept of using pillar bedding also. There is little you can do to compress the aluminum pillars and the aluminum bedding block without getting super tough on the screws.

    Best.
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