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Re-bluing

FuMunDaChZ
What are good indicators that a gun has been re-blued. I've noticed that some of the Winchesters I've looked at on this site appear to be in to good of condition for their age.

Some have darker wood where it meets the metal parts of the receiver and barrel. Does the wood, or can it, absorb the bluing to make this area darker.

Thanks.
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Comments

10 comments

Date Votes
  • FuMunDaChZ
    I have a 1914 Paramount pistol I got in a trade for an old riding mower. Problem is he was going to re-blue it but never got around to it. Its sitting in the bare metal state trying its hardest not to rust. The gun fires fine but if I dont make sure I keep the whole thing oiled it will rust on me quickly.

    Would I be better off doing a slow rust blue or just cold bluing it. The cold bluing method seems to fit my lifestyle better since I cant keep an eye on it for weeks at a time to get the right color.

    Cold bluing seems faster but I wonder how well the finish will be on it. The gun isnt worth a lot of money especially since it was stripped of the original finish. Its a neat piece and I want to protect it. Any advice would be appreciated
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  • Bill DeShivs
    Cold blue offers no rust protection. Many actually increase the chance of rust.
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  • FuMunDaChZ
    so what can I do to protect her. she needs refinished but I am not sure how to go about it. This is my first antique firearm so I am at a loss.
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  • hijumperrs2
    short term,spray it down with some marvel mystery oil,put in a zip lock bag or better yet seal it in a vacuum food proceesor bag and look at and learn of your options.i hate rust!bluing is rust that gives oil a place to adhere and prevent further rust.
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  • FuMunDaChZ
    If I do go the cold bluing route what would be the best product to use. I have seen the birchwood casey kit and the brownells oxpho blue. are there any better products out there?
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  • tsr1965
    FuMunDaChZ,

    Hello, and welcome to the forums here on Gunbroker.com

    As previously stated, bluing is rust(oxidation). Just a color that is more pleasing to the eye, and more controled.

    There is not much difference between most of the cold bluing materials, and the hot bluing, other than the addition of heat. When submersed in a hot bluing tank, the heat opens the pores in the steel, allowing the blue to sink in better. The two cold bluing products you mention are good, and are even better if the steel you are using it on is heated. I do this by using hot water, and take it to the point of even boiling the water if I can. The water evaporates quickly from the steel, before you apply the bluing too. It of course, would be best if your pistol was stripped down of its component parts before you proceed.

    Best
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  • nononsense
    FuMunDaChZ,

    There is a significant difference between hot Caustic Bluing (commercial) and cold bluing by amateurs. The chemistry is completely different and the term Caustic is used for a reason. Get a tiny little splash the size of a pin head on your skin and you will be made instantly aware of the difference.

    No matter what your interest or 'lifestyle', commercial hot bluing will be the best solution for the long term. The pistol will have a consistent finish and color (based on material hardness and heat treat of course). If you do the strip down and prep and re-assembly after the fact, the finishing company will apply a lower cost to the project.

    If you choose not to afford the proper method then live at your own risk. Cold blue is not wear resistant and is difficult to get an even coloration across and between surfaces. You will still need to keep the piece clean and oiled since the finish won't aid in the protection. Yes, even Caustic blued firearms require oil as well but the wear factor is significantly increased.

    There have been some examples shown here on the forums with decent cold blue results. These are the exceptions not the norm.

    Best.
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  • beantownshootah
    What nononsense said.

    Cold bluing MIGHT give you a nice looking finish, if you work on it well, but its not particularly durable (to put it mildly) nor rust-resistant.

    Frankly even ordinary (hot/caustic) bluing isn't all that rust resistant, though its still a good bit better than no finish at all.

    Depending on what your budget is, and what exactly you want the gun to look like when you're done, and what you want to do with it, you might consider a modern non-blue finish, like hard chrome, epoxy-based (duracoat) or others.

    Most of these are more durable and more protective than ordinary hot bluing, though appearance isn't "traditional" and cost can be variable.
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  • CHEVELLE427
    i play around with cold blue on under $200 guns they come out OK sorta of a pain ,put it on wash it off over and over,soaking in oil over night does bring the blue out.

    had a SW mod 10-5 hot blued many many years ago and other then holster were still looks good.

    not many places do hot blue around here or gun smithing any longer.

    the old guy are dieing off and nobody is replacing them [:(]
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  • FuMunDaChZ
    I found a guy in Florida that does gun refinishing. Its probably going to cost more than the gun is worth but I am an incredibly impatient person and I don't want to mess it up. I have heard mixed results with re-bluing a firearm and I want it to look good. Plus this guy will take it down completely re-finish and put it back together (if needed).I think it will be my best bet for a good looking long lasting finish.
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