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Modifying a Mauser

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9 comments

  • ern98
    Welcome, as you say you are new to customizing Mausers/gunsmithing let me start by telling you that original condition milspec rifles have decent collector's value. Once they have been modified their value decreases to very little or less. So if your have a complete origianl 1909 M98 Agentine rifle you may well want to stop and reconsider changing it. Mauser 98 actions are not expensive or difficult to come by and may be a better way to get what you want.

    If you just have an action or the rifle has already been bubba'd then have at it. I made the choice to take on a similar project 25yrs back and have only rarely regretted it. The 1909 Agrentines have been prime custom rifle actions for decades now. The choice of 280rem for a cartridge will make for a easier conversion as you won't have to open the bolt face or the action rails for the magnum case dimensions. The standard milspec bolt face is fine for the 280rem as is.

    I have made numerous custom M98 rifle of varing qualities over the years. But, as the old quote observes "the only interesting rifles are accurate rifles". So I always start by accuratizing and customizing the receiver/action to fit my needs.

    1. Square up the front reciever face.
    2. Lap the bolt lugs into the reciever races for 80% contact or better
    3. Square up the bolt face.
    4. Precision grind off the stripper clip guides.
    5. Precision drill and tap for scope mounts.
    6. Correct the clip grind so the scope mount properly align.
    7. Permanently attach (solder) the rear scope mount to receiver.
    8. Modifly/install low swing bolt handle.
    9. Install aftermarket trigger and safety

    These are the basics of a custom Mauser 98 project. Luckily I have the technical background and machine tools so that this is practical for me to do. But, for the average joe this is not so. When you have to pay a riflesmith to do all this, well then the project cost goes up. This is why Rem M700 and Win M70 actions are often the prefered starting place of such projects.

    After the action is mated/completed to the barrel then it has to be stocked and bedded. If the bedding isn't right then accuracy and repeatability will suffer. Any piece of wood will work, kinda, as long as it is bedded right.

    The trigger guard is mostly ok as is. As long as you don't want to use long for caliber bullets. Then the box mag part will be short. The usual answer is to lengthen the box mag and regrind the feed ramp on the action.

    One last thing, the M98 firing pin and spring are fine as is. Yes you can replace them with lighter high tech faster items, but those are way down my list of things to do on such a project.

    I hope this general overview helps....
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  • Mobuck
    I would suggest you go with the 280 for your project. If you want a 300 win mag, buy a name brand current model. The magnum works at considerably higher chamber pressure than the original design and while it works most of the time, you don't want to be close to it if it doesn't work. The 280 is operating at lower pressure than many other modern cartridges and still is a great medium game round.
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  • sandwarrior
    schlueterdaniel,

    Just a suggestion. If the 1909 is original then sell it and take the money to use on your project. It is a well finished out rifle as it came from the factory. Therefore, along with the configuration of it's bottom metal, it has been a sought after action to customize on. Now that they are getting hard to find they bring a lot more money. And, you can customize another Mauser of like/same dimensions for a lot less.

    That said, this will require a re-barrel and some "massaging" of the feed rails. But, not much. To go to .300 WM you would need to re-barrel and "massage" the feed rails a bit more and open the bolt face. You don't need to change any other mechanics of the rifle.

    However, I would put a lock-time kit and better trigger on it.

    As far as stocks you have a wide range. One thing I've searched for and didn't find in time is the 'tactical' style made popular my McMillan. You can find aluminum block bedded stocks and good hunting rifles in many styles though. You can also get walnut stocks with aluminum bedding blocks. That does help with accuracy.

    -good luck with this project.
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  • jonk
    You'd presumably want to bend the bolt handle and modify to a more satisfying sporter contour as well to offer scope clearance. If you have access to and knowledge of machine tools and are comfortable with cutting, welding, grinding, headspacing, soldering, drilling, tapping, bedding, etc., it can be a rewarding effort. Just be aware that you will be turning a roughly $500 gun (if original, nice milsurp) into a $300 gun and spending additional money to do so. Your gun, your choice.

    I for instance don't have these skills. I DO have a barrel wrench and vise and headspace gauges. I've swapped out worn barrels for better condition ones. I also have a good drill press and would feel comfortable drilling and tapping, but the rest would be beyond me, so I have no experience past that- just know what's involved.

    Personally I'd use a less desirable, less costly Turk or Czech action, sell the Argentine to finance it, and call it a day. Or just buy a commercial action of some sort for the project.

    In general I'd agree with the others, the 280 would be the easier conversion, all things considered.
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  • cbyerly
    I am thoroughly confused about the question and answers. The bore size of a M1909 is actually .313. It cannot be rechambered to either of the ctgs mentioned. It is a rebarreling proposition all the way. The bolt face of the '09 is correct for the .280 case.
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  • schlueterdaniel
    The case with the rifle is as such: the barrel is well beyond repair as is the stock. It was all purchased for damn near free. the salvaging of the original quality is in a few words highly unlikely. I own a modified mauser now and love everything about it. I regularly shoot at the 800yd mark and have great consistancy. Problem is that the rifle was handed down to me, and is beyond beautiful, and I want to "modify" the new (old) to replicate the one that I already shoot. With a couple of upgrades to make it more of an everyday rifle that can take a bit more of a beating (something that is a long range hunting rifle. I have found that the work to be done is as hard as I make it. I have extensive access to tools and knowledge but the knowledge base is in modern weapons and not the old. Making the job easier would be going the route of a modern action but whats the fun in that? Everybody and their mother has a m700.... I enjoy out performing my co-workers with a unique and up-to-date rifle.
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  • asphalt cowboy
    You will find valuable information here.
    http://www.midwayusa.com/viewProduct/?productNumber=661999
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  • schlueterdaniel
    By the way, thanks for all the advice, I do appreciate it.
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  • sandwarrior
    quote:Originally posted by schlueterdaniel
    The case with the rifle is as such: the barrel is well beyond repair as is the stock. It was all purchased for damn near free. the salvaging of the original quality is in a few words highly unlikely. I own a modified mauser now and love everything about it. I regularly shoot at the 800yd mark and have great consistancy. Problem is that the rifle was handed down to me, and is beyond beautiful, and I want to "modify" the new (old) to replicate the one that I already shoot. With a couple of upgrades to make it more of an everyday rifle that can take a bit more of a beating (something that is a long range hunting rifle. I have found that the work to be done is as hard as I make it. I have extensive access to tools and knowledge but the knowledge base is in modern weapons and not the old. Making the job easier would be going the route of a modern action but whats the fun in that? Everybody and their mother has a m700.... I enjoy out performing my co-workers with a unique and up-to-date rifle.


    At this point I would just say "Go for it!". I myself have a number of 'upgraded' Mausers and love them. Once it's down the tubes the way you describe, you won't get any value anyways from a collector.
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