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S&W Victory

45er
Howdy,
Have a Victory model in L/L .38/200. One very beat-up ugly piece, shot to heck and back. With imported and other non-Brit markings, a shooter, period, in my opinion.

After reading all past posts, I'm pondering about having the cylinders bored out to .38 Special. Which I do reload, have a ton of componets for, & will keep 'em light 158gr. lead kerplunkin' loads. Am not at all interested in reloading the S&W.38, and is now too co$tly to buy.

Here's the questions: Any personal experience with: afore described, or similar, light reloads in Victory conversions? What can life expectancy be with new brass due to case splits? Extraction a problem? Accuracy--well, it isn't too good to begin with, so what the heck. Lastly, before I talk with one, any approximate idea what a 'smith would charge to ream the cylinders?

Any personal knowlege/advice on this project is appreciated ahead of time. I just want to shoot the darn thing!

45er
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Comments

10 comments

Date Votes
  • rufe-snow
    I had one years ago with the same problem. Picked up a used .38 Special cylinder and had it fitted to the Victory Model. Many years ago so I don't recall either the cost of the cylinder or what the gunsmith charged me to fit it.

    With all the legal liability problems that the gun repair portion of the firearms industry are beset with, doubtful if you will be able to get a legitimate gunsmith to rechamber it for you. Might be best to take it to a local machine shop rather then a gunsmith.
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  • 45er
    Rufe-snow,

    Thanks for the reply, and good idears.

    I may have a lead on both .38 Special cylinder and barrel, though no reply as yet?

    And do know a good machinest to ream, if that falls through. Last resort, though.

    In mean time, anyone know of any S&W parts dealers, besides Gunparts & Sarco, to do comparision shopping?

    45er
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  • rufe-snow
    quote:Originally posted by 45er
    Rufe-snow,

    Thanks for the reply, and good idears.

    I may have a lead on both .38 Special cylinder and barrel, though no reply as yet?





    I don't believe that you need a replacement barrel. The dimensions of the .38 Special and .38 S & W bullets are so close that the accuracy difference at normal handgun range would be minor, IMHO.
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  • beantownshootah
    quote:Originally posted by rufe-snow
    I don't believe that you need a replacement barrel. The dimensions of the .38 Special and .38 S & W bullets are so close that the accuracy difference at normal handgun range would be minor, IMHO.


    Also, for what its worth, I've heard that Smith used its regular .357 diameter .38 special barrels for its "lend-lease" Victory guns anyway.

    I wouldn't bother rebarreling this gun in any case, *UNLESS* AFTER the cylinder conversion accuracy was still unacceptable. You may be pleasantly surprised at the accuracy with ordinary .38 special ammo.

    If you're curious, you could always slug the bore to find out the actual diameter.



    Edit: I don't think it would, but even stipulating that the barrel did slug out to .361 (which would be spec for .38/200), I think you could still get away with loading slightly fatter bullets into ordinary .38 special cases if accuracy was unacceptable.

    By the way, where did you find a .38 special cylinder? I happen to have a converted Victory revolver myself, and I had been toying with the idea of fitting an ordinary .38 special cylinder, just that my gun has been nickeled, and it probably isn't cost effective to buy a cylinder, fit it, then nickel it.

    DSCN0393.jpg?t=1287625678
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  • 45er
    Beantown-- sent you an e-mail.

    Rufe & Beantown,

    Again, thank you both for replies, info, and ideas. An un-used as new, (except for acceptable storage blemishes), Victory cylinder in .38 Special has been found and bought!

    Though as previously described as a "beater/shooter" condition Victory model, I well would have reamed the .38-S&W cylinders to keep it a-shootin', regardless of questionable historical value-- whatever blasphamy that may have incurred? First time ever of pondering the idea, (with a bit of trepidation), of permament altering of any such arms, so now will not have to, as will have the original cylinder still in possesion.

    Will also follow advice of seeing how it shoots, accuracy wise, to later decide if or not to also change the barrel. This after working up various handloads to see what can be wringed out of it.

    A happy camper,
    45er
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  • Wolf.
    This is just my opinion and I'm not criticizing your plan, just offering another perspective:

    I don't know how much work exactly you are talking about having done to the gun. How much you think it's worth? $200 max? The amount of work you are talking about + parts could equal that pretty quick.

    I bought a Model 12 38Special (Airweight version of the Model 10) in new condition for $350 not long ago. That gun is approximately equivalent to the Victory model, or so I am led to believe.

    As far as loads go, I look at 158's as a fairly heavy slug, although they are the "standard" .38special bullet weight. You can get down to 92 grain, if you can find them, and I like to shoot a 125 grain .38special light load. LOTS of fun. Also, lightweight lead wadcutters are great for plinking, accurate for targets and shooting vermin.

    Oh yeah, life expectancy for brass with light loads is virtually indefinite......15-25 or more. You get the most splits when you use nickel plated brass, so avoid it. Seiler and Belot brass is scrap. I'd use American brass with familiar headstamps.

    Can't speak to extraction issues regarding that gun or similar in revamped condition.

    Accuracy should be good. Scrub the living &%$#*@ out of the bore with a good quality stiff nylon brush or a new brass brush you are willing to scrap using household ammonia or a good copper solvent. Then do the same with a good powder solvent and then again with JB Bore Paste or paste-style toothpaste. Run another solvent swab to clean up. That should improve accuracy about 100% if accuracy wasn't good already.

    It will be interesting to see how your project goes.
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  • 45er
    Howdy Wolf,
    Nope, not for a nano-second thought of being critized-- advice was asked for and appreciate your imput, being as why we're all here to learn and/or pass along experience. So, much thanks for responding.

    Cost:
    The Victory model in question was purchased moons ago for dirt cheap, even back then. Factor in the just purchased .38 Special cylinder, and still a bargin.
    Though still in question is co$t for a gunny-smith to swap in the new cylinder???? Haven't heard any guess-timates here on the forum??? Yet, thinking, (uh-oh), not at all exorbitant, as seems preety straight forward a task. Do it myself, yet am un-knowledgable about timing a wheel gun, most important. So for safety sake, pay where paying pays to have it correct the first time, and so be it.
    Wolf, also in regard to your comparable cost with your Airweight mentioned-- the State I live in, by not purchasing something else, I'll be saving $$'s from not having to pay sales tax, nor a dross fee, and since my license expired, nor fees for taking another dumb-butt multiple choice test before able to purchase another handgun so the State will feel confident I won't shoot myself in the foot. All that can add up closer than not to, say, $75 smackers, depending upon price of another revolver alone.
    Another reason is as you said, an interesting project-- half the fun is right there. Last reason is I can self-justify darn near anything I set my mind to, haha.

    As per my 1st post:
    1) I questioned the case life span/neck splitting/extraction using a reamed out .38S&W cylinder. That issue will not come into play with the now aquired .38Special cylinder.
    2) Reloading... stated as having a ton of .38/357 componets. And hah, the 158gr lead semi-wads make up most of that weight, to be sure! Is why I asked about that grain particular. Too, since time began it's been my favorite bullet to load for casual shootin' in both a Colt Police Positive .38 Special, and a Smith M-19 .357--(which music to ears ker-thunks metal rams at a hundred yrd's all day long if on rare occasion I do my part). So, plan is use what componets I already have, working up loads for accuracy test with the new life to be given with this ol' Victory model. Yet, will keep in mind, Wolf, your mention of lighter grain slugs. (Hey, I am an old dog, but may learn a new trick or two, eh?)

    3) Barrel. Inside, it looks not bad, best part of the piece-- clean with good lands considering it's obvious usage. But yes, will give it a good going over. Been awhile since shot this piece, yet know I never did all you suggest with such deligence with it.

    45er
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  • Wolf.
    Yeah, I always HEARD about ultra-cleaning a barrel and then polishing it scrupulously with JB and Kroil pentrating oil ("The Oil That Creeps")[:)], but I never thought much about it until I decided to use an old gun that was never very accurate to peg ground squirrels with. I kept missing them, but had this JB stuff that I won at a shoot with some other goodies and decided to try it.

    I went through that process and the change in accuracy was not just amazing, but (to me)miraculous! The gun knocks the eyes out of a gnat now. But, after a hundred rounds or so, it starts letting me know it needs another good cleaning and polishing.
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  • gesshots
    Keep the .38-200 cylinder & get a used .38spec. cylinder from Gun Parts Corporation [Numrich], etal. If the gun is in the sad condition you described - it needs retiming anyway, plus you still retain the original for collector value.

    e-gunparts.com
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  • 45er
    gesshot,

    Appreciate your reply. Yet,as we are limited to ten replies per topic, please read entire post before replying, for all you advised on has just about been addressed....

    1) As stated, a new Victory model .38 Special cylinder has already been purchased. Also, before this new cylinder was found I wrote, "anyone know of any S&W parts dealers, besides Gunparts & Sarco, to do comparision shopping?". So, that base...Gunparts, too, has already been covered.

    2) Also as already stated, yes, will surely keep the unaltered original 38/200 cylinder-- make a good paper weight, me thinks!

    3) Timing, as you mentioned, was previosly been addressed, as reason I am still asking approximate co$t for a 'smith to do the change out with the new cylinder, as I am a no-knothing about it. Any experience on that question, co$t wise, gesshot???

    And now that this topic has reached it's 10 reply limit, I'll open up a new topic exclusive for #3, the cylinder change.

    Best,
    45er
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