Mauser bolt action help needed pt 2
Ok, makes sense. This one is definitely a cock on close then. Would that pinpoint it to being a specific model or specific time frame of manufacture? Not that it makes a difference, now I'm just curious. Dad said it is an FN mauser made in belgium.... I don't have it in front of me at the moment or I'd post a serial number if I could find one and some pics
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Hello MIDNIGHT PAINT BALLER. The main thing you and all of us need to do is find out what Mauser you Have . One reasons is the story keeps Changing In your first Post you stated it was a Model 98 .However Now it seems it is another model The Model 92-96 are different on the way they cock then the model 98. The 92-96 cock on closing and model 98 cocks on opening. Then in this latest post you state it is an FN mauser. FN as far as I know NEVER made any model 92-96 so we have a bunch of Conflicting statements. I strongly suggest BEFORE you order any replacement parts you either take a bunch of pictures from all angles of the receiver/action or barring that you go to the rifles for sale on the auction side of Gunbroker first search on each different model Mauser action 92-96 and then do the same thing on Model 98 Mauser . Then search on FN model 98 dont worry about the stock barrel scope ETC on all of these guns pay attention only to the receiver / action pay attention to location of the safety and the bolt handle if you cant find one that looks like your rifle then the only way we can help is PICTURES .WE need to get the FACTS right before anything we say is valid. 0 -
At this point we really do need pics. I've never encountered a 98 that was cock on close, but that doesn't mean there aren't a lot of them around.[:D]
I'm wondering if it might be a 95?
Story sharing time:
I had a timney trigger on my Arisaka and it broke. (They'll do that when you take the action out of the stock and drop it on a concrete floor.) I also had a second non-functional Arisaka Timney trigger and the folks at the factory said, "Send both broken units in, and we'll make 1 good working trigger for you." Sounded like a good deal, but after about 6 weeks of not hearing, I got concerned. Called, and my triggers were nowhere to be found. Finally, after almost half a year, I got a phone call. Someone was cleaning out the desk of a departed employee and found my trigger parts in a paper sack. Eventually I got back a working trigger so maybe I shouldn't be so hard on them. (Except that I did have to return a new trigger I bought for a 98 Mauser when I discovered a crack in the housing.
Like I said, this was several years ago, and at the moment I do have 2 Timneys, one in my .257 Arisaka and a second in a Mk.I Springfield '06 and both have served me well.0 -
This has all gotten me so excited. [:D] Dad says it's a FN made Mauser 98. Whether or not he is correct is anybodys guess. When the bolt is closed, the sear catches on the trigger and is held back as the bolt handle goes down moving the bolt a little further forward until it is fully locked. The gun itself is currently at a friends house (where we are working on bedding the action) When we took the action out of the stock, we found the broken trigger which started this whole mess [B)]. I'll be heading to this friends house tomorrow to load ammo for shooting this weekend. I'm charging the camera now just to make sure and I'll take the best pics I can get. Again, I appreciate everybodys help so far and I'm honestly not trying to tease you. [}:)] On the bright side, dad is the one who purchased installed the trigger and is certain that it's a Timney. I just got off the phone with their customer service and if he's correct, they will replace it for free. I guess I'll have to wait until tomorrow to get some answers for myself (and for you guys) 0 -
Part of the issue may be that people are mistaking terminology.
A 98 bolt is commonly said to 'cock on opening' but it is more true to say that it cocks part of the way on opening and part of the way on closing.
Whereas earlier actions cock more or less entirely on closing.
Simple question. Is there a third locking lug on the back of the bolt body just ahead of the shroud? If so, 98.0 -
quote:Originally posted by jonk
Simple question. Is there a third locking lug on the back of the bolt body just ahead of the shroud? If so, 98.
This is what Jonk would be referring to. The safety lug is on the bottom of the bolt body, just forward of the handle.
If it is a Large Ring 98 it will have a "step" where the front ring meets the receiver wall.
If it is a Small ring such as 93-96 it will have no "step".
If it is indeed a Small ring it may still be a 98 thought as there are also Small ring 98's.
If your rifle is a Small ring "and" has the safety lug the FN confusion may be that it is a Mexican. That last pic is of my 1910 Mex. Fabrica de'Nationale (I think I spelled that correctly. If not someone will surely correct me)
The Belgian FN is Fabrique Nationale.
IIRC there are also commercial Belgian Small ring 98's.0 -
midnightrunpaintballer,
There are a number of "Cock-on-close" Model 98 Mauser's. Two of which are my 1910 Mexican (1933) and my 647 Husqvarna (1949). Both are small ring and both are based off the FN Version of the '98.
Specifically to this problem, you need to find out which one you have. Because there are differences in the distances/relationship between pins and sere. Obviously, as they interact differently when you work their actions. By finding out which trigger you need, you order one once from either Browning or Midway, or any other place that might have them. Then you can resume shooting your rifle. It might help to take some pics with a 6" machinists rule up against those points.
-good luck0 -
quote:Originally posted by sandwarrior
midnightrunpaintballer,
There are a number of "Cock-on-close" Model 98 Mauser's. Two of which are my 1910 Mexican (1933) and my 647 Husqvarna (1949). Both are small ring and both are based off the FN Version of the '98.
Specifically to this problem, you need to find out which one you have. Because there are differences in the distances/relationship between pins and sere. Obviously, as they interact differently when you work their actions. By finding out which trigger you need, you order one once from either Browning or Midway, or any other place that might have them. Then you can resume shooting your rifle. It might help to take some pics with a 6" machinists rule up against those points.
-good luck
That can be done. Pics will be taken tonight and uploaded when I get home. Camera is already in my pocket! [:D]
Ok, so far, here's what I (think) I know. It appears to be Mexican, not Belgian. The bolt handle has been modified at some point. The broken trigger was in fact NOT a Timney. And so far, dad has been wrong, wrong, and then wrong again. [B)] Here's the pics I took. Hopefully, they'll help. I'm going to start a pt 3 thread as this one is also nearing lock and I really want to learn about this rifle!
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The "Fabricas de Armas La Coruna is the dead give-away. It is a Spanish Mauser. Not Mexican
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I can't tell by the pics but it appears to be a large ring. And, the good thing is you have the third lug (safety thing only, it doesn't engage unless the front lugs fail.) Still I'm thinking it's a later model. But, Spanish Mausers are hard to tell as they 're-worked' some of them a number of times.0 -
spanish/mexican..... when you were expecting belgian, it doesn't much matter. But at least you narrowed it down. The trigger was also and only marked "spain" which leads me to believe it's the factory trigger. 0
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