Milled RPK Wood Furniture?
I am wanting to either refinish or replace the milled wood furniture on an Arsenal RPK7 and get rid of that awful yellow finish and prefer a reddish brown finish color.
Unfortunately I haven't seen any milled RPK wood furniture available and all of the ones that are available seem to be for stamped receiver RPK rifles...
Does anyone know of any milled RPK wood furniture stock sets available or should I hold out for a milled RPK wood furniture stock set from the GB auction side or just refinish it and if I refinish it how difficult of a job would that be?
Regards
Edit:
Could a stamped receiver RPK wood buttstock possibly be able to be modified so that it would fit properly into a milled RPK receiver; as I believe that the rest of the parts should fit either a stamped or milled receiver?
Unfortunately I haven't seen any milled RPK wood furniture available and all of the ones that are available seem to be for stamped receiver RPK rifles...
Does anyone know of any milled RPK wood furniture stock sets available or should I hold out for a milled RPK wood furniture stock set from the GB auction side or just refinish it and if I refinish it how difficult of a job would that be?
Regards
Edit:
Could a stamped receiver RPK wood buttstock possibly be able to be modified so that it would fit properly into a milled RPK receiver; as I believe that the rest of the parts should fit either a stamped or milled receiver?
0
-
I'd find a 2nd set. Original stocks with gun will help keep it's value.
Maybe keep an eye out here on GB and at Copes Distributing, K-Var, and Centerfire Systems. I've found stamped rifle stocks at all those places. Look under parts kits, stock sets, and surplus.
You might also search for Milled Hungarian or Milled Yugo RPK kits.
Google is pulling up this auction:
www.gunbroker.com/Auction/ViewItem.aspx?Item=186981787
If it's sold you might contact the seller to see if he has more.0 -
I didn't make it clear that I wanted an RPK clubfoot wood buttstock, but could consider the straight wood buttstock as well I suppose.
I was also wondering if I could alter a stamped receiver wood RPK stock probably just the wood buttstock to alter I believe, to fit a milled RPK receiver as well?
If I decided to refinish the awful yellow Arsenal colored wood stock set to a reddish brown traditional color finish how could I do that, is it difficult to do, how long would it take and what would I need to accomplish that?
Edit:
I just decided to sand it with fine grain sand paper really well as opposed to trying to replace it since there doesn't seem to be any available. It doesn't look like I can modify a RPK stamped receiver stock to fit either and since this stock is fitted to the rifle I thought that would be the best alternative.
After its sanded I will then apply several coats of a dark reddish brown color wood finish to resemble the standard RPK wood stock finish and so far sanding the old yellow finish off has been alot easier than I thought it to be and it sanded to natural wood in no time.
Any expert suggestions as to the process that I should use for staining and which products are best, such as a stain then tung oil, etc, I thought that a dark reddish brown would be a standard color for an RPK?
Thanks.0 -
I've refinished 4 sets of AK stocks on my 4 Romanian home builds.
Easiest way I have found to refinish them is by stripping them with Citris strip overnight.
Wipe off the old finish and goo left from the citris strip. Let dry overnight. Hand sand with 100 grit, then 200 grit sand paper.
Choose a minwax stain - I used a Cherry. Lumber shops usually have a better selection of small sample size containers of stain.
Lightly stain. Wipe it on with a clean white t-shirt rag. Quickly wipe it off with another white t-shirt rag. Leave that stain on without wiping it off - it will turn the stock almost black.
Let dry overnight. Then fix the stain with a spray on polyurethane gloss finish. You can lightly sand any rough edges that come up between coats of polyurethane.
Bottom build rifle has refinished wood. Middle is unfinished.
Not the best pick but the laminate of the Romanian stock set comes out beautifully. Lots of greens & reds in the wood.
There are other ways of doing it but I have found this to be easiest.
Edit: There is a 10 post limit before these threads auto lock themselves.
We must've picked those coat rack up somewhere for free as they were in the basement of the old place. Worked pretty good and was sturdy enough.
You might want to start a new thread on refinishing rifle stocks. The gunsmith (forget his name) that writes in Shotgun News detailed that technique in one of his AK build or M1 stock refinishing articles. I'm not an expert smith or wood worker but have learned by doing.
I tried refinishing one set of romy stocks in green stain to try to match those green Ruger laminate stocks. Butstock came out awesomely. Upper and lower forearms - not so hot. Color just didn't match.
Also have another set done the same as above that I've been meaning to put on my Sar 1. But misplaced all the metal accoutrements in our move.
quote:Originally posted by StoBtruppen
quote:Originally posted by iwannausername
Might want to check with Ironwood Designs to see if their stuff will fit... or if they could make you something...Yeah, I looked at their stuff and didn't see anything but I hear that they are spendy however their work looks really nice.
Thanks.
I tried the spray-on Citristrip(make sure that you shake it well as per directions for at least 2 minutes before spraying on) and left it on overnight checking on it periodically(smell was very tolerable and smells like citrus).
The spray-on Citristrip worked great and you could see it reacting with the finish and then wiped off easily with paper towels like a soft candle wax, now the wood is rough to the touch and looks more natural, thanks.
Should I clean it further with de-natured alcohol and then let dry overnight before sanding?
Couldn't hurt. You want it good and dry before you sand. An extra night wouldn't hurt.
Might try just going with a light 200 grit sand paper to knock down any remaining finish and take the edge off. The Romanian wood was pretty rough stuff. Lots of dings and dents. Imagine that Arsenal wood is like brand new. Don't over do the sanding. You want to just ruff it up to take the stain.
By the way - I'm sure you already did this but...
there are some easy tricks to getting the upper handguard and butstock off. For the upper hand guard put the squared section (rear portion) of the gas tube in a padded vice. From there you ought to be able to twist it off the gas tube.
For the butstock, remove the screws holding stock on. Either mount rifle in a padded vice and tap all 4 sides of the stock with a mallet to get it to wiggle off. Or fill up a laundry bag on a carpet floor and beat all 4 sides of the stock on the bag. Stock will wiggle off.
Combining my posts so this doesn't auto lock.
I stained mine by wiping it on with a rag, then quicky wiping it off. Buffed it in with the rag.
Thinking if you leave it on there real thick it's going to come out pretty dark. Might just go over it with a rag some for the next coat. Rub it all in.
Post up some pictures. Let's take a look.
Edit 9/22- Before I got a digital camera I would use either a disposable or a 35 mm camera to take pictures then have Walmart or Walgreens put em on a disc for me. Those I could load up on my computer.
What color did you decide to go with?0 -
Might want to check with Ironwood Designs to see if their stuff will fit... or if they could make you something... 0 -
quote:Originally posted by iwannausername
Might want to check with Ironwood Designs to see if their stuff will fit... or if they could make you something...Yeah, I looked at their stuff and didn't see anything but I hear that they are spendy however their work looks really nice.
Thanks.
Very cool, thanks for the advice.
Say that isn't that rifle rack there just 2 wooden coat racks turned on there sides, good idea and shouldn't hurt the rifles either?
I tried the spray-on Citristrip(make sure that you shake it well as per directions for at least 2 minutes before spraying on) and left it on overnight checking on it periodically(smell was very tolerable and smells like citrus).
The spray-on Citristrip worked great and you could see it reacting with the finish and then wiped off easily with paper towels like a soft candle wax, now the wood is rough to the touch and looks more natural, thanks.
Should I clean it further with de-natured alcohol and then let dry overnight before sanding?
Okay, the denatured etoh cleaned up good and now it will sit and dry overnight. Tomorrow I will check if its dry then light sand and wipe down good then use a pre-stain conditioner and allow that to dry overnight and then stain and let that dry overnight as well.
Everything is dis-assembled except for the tube and an end cap however they are taped really well down to the edge.
Okay, lightly sanded the dry and natural looking wood stock furniture and then applied a coat of pre-stain conditioner with a rag and then as per directions applied the first coat of stain with a brush going with the grain and such.
It is now drying and will have to sit for at least 6 hours before another coat of stain can be applied; however you can see that a brush was used to apply the stain in the form of long brush strokes.
Will the brush strokes fade after buffing with the 0000 steel wool and then applying another coat of stain?
And should I just leave the brush each time or clean it with cleaner after each use?
Combining posts;
Okay will do, when I first followed the directions on the can I noticed the brush trails right off of course and then tried a rag but it seemed to just wipe it off more than apply it. I then went back to a brush, but I will try a rag again and just buff it all in...
Wow didn't realize what all went into this however its a great experience and thanks for taking the time to help.0 -
Hmm, seems to look okay except for some small areas where the finish apparently ran slightly after sitting over time.
The worst thing however is that I see the brush streaks being that I don't believe that the stock is laminated.
How do you fix this as I already have about 4 coats on now and have tried brushes and rags, or will this come of with light sanding from high grit sand paper and buffing from 0000 steel wool perhaps?
Edit:
Actually I need to get a camera as I don't have one, but I am going to re-strip it all and try again anyway and this time try a non-polyurethane stain as that other stuff was like a shellac or something and if that doesn't work then I will have a professional refinish it.
Okay, stripped everything off again and cleaned all the residue off and used the denatured etoh to wipe it all down and let it dry and then used the pre-stain and then the stain and that looks a heck of alot better now, thanks.
Edit:
A dark antique walnut stain and looks pretty good too like it was made that way and you can really see the lines in the wood too and then will rub gun oil into the wood and have always had good luck with that.
Now I just have to spray black enamel on some of the metal parts that lost their color due to the finish strip and denatured etoh and will just clean of any oil and such from the metal then newspaper wrap and tape before spraying.
And it should be okay though, but those metal pieces just wouldn't come off for anything and I would risk causing damage if I forced them so I will just do it that way then.0 -
Should have posted back earlier, but everything turned out just fine, the wood came out pretty dark but seems to get lighter over time and the metal looks good as well.
However I was just wondering if I want to keep darkening the wood periodically, can I use stain on the wood while its all together or could the stain effect the paint or bluing of the metal?
Thanks.0
Please sign in to leave a comment.
Comments
7 comments