AR Buffer Tube And Loctite
Building a 'short buffer tubed' AR type for my nephew. It's the 'collapsible stock' tube length. Called the carbine length? Not my question.
Unlike the full-size AR setup, I'll have to use a spring retainer plate, and a spanner nut (along with a carbine recoil buffer, and recoil spring).
Now, my question..Original spec calls for the castle-nut (spanner nut) to be staked to the retainer. Can I achieve the same reliability by loc-titing the spanner nut threads, rather than staking? Thanks, Joe
Unlike the full-size AR setup, I'll have to use a spring retainer plate, and a spanner nut (along with a carbine recoil buffer, and recoil spring).
Now, my question..Original spec calls for the castle-nut (spanner nut) to be staked to the retainer. Can I achieve the same reliability by loc-titing the spanner nut threads, rather than staking? Thanks, Joe
0
-
You should be able to. Make sure it is a removable kind.
FWIW I have never had a non staked nut come loose if it is properly tight.
Yes either carbine length or rifle length.0 -
Colt stakes the hell out of them and I consider it to be a major PITA.
[img][/img]
[img][/img]
I've assembled plenty of lowers and never staked any of them or used thread lockers. I honestly think it is over kill but if you must use something try green lock tight since it can be removed.0 -
Thanks, fellas!
Green Loctite it is, and MILSPEC tube and innards! Best, Joe0 -
quote:Originally posted by givette
Thanks, fellas!
Green Loctite it is, and MILSPEC tube and innards! Best, Joe
I would use blue loctite, 242. You will never get green loctite 290 or similar off.0 -
quote:Originally posted by shoff14
quote:Originally posted by givette
Thanks, fellas!
Green Loctite it is, and MILSPEC tube and innards! Best, Joe
I would use blue loctite, 242. You will never get green loctite 290 or similar off.
The 290 is medium strength, and and will remove nicely.
Joe,
Personally, I would forget the Loctite, and just stake it in a couple spots with a small chisel.
Best0 -
I've never staked the lock nut and never had one come loose. I don't use my rifles for a club or prybar or fall on them often so much less stress on that joint. 0 -
quote:Originally posted by tsr1965
quote:Originally posted by shoff14
quote:Originally posted by givette
Thanks, fellas!
Green Loctite it is, and MILSPEC tube and innards! Best, Joe
I would use blue loctite, 242. You will never get green loctite 290 or similar off.
The 290 is medium strength, and and will remove nicely.
Joe,
Personally, I would forget the Loctite, and just stake it in a couple spots with a small chisel.
Best
290 requires heat for removal.0 -
The receiver extension ('buffer tube') retains the buffer retainer/spring and it doesn't have to be completely removed for this assembly to either become dislodged or remain depressed and allow the buffer to move into the upper receiver. Even a partial turn of the extension may be enough for either of these conditions to occur, both of which would completely shut down the rifle.
Screwing the extension in and loctiting to maintain it's proper depth might be be okay on a hobby level rifle but is unacceptable on a rifle that's used for serious purposes.
Notice that our military requires that the castle nut be staked and all the more reputable manufacturers also follow this policy. This precludes even the possibility of it rotating.
Each to his own, but I don't see the downside of staking as outweighing those that exist when using only threadlocking compund0 -
quote:Originally posted by shoff14
quote:Originally posted by tsr1965
quote:Originally posted by shoff14
quote:Originally posted by givette
Thanks, fellas!
Green Loctite it is, and MILSPEC tube and innards! Best, Joe
I would use blue loctite, 242. You will never get green loctite 290 or similar off.
The 290 is medium strength, and and will remove nicely.
Joe,
Personally, I would forget the Loctite, and just stake it in a couple spots with a small chisel.
Best
290 requires heat for removal.
Not really. I use the 290 exclusively for scope bases. Even though it does set hard, it breaks loose before stripping the allen head, if your using a wrench that fits correctly.
But I agree more with Txs, as it only requires a dremel with a cutting disk to negate any stake on the castle nut.
Best0 -
I regard all of you as good, decent folks for taking the time to respond to my querie (dilemma?).
Very much appreciated, here. Joe0
Please sign in to leave a comment.
Comments
10 comments