S & W model 10...
Hello,
I'm looking at a S & W model 10 38 special for sale at a local dealer. Serial # is S 903xxx, which means it should be from 1945-48 according to the good folks at S & W. I like how it feels, but I don't want to overpay, so I'd like to get an idea as to the value. List price is $379, but the seller has indicated that the price isn't necissarily firm. Everything moves nice and smooth, and it apperas to have been well kept. The bluing is in pretty good shape, just a little wear around the cylinder; as one would expect if it was fired much. The rifling is still crisp, and I didn't notice any signs of corrosion in the barrel. I'd like to get an older model like this one if I pick one up; should I look into it further or wait for a better deal?
Second question, can it handle +P ammunition?
I'm looking at a S & W model 10 38 special for sale at a local dealer. Serial # is S 903xxx, which means it should be from 1945-48 according to the good folks at S & W. I like how it feels, but I don't want to overpay, so I'd like to get an idea as to the value. List price is $379, but the seller has indicated that the price isn't necissarily firm. Everything moves nice and smooth, and it apperas to have been well kept. The bluing is in pretty good shape, just a little wear around the cylinder; as one would expect if it was fired much. The rifling is still crisp, and I didn't notice any signs of corrosion in the barrel. I'd like to get an older model like this one if I pick one up; should I look into it further or wait for a better deal?
Second question, can it handle +P ammunition?
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The gun you are looking at is a "Post War Military & Police", not a Model 10. The Model 10 was not introduced until 1957.
Too bad you didn't have your digital camera with you; your description wasn't detailed enough for us to "picture" the gun.
If the gun looks as good as this one:
http://www.gunbroker.com/Auction/ViewItem.aspx?Item=169373177
I'd jump on it at the asking price. Otherwise, well, it would depend....
Neal0 -
The grip is in almost identical shape. The bluing isn't quite as nice, but it's in better shape than my H & R 922. (below) 
Sorry about the image quality, my camera pretty much sucks.0 -
Can it handle +P ammo?
Yes, its OK to occasioinally load the gun with +P ammo for defensive use or practice, with the understanding that +P ammo causes more stress on the gun, and over time with LOTS of rounds, the gun may develop problems with timing or "end-shake" (ie cylinder front/back play). If you want to fire thousands of +P power rounds, go find yourself a .357 magnum gun instead.
As to value, you'll need some good pictures for that. Condition is basically everything here. Sight unseen $380 seems a bit high to me for a somewhat worn M&P .38, but as Neal suggested, its a good price if the gun is in excellent shape (and especially if it has the original grips, box and paperwork).
Also, FYI, while a post-war Smith certainly ought to be an excellent gun, I think if you are interested in a "shooter" for recreational use and/or home defense you can probably find a .357 magnum model 19 in excellent shape for roughly the same money or even a bit less.
The Model 19 is basically an upgraded model 10 with adjustable sights and a stronger action. Shooting nothing but +P rounds, your trigger finger would probably wear out before the gun does.
With that one, I'd practice with .38s, occasionally with .357 magnum rounds, and keep the gun loaded for "serious" use with .357s.0 -
Thats a decent price for a M&P. You can check to see if the grips came with the gun as they usually have the serial number penciled on them on the inside. $300 to $350 would be a better price, especially if the grips aren't the original ones and theres no original box(Older S&W's command a higher price with those things). While the subject of +p has been debated on this forum ad nauseum, and S&W didn't specifically state the use of +p would damage the gun or wouldn't, I would use it sparingly. The N Frame .38/44's could handle hotter loads all day long and not bat an eye--the K frame will last a lot longer if you stick to standard pressure loads. +p is only about 10% hotter than standard pressure but it still puts 10% more stress than really needed on a older gun like that. I bought a Pre Model 14 a while back that was made in 1952 and they are very accurate guns--pick it up! 0 -
Thanks for the info all. I knew the power difference between +P and standard loads, but I didn't know if the gun would handle it. (I probably see more brass and loaded rounds before lunch than most people see in a year) I was planning on using standard loads in general, but sometimes all I can come across is +P. I'll see if I can borrow a decent camera and get a few quality pictures of it. 0
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