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Trim to length .357

ColtPython357
I have a lot of brass from .357 factory ammo, the sizes vary in length from 1.267 - 1.291.
All the reloading books state a trim to length of either 1.280, 1.285 or 1.290. Most of the brass I have is 1.270 - 1.280.
Can I trim most of them all to 1.270 & if I do, where can I find load to use as well as the c.o.l.
I have win296 powder, wspm primers & win sthp bullets
Looking for suggestions
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Comments

8 comments

Date Votes
  • Mort4570
    unless you are after super accuracy,I don't see the need to trim if using jacketed bullets .Most folks never trim pistol brass,some do.
    I'd load a few and test them against each other,then worry about trimming.Since some of them are 'short', I might not go to the max load using the powder you stated,prolly go 10 per cent less.

    now me,I use cast bulles with a crimp groove,so I like them closer to one length so the crimp rolls in uniformly.My ammo is blasting ammo,so I will allow about .005 variance.
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  • Hawk Carse
    Trim to 1.270"
    Use handbook loads.
    Seat real revolver bullets to the crimp groove and take the OAL as it comes.
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  • bpost
    Pistol brass tends to shorten as you shoot it. I have fired somewhere around 150,000 rounds of pistol handloads. I have NEVER trimmed a straight walled pistol case.
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  • CapnMidnight
    What bpost said, I've been loading for about 40 years and have never trimmed a straight wall pistol case.
    W.D.
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  • tsr1965
    Well, I don't totally disagree with some of the others, but I will agree to disagree.

    First off, for heavy revolver loads, you need a crimp for consistant burn. In order to ger a consint good crimp, the case has to be the same length as the rest. Lest, you adjust the die for each and every round you are loading. As suggested, this also aids to accuracy, but it also aids to keep the bullet in the case during recoil, and not jar itself loose, slide forward, and create a stoppage. This need is not commonly found in revolvers smaller than 44 Remington Magnum.

    Also, high volume reloaders, who use many different lots of the same, and/or different manufacturer made casings will find it needed to trim the case to maintain a good crimp.

    This all maintains consistancy of your loads. Ask any top shooter on the action match stage, revolver or semi-automatic, and see what they say.

    Best
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  • airmung
    Revolver reloading dies use a roll crimp, and for it to work consistently, the cases need to be pretty close to each other in length. The Lee factory crimp die is much more tolerant of case length variations and seems to apply a more uniform crimp. Crimp your reloads with the Lee FCD die as a separate operation and you'll never look back. No more trimming and no more fiddling with the crimp die.
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  • gunnut505
    I load .357 exclusively on a Dillon 550 progressive, so I ALWAYS trim to the same length when I start a batch for uniformity. You folks that never trimmed any straight walled pistol case are doing what you want; I do mine the SAFE way. I never exceed published data, and I never trim shorter than the book says.
    I will however, trim really short cases to 38Special length, and then only load 38 Special loads in them.
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  • CS8161
    Been reloading 25 years, never trimmed any handgun cases, there is no need to. Some of my brass has been reloaded dozens of times, still no need to trim!
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