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stainless question

sriker
Is it possible to get a stainless pistol to look like a bright stainless and if so....how?
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10 comments

Date Votes
  • sriker
    In the 1950's, I didn't see any stainless weapons. I was told that this was due to stainless parts and gears tending to bind and stick to each other. Then in the 1960s, a surface treatment (iodine based?) was developed which allowed stainless weapons to function.

    My question is how thick is the treated surface? Can enough wear be put on a stainless steel weapon so that the parts start to bind?
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  • nmyers
    Sure. Start smoothing with #0 steel wool, & work up to #0000.

    Mask the areas you don't want bright (like the top between the sights).

    Study the gun carefully before you begin. Revolvers are usually more difficult than autos because you have more corners that difficult to get into without complete disassembly.

    Neal

    EDIT: If bits of steel wool can become imbedded in the surface of a stainless steel gun & rust, certainly someone can post a photograph of this.
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  • duckhunter
    Just take a look at the Ruger Vaquero. Bright polish stainless. Just takes time.
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  • beantownshootah
    quote:Originally posted by sriker
    Is it possible to get a stainless pistol to look like a bright stainless and if so....how?


    Its labor-intensive, but sure its possible.

    638buff.jpg

    You polish the gun the same way you'd do anything else, carefully and using progressively finer polishing compounds (or papers/steel wool). Buffing wheel helps tremendously, but you have to know what you're doing with one.

    IMO, this is great for a display gun, but probably not the best finish for a "working" gun.

    A mirror-like finish reflects light like, well, a mirror. That can cause unwanted glare, and isn't particularly "tactical". Also, polished stainless isn't all that scratch-resistant.
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  • rufe-snow
    quote:Originally posted by dano
    A polished gun can also detract from it's value.

    Once you polish it, there ain't no going back. [xx(]




    All you have to do to get rid of the mirror finish, is to vapor blast it with plastic pellets. A even gray mat finish is the result.
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  • RCrosby
    If you gotta have it, and have the time and skill to do it right, have at it. I wouldn't, however, do it with the thought that a vapor bead blast would get you back to square one if you change your mind. I would look great, but you'd still have a gun that had been polished, then un-polished, and the value would be certain to go south in the process.
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  • beantownshootah
    quote:Originally posted by RCrosby
    If you gotta have it, and have the time and skill to do it right, have at it. I wouldn't, however, do it with the thought that a vapor bead blast would get you back to square one if you change your mind. I would look great, but you'd still have a gun that had been polished, then un-polished, and the value would be certain to go south in the process.

    That would be true if you were starting with a new gun or one otherwise in excellent shape, but it largely depends on what it looked like when you started with it.

    If you're dealing (for example) with one of those scratched and beat-up police surplus/trade-in revolvers in stainless, you're probably only going to INCREASE the value if you managed to put a quality mirror finish on it. . .(though probably not by enough to justify the hours of your time in doing it and the materials expense).

    If you were to then change your mind and put a matte finish back on the gun, I really don't think it would decrease the value from where you started in what is effectively a "beater" or "shooter" gun.
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  • MIKE WISKEY
    "Sure. Start smoothing with #0 steel wool, & work up to #0000.".............only if you want it to turn brown, bits of steel will be imbedded in the stainles and will rust.
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  • pip5255
    I agree with Mike, never use steel wool to polish stainless unless you want it to stain from the embedded steel from the steel wool that will rust.
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  • Riomouse911
    And you can go from polished to matte. I bead-blasted a polished M686+ 4" and gave it an all-over matte finish. It's now non reflective, looks great, no scratches and yet there are no markings used or damaged corner/edge areas either.

    But if the polished nickel look does it for you, go slow and extra carefully or you'll round corners, leave directional scratches, and obscure markings.
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