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S&W revolver id please

garyd
I am not familiar with S&W revolvers. Will someone please id for me please.

CIMG0995.jpg
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9 comments

Date Votes
  • beantownshootah
    Edit: Hold on, I take everything below back.

    The fat cylinder on your gun suggests instead that you have a model 1917 revolver, which is a military gun chambered in .45ACP.

    SmithWessonModel1917.jpg

    Originals were blued steel, meaning that your nickel gun was either refinished, or wasn't military issue.

    Again, it would be helpful for a definitive identification if you could post all the markings from the gun (barrel, inside cylinder, on the butt) etc.




    Edit
    As Rufe said, .44 could work too.
    What is written on the barrel?
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  • garyd
    Its not a 45ACP. I think its a 44. The cylinder and the frame is serial numbered and a proof mark is present on both. There is an "S24" under the proof mark on the cylinder. The serial number on the frame and cylinder do not match. No markings on the butt. Last patent date on the barrel is Sept 14, 1909.
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  • rufe-snow
    From the patent date on the barrel, most probably it's a 44 Second Model Hand Ejector. From the appearance of the grips and lack of monogram on frame, it's been polished and plated.

    You might do some research on the "no markings on the butt" issue. I'm not altogether sure, but believe that's where they were serial numbered.
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  • givette
    Notice Bean's photo.

    His ejector rod 'snugs against' the boss underneath the barrel. Yours does not.

    Also notice that the ejector rod center pin on your gun is protruding from the front of the ejector rod. Rod is too short.

    Conclusion: Barrel swap, or ejector rod too short (cylinder swap).

    Best, Joe
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  • garyd
    Thanks for the input. I have no use for this pistol and want to sell it, but I need to know what I have first. The pistol does have mechanical issues as givette noted.

    No markings on the barrel as to caliber.
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  • BUCKAWHO
    It also may be a foreign made knockoff. BT
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  • cussedemgun
    garyd,

    You say "and a proof mark is present on both"

    The proof mark will be the clue to the country of origin. Please post a picture of the proof marks. We are only guessing so far with the limited info. supplied but it all seems to point to a foreign copy "Smyth & Western".

    Jim
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  • garyd
    I said proof mark, but it appears to be the same marking as on a WWI vintage colt 1911. Eagles head? The marking along with a serial number is on the frame, cylinder and underside of the barrel
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  • rufe-snow
    quote:Originally posted by garyd
    I said proof mark, but it appears to be the same marking as on a WWI vintage colt 1911. Eagles head? The marking along with a serial number is on the frame, cylinder and underside of the barrel



    It don't hardly make sense that proof being on a .44 cylinder, unless some gunsmith in the long distant past reamed and relined the chambers to shoot .44 special. As far as serial numbers are concerned if your frame was originally off a Model 1917, it definitely should have the serial number on the butt. Because of the mechanical, cosmetic & legal issues, not likely you will be able to get much out of it. IMHO, I would reconsider even trying to sell it as it might cause you way more in the way of trouble, then you could possibly get out of it.
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