S&W hand ejector
I have a S&W Hand Ejector made in 1920 that has S/N 92462 on the butt, barrel, and cylinder, but has S/N 68966 on the hinge or crane and the frame under the rear of the barrel. Why 2 S/Ns? Thanks.
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Tomorrow I'm going to look at a 2nd model 1926 hand ejector in .44 special. Is there anything I need to look for? Is the serial number on the frame, barrel and cylinder? Should I remove the grips? If so, what would I be looking for? Seller is asking $800/trade. I could use all the words of wisdom I can get. Thanks in advance.
Bob0 -
Look at al the numbers. On the crane, cylinder, grips.
All should be numbered with the last three of the serial.0 -
The 6 1/2" barrel is most common; shorter lengths are worth a substantial premium IF ORIGINAL.
Evaluate the finish carefully. Prices rise exponentially the closer you get to 100%. For $800, I would want it at least 90%, with no signs of mutilation.
It probably has a lanyard ring; if not, look for signs of its removal.
Neal0 -
If the grips are the original ones the serial number will be marked in pencil on the inside of them. $800 is a good price on a .44 HE. At $800 it MIGHT be a reblue or renickel gun so either ask or look very carefully. If it's a renickle many times bubbafied jobs renickled the hammer & trigger too which should be color case. 0 -
Thanks for the help. It was a re-blue. The back strap had some metal removed just behind the forcing cone. Didn't look safe to me. I passed. Numbers did match. Poor re-blue. [:(] 0 -
Thanks for the help. It was a re-blue. The back strap had some metal removed just behind the forcing cone. Didn't look safe to me. I passed. Numbers did match. Poor re-blue. [:(] 0 -
You meant to say topstrap, correct? Now, to specifics..
The 'removal' item of your post is a factory original item. My 1913 vintage 'New Century' .44 Triple Lock has a little of the topstrap removed just behind the barrel shank (which, of course, contains the forcing cone!)
Cosmetics aside, and unless you find something else that looks like amateur work, you may wish to re-think the deal.
Just say'n. Best, Joe0 -
Yes, I meant to say Topstrap. More information would be needed on the area with the removed metal. Why?, when? and why again?. The re-blue really wasn't that good for an $800 gun. ripple looking flat surface that were no longer flat. More re-blued pits than anyone would like to see. Smith & Wesson didn't do the re-blue. No marks were left. 0 -
In that condition no more than $450 to $500 at the very most and thats pushing it. You could have Ford's redo the finish correctly and even remark it but then you will have to spend at least another $350 to do all that--you could just take your $800 and keep looking for one in a little worn but nice condition either on GB or a gunshow.
Here's a nice one on GB now http://www.gunbroker.com/Auction/ViewItem.aspx?Item=177503465
The metal removed on the topstrap is factory--it's called a Fouling Cup and was common on some older guns. It's function was a place for powder fouling to go so it wouldn't tie up the gun. Mainly for Black Powder fouling but certainly would help if fouled by any powder. Over on the S&W forum there's a entire thread with pictures showing the fouling cup so don't let that discourage you from buying an older gun.0 -
Yesterday, I was "dreaming" on GB, and hit the 1902 Colt autos, which I hadn't done for awhile. I was amazed at the # of near mint examples of these. The ones that someone has cared for correctly for nearly a hundred years. Also, stopped in at a friend's new shop location, and he had a mint Colt Woodsman in the case. Just beautiful!
It is really a pleasure to see these works of the machinist's art in such wonderful shape. I guess what I'm saying, is keep looking until you find the pistol you want, in the condition you're looking for. They are out there, no matter how rare.0
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