Anyone with knowledge about Enfield Mk II?
I am reloading the 38 S&W for both a S&W Hand Ejector and an Enfield Mk II in 38/200 or 380 Mk II (all the same caliber, effectively). The reloading manuals caution that the listed loads are for solid frame guns only, and should not be used in hinged, top-break revolvers. I assume they specifically refer to the guns from the late 19th century such as the very early S&Ws, H&Rs, Hopkins & Allen guns, Iver Johnsons, etc.
Would the Enfield be lumped in with these oldtimers as far as strength is concerned or is the Enfield more on par with the more modern designs like the S&W? (Realizing the Enfield should not be considered as strong as the S&W.) The Mk II is a relatively modern gun and was designed with smokeless powder in mind but should it be fed only mild loads?


Would the Enfield be lumped in with these oldtimers as far as strength is concerned or is the Enfield more on par with the more modern designs like the S&W? (Realizing the Enfield should not be considered as strong as the S&W.) The Mk II is a relatively modern gun and was designed with smokeless powder in mind but should it be fed only mild loads?


0
-
I load for several different 38 S&Ws. I have MKII Enfield, S&W safety hammerless 2nd model and a Regulation police. I also have a couple Of Iver Johnsons. I think the Enfield will handle heavier loads and use to shoot them in my Enfield when it was the only 38 S&W I had 45 years ago. Now I just keep light loads such as a 148 HBWC with 1.7gr of Trail Boss. I don't have any real need for hot loads and it keeps me from having to be careful about what ammo I am using. I have not found a source of the correct .361" bullets, so I have loaded the HBWC .358" for years. These don't do well with hotter loads. I seat them about 2/3s of the way into the case. 0 -
Back when I used to have one, I maesured the diameter of remington
.38 S&w new (1995) ammo and it was identical to their .38 special ammo.
I said gee I wonder what if and ran fired brass through a rcbs .38/.375 sizer, then expander die and then said what now? (did not have .38 s&w dies).
9mm seater die works just fine.
Speer loading data 158 lsw, bullseye powder finally got bored with it and traded it off after many hundreds of reloads and NO probs.
Top end of load data after working up for safety of course0 -
If you are looking for the .361 diameter bullets, please try Suler's Choice Bullets or Mt Baldy Bullets. The Mt Baldy are .3595 while the Suler's are .3605. The Suler's do not have a crimp ring but it doesn't seem to matter, the bullets don't move under recoil. 0 -
No problemo.
You will note that the British wartime revolver has more meat around the charge-holes (chambers). Mettalurgy is similar, as the Enfield is not of WWI vintage.
Can't speak of the loads of the .38/200 FMJ loadings, but I have Lyman catalogue numbers for the .38 S&W 141/150/158gr bullet moulds if you are interested. The moulds will also work with 38 Colt, and .380 MK II.
With the 200gr FMJ, (original loading-you plan to use FMJ??) best to cast the barrel on the S&W Terrier, to see if the grooves match bullet diameter.
(Of course, if using lead, (#2 alloy is recommended), then you can simply swage to the groove diameter.)
Both grooves should be close, but an old reloaders' manual says the diameter can run between .354 to .360 depending on the gun. My guess is the Enfield will be of a larger bore groove diameter than the Terrier.
Most all Brit. revolver groove diameters have been on the 'sloppy' side. Note that I'm not including the US type bore diameter, which measures land-to-land. The Brits' were quite generous when rifling, and the lands may be considerably more pronounced than on the Terrier..therefore the groove diameter should be of prime concern. Best, Joe0
Please sign in to leave a comment.
Comments
4 comments