Rimfire Revolvers - Extraction Question
I've had several S&W revolvers that once shot, were just hard as heck to get the chambers cleared. An early 60's M17, three M18s (dash 2,3,4) all were just awful. I've sold them all off....also had a couple M650s with the same issues...they have also been sold. A 34-1 was pretty good, but if it got dirty, it would become problematic.
I have one old 1920's model K22 Outdoorsman that does not have an extraction problem regardless of ammunition...I always thought the older S&Ws had tighter chambers...oh well.
My Bearcats and Single-Six are never difficult to extract...regardless of ammo...however one Bearcat seems to have a single chamber that makes me work at extraction.
However, my Dan Wesson 722-VH will shoot/extract all day with Federal Auto-Match....but a switch to Wolf or Fiochii (sp?) and a mallet is needed to get the cylinder cleared!....of course the Wolf is the most accurate ammo in this gun! Ugh!
Any ideas...
It's been a challenge finding a rimfire revolver that did not require serious effort to get the chambers cleared.
I have one old 1920's model K22 Outdoorsman that does not have an extraction problem regardless of ammunition...I always thought the older S&Ws had tighter chambers...oh well.
My Bearcats and Single-Six are never difficult to extract...regardless of ammo...however one Bearcat seems to have a single chamber that makes me work at extraction.
However, my Dan Wesson 722-VH will shoot/extract all day with Federal Auto-Match....but a switch to Wolf or Fiochii (sp?) and a mallet is needed to get the cylinder cleared!....of course the Wolf is the most accurate ammo in this gun! Ugh!
Any ideas...
It's been a challenge finding a rimfire revolver that did not require serious effort to get the chambers cleared.
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I've had a number of rimfire revolvers with the same problem. Some are better then others in this respect. I've found a short cleaning rod with .25 caliber bronze bore brush is the best thing to clean the chambers with. At least after firing two cylinders, depending on the ammo. The Mexican HV Super Maximum is about the worse for fouling. 0 -
Would it work and be worth it to polish the chambers? 0 -
I put 0000 steel wool on an old brush and polished the cylinder in my 22 and not problems since. 0 -
If you experience stiff extraction (revolvers), with the first rounds inserted or even unfired then I would consider polishing to smooth the chambers. I used a compound to polish glass.
If extraction problems develop as you begin to fire more rounds and gets progressively worst then I would suspect blow-by gases. Yhis is evident by examining the cases.
In this situation the casing which must swell to chamber size during firing is unable to make a complete seal. This could be due to excessive chamber size or the casing material can not accomplish the seal fast enough nor quick enough. The powder residue will vary on type of powder and cause adhesion depending on its chemical make up. This you already know. Polishing can remove metal and thus increase the oversize problem.
Type of ammo used can help eliminate or increase the problem. Make sure you extractor rod or device is not worn and binding. I have had some success with (semi-auto) .22's by taking a very small amount of powdered graphite and sort of "shake and bake" the graphite in a bag with about 500 rounds. Use very little graphite, about 1/2 teaspoon per 500 rounds and shake it up good. You can expect to get a slight black graphite on your fingers during loading but it does the job.0 -
25 cal brush and then use a tight patch in the CHAMBER ONLY with some JB Bore cleaner on the patch Go in and out NOT spinning around on the chambers. don't let the patch come out of the cylinder front just flush to the front. This will smooth up the chambers but not damage them. The cases are sticking to the machining very small groves that run cross-ways to the chamber you just need a slicker finish not making it larger.
EDIT I do not suggest any GRIT wet or dry sand paper[V] I do not suggest SPINNING anything in the chamber [V] YOU DO NOT want to remove metal and you do not want any grooves no matter how small running 90 degrees to the BORE you want polish to be front to back as slick as possible.0 -
thumbs up on the 25 cal brush, then mine get a 30 cal mop 0 -
First, clean the cylinder with a dry patch before shooting starts. Then, shoot standard velocity ammo in the revolver. Save the HV stuff for your rifle.
Also, your cylinder can be smoothed with some 600-grit emery paper and a slotted cleaning rod turned in a variable speed drill, on slow speed. This will smooth any roughness in the cylinder bores. BT0 -
Great suggestions!!! MANY thanks. I learn more here than on any other forum!
I'm off to get a .25 Cal brush and 30 cal mop...I have some polish on hand.
I'm glad to have all the advice!!
Bob0 -
you should be fine without the polish. get short handles for the brush and mop. an extra set for the range bag is good too. 0 -
Extractors hanging in 22 revolvers is very common, as you've already figured out. If you find that none of the above methods helps, get a strip of 120 emery paper, push the extractor fully out, cup the emery paper around the outside edge of the extractor with your hand and spin the cylinder to clean off all the machining burrs on the edge of the extractor. I've had to do this on colts, smiths, etc. and it's never failed to fix that problem. 0
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