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Trouble with repointing checkering

djh860
I've repointed the checkering on 3 other guns so I'm starting to get the hang of it but now I'm having trouble. The wood is crumbling and tearing. I am not getting clean cuts. When I brush off my work area there are many hanging parts. Its hard to cut a nice clean sharp edge.

I was wondering could I oil the wood by putting a light coat of the stain I plan to use? I'm working with a 20 lpi dembart cutting tool. Should I use my tiny curved file instead?

The history; This was a beat up , hunted hard browning I got cheap. The checkering was worn and some was crushed or broken. It had several coats of poly on it and I had to put stripper on it many times. In the end I used stripeez as citrus strip and safety strip would not work.
I'm not good enough to sand it all off and start over. I really want to try to work with what I have. Any advice?
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Comments

9 comments

Date Votes
  • 25wcf
    I don't have personal experience with this, but I have heard that flooding the soft wood with crazy glue will harden it so your tool will get a clean bite and the checkering will be long-lasting. Sounded to me like it would work.
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  • rhmc24
    Here is what works for me. Mix a little batch of clear epoxy glue (not the 5 minute) and add enough alcohol to make kind of a loose varnish. Brushed on as much as it would soak up and blotted off the rest. Dried overnight it worked like firm walnut.

    Try it on cardboard beforehand to learn what it is like. I buy the 90% rubbing alcohol at drug store.
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  • Hawkshaw
    djh860---Again, I've repointed many dozens of stocks. In my experience, the standard checkering tools just do not work well in a repoint situation. All I now use is the checkering files I get from Brownells. I use the 60 degree style, as I prefer sharp diamonds. I would NOT oil the checkering, as I think it will further soften the wood. Is the wood totally dry from the stripping process? Are you using a cradle to hold the stock? It makes it sooooo much easier. I have used spray clear lacquer, and shellac with minimal improvement. I kind of like rhmc24's idea. One last possibility if you want to go to this trouble. Warm the stock checkered area say to 100+ degrees, then apply the thinned epoxy and immediately put the stock in a cool place. The theory being that the air in the pores of the wood expand when warm, and when cooled the air will contract, thereby "sucking" the epoxy deeper in to the wood grain.
    Mask off the wood around the checkered area to keep the epoxy off the rest of the stock. WHAT A PAIN!!! Let us know---HAWKSHAW
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  • MIKE WISKEY
    I'LL SUGGEST LAQUER THINNER AND EPOXY LIKE rmc24 SAID
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  • rwfixem
    You need to use the "bent file/s" to point up checkering. I have thinned acra glass liquid to stiffen wood fibers but it takes a lot longer to "cut" through.
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  • Alan Rushing
    djh860

    Thanks for the question. The question had not made it to the top of my list yet, but I had been wondering how to proceed.

    To everyone that gave feedback and suggestions, thanks from over here also. I have learned something new and interesting.

    That is one less question for me to throw into the forum!
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  • rhmc24
    Some checkering repair info:
    http://gunsmiths.com/articledetail.php?id=66
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  • GunBuff
    Soft wood is a problem but you don't want to add anything that would seal the pannel you are checkering.The reason that you are tearing up the checking is that the teeth are catching the grain.That said,get a Dem_Bart C1 cutter from brownells,install it in the tool in reverse so that it can't catch the grain and you will be fine.
    Thats what I have found works in my 20 years of stockmaking.
    Let me know how you make out.
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  • djh860
    I do have a C-1 I'll try that.

    quote:Originally posted by GunBuff
    Soft wood is a problem but you don't want to add anything that would seal the pannel you are checkering.The reason that you are tearing up the checking is that the teeth are catching the grain.That said,get a Dem_Bart C1 cutter from brownells,install it in the tool in reverse so that it can't catch the grain and you will be fine.
    Thats what I have found works in my 20 years of stockmaking.
    Let me know how you make out.
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