FAL Locking shoulder
I just bought a dsa receiver and a front end from dsa as well for an OSW build. I havent torqued the barrel on yet, but once I do, is there a "" general "" locking shoulder that will work, that i can tap in with headspacing? I know I shouldnt be trying to go around the proper way, but im trying to see if I can at least narrow it down to one or two possible sizes without having to buy the headspace guage. I have my tax stamp for it but the local gunsmith doesnt want to do it for me, even if i stay there while he does it. Does any one have any idea what "" standard "" DSA's come with? Im pretty sure they arent all different. If they are then they're machines need some tweaking! HAHA. Thanks for the help to all!!
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buy the headspace guage and do it right. 0 -
You will need the headspace gauge and a few locking shoulders, OR you will need to screw it in as much as possible, get the front sight timed properly, and measure to take a closer guesstimate of what ls you need.
There is probably a howto on falfiles.com in the forums there0 -
I watched Marc Krebs of Krebs Custom build one on a DSA receiver in about 1 hour. He had bought 4 STG 58 kits and worked out a deal to trade one of the kits to DSA for one of their receivers.
He had to take the shoulder of the barrel down (on his mill) to get it thread in correctly to the receiver. Head spacing was something else too - multiple locking shoulders as I recall.
I've built 4 AK's at home. I don't think I would attempt a FAL build after watching him. I don't have the tools he has.
His one caution to me was -- make sure you grease the barrel threads before attemtping to screw the barrel on. Don't play around with an ungreased barrel and receiver.
quote:Originally posted by richbug
No grease required on the barrel threads. You could use it if you wanted, but it will seep out and mess up your refinish job.
How exactly do you use a mill to modify a barrel shoulder? Any DSA I have built has timed up properly without any machining.
The current DSA's are using LS's on the shorter end of the scale, I have seen .248-.254", everyone gets their panties in a bunch when it comes to HS. You have a .004" range to get it right and safe. Bigger space will be more reliable, tighter will likely be more accurate, and brass will last longer.
You don't need multiple LS's, you need a go gage, a No Go gage, and something to use as gauge pins. Drill bit shanks can be used as pins.
My terminology may be off but this was a horizontal (mill?) that spun the barrel to alow him to take some material off the the barrel where the threads met the barrel. I don't believe he took the material off the threads.0 -
quote:Originally posted by drobs
I watched Marc Krebs of Krebs Custom build one on a DSA receiver in about 1 hour. He had bought 4 STG 58 kits and worked out a deal to trade one of the kits to DSA for one of their receivers.
He had to take the shoulder of the barrel down (on his mill) to get it thread in correctly to the receiver. Head spacing was something else too - multiple locking shoulders as I recall.
I've built 4 AK's at home. I don't think I would attempt a FAL build after watching him. I don't have the tools he has.
His one caution to me was -- make sure you grease the barrel threads before attemtping to screw the barrel on. Don't play around with an ungreased barrel and receiver.
No grease required on the barrel threads. You could use it if you wanted, but it will seep out and mess up your refinish job.
How exactly do you use a mill to modify a barrel shoulder? Any DSA I have built has timed up properly without any machining.
The current DSA's are using LS's on the shorter end of the scale, I have seen .248-.254", everyone gets their panties in a bunch when it comes to HS. You have a .004" range to get it right and safe. Bigger space will be more reliable, tighter will likely be more accurate, and brass will last longer.
You don't need multiple LS's, you need a go gage, a No Go gage, and something to use as gauge pins. Drill bit shanks can be used as pins.0 -
So if I was going to use drill bits to do this..., the diameter of the bit would be the same size as the locking shoulder that I would need? 0 -
email sent. 0 -
quote:Originally posted by tmcbp
So if I was going to use drill bits to do this..., the diameter of the bit would be the same size as the locking shoulder that I would need?
Yes, if the shank(round part of the bit, when inserted into the LS hole, closes on a go, but not a no-go), you are golden and that is the size LS you need.
Any precision round piece of steel could be used.
With a current DSA, I would start with a 1/4", .250"0 -
quote:Originally posted by drobs
My terminology may be off but this was a horizontal (mill?) that spun the barrel to allow him to take some material off the the barrel where the threads met the barrel. I don't believe he took the material off the threads.
Umm ya, it's just off a tad. That piece of machinary is called a lathe.
Lathe, work turns, cutter moves in 2 directions. Used for round work pieces.
Mill, work is stationary clamped to a table that moves in 2 directions, cutter turns. Looks like a super heavy duty drill press. Used for the other than round work pieces.0 -
There are not only different sizes of locking shoulders (around 14) there are four (4) different diameters. The different diameters come into play to adjust for the actual size of the hole. Not only for different mfg but to allow for wear. I have most all sizes, plus specials including ones to be ground to save some combinations of barrels and receivers. All brand new factory parts. The Australian manual has the best instructions for picking the correct locking shoulder diameter and size, original manual $20.00, this is the manual TAPCO copied and used to sell a reprint. 0
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