Browning 22 Takedown Question
Hello:
Looking at one of these. Trying to figure out the date code on this one. Its serial is 04640T72. Barrel says Belgium, but I am trying to get the serial figured out. Couldn't find what I was looking for. I was also trying to get an idea of what it might be worth. Don't want to pay too too much.
The item is listed at http://www.gunbroker.com/Auction/ViewItem.aspx?Item=167032713
Thanks guys.
Looking at one of these. Trying to figure out the date code on this one. Its serial is 04640T72. Barrel says Belgium, but I am trying to get the serial figured out. Couldn't find what I was looking for. I was also trying to get an idea of what it might be worth. Don't want to pay too too much.
The item is listed at http://www.gunbroker.com/Auction/ViewItem.aspx?Item=167032713
Thanks guys.
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OK, I lied. Actually it's an Interarms/Norinco clone.
I have no problems with the fit of the rifle. Everything looks like it should. My other 22 is a Remington 241. So I am fairly familiar with the basic design.
The barrel is nice and tight to the receiver. When the breach block slides forward, the round has a tendency to jam with the bullet part way in the barrel. I have to take the thumb slide on the bottom a push forward to go the rest of the way and get the bullet into the barrel.
The first thing I did was disassemble, clean, and oil. I also worked to get the barrel tight. The thumb wheel was new to me from the 241, but the barrel is good and snug.
Any ideas why the bullet jams when sliding into the barrel?0 -
It is a NORINCO> 0 -
Yeah, I refuse to accept that answer yet.
I could have accepted that answer with the Remington 241. The plunger and set screw just before the bullet went into the barrel was causing a jam, but the problem was found there. ...of course I paid plenty for a new set screw on eabay.0 -
Well just guessing, maybe the bolt's return spring is a touch weak? Or maybe the bolt face that is pushing the brass case head is rough and instead of the case head sliding it's catching?
How does the lifter work off the feed tube - is it snapping up quick enough and high enough?0 -
quote:Originally posted by Captplaid
Yeah, I refuse to accept that answer yet.
I could have accepted that answer with the Remington 241. The plunger and set screw just before the bullet went into the barrel was causing a jam, but the problem was found there. ...of course I paid plenty for a new set screw on eabay.
Accept the answer of "It's a Norinco", for what it is. It is a Norinco. I got a couple of them, because they were in-expensive. The old saying holds true, of you get what you pay for in this case. Both had poor fit, and finnish...especially where the two halves joined on the interrupted threads. They might be a Browning CLONE, but they are a poorly made clone.
Best0 -
Take it to a gunshow and cut it loose Capt. You have already wasted too much time on it. 0 -
I don't have a real problem with the fit of finish.
The only problem with the fit is the spring loaded rod in the stock. The Remington had a loose fit with a brass rod. The Interarms (I don't want to call it a Norinco) has a steel rod with and I have to work it up and down. The spring jams in the rod.
btw. that first round is tight when it feeds into the barrel, but it's eating the federals tonight. ran 80 rounds through it tonight and only stuck once after the first round. That first round feed in tight.
I think I'll keep it, but it is tight.0 -
If I still had my old Browning (or 241) I could be a bit more specific.
Sorry, but I'm running on memory here and the batteries are weak. The problem may be tied to the barrel lock nut. As I recall it is possible to have the barrel tightly locked to the receiver BUT still too far "out" so that there's a gap between the bolt in it's normal closed position and the face of the barrel. Play with it. May help.0 -
RCrosby has it almost right. Holding the barrel assembly with the chamber facing you, the barrel adjusting rong should be turned clockwise to loosen the barrel/action and counterclock to tighten.
So, loosen (clockwise), and put the barrel in the receiver with the top of the barrel horizontal and to the right. Then twist the barrel counterclock until the barrel lock will slide into the recess on the bottom edge of the receiver. Turn the gun over, and run the barrel adjusting ring counterclock till you can't turn it any more.The gun should have a litle bit of "looseness". The rest of the play is taken out by removing the barrel and turning one click at a time. Don't forget the slide must be back a hair bedore the barrel will twist off.
When its' well-adjusted, you should have some resistance in the last 10-20 degrees of rotation of the barrel, and no play in the joint.
Then remember to slide the barrel lock back into the notch in the receiver.
You should be good to go.0 -
Filed the inside top edge of the barrelon the Norinco. Then went back with 600 git sandpaper and smoothed it up.
The loading is better now.
The trigger pull is actually considerably less than the Remington 241.
I don't have a new favorite, but I do like the Interarms Norinco. Only complain about fit is the rod up the stock. It isn't as smooth as the brass rod on the 241. The rods are interchangeable.
The cartridge guide also looks to be interchangeable. Without taking it out of the Norinco and comparing it to a spare for the 241, the only difference looks to be the size of the hole for the sping on the side.0
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