reloading dies
Are there carbide dies in pistol and rifle calibers?
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When I first started using reloading equipment there was a lot of rust on dies that I put away for further use. I started to use carburetor cleaner to clean them and put them in a plastic bag away in a drawer for future use. Now I get then out and they are in much better condition yet there is still some rust and would like to know if there is some lubrication that I can use on them to store?
Emmett0 -
Roll crimp (in the groove provided) revolver rounds, to prevent the bullets from pulling out under recoil.
Taper crimp "bottom feeders" to prevent the bullets from pushing back into the case during recoil and feeding.0 -
To Crimp or not to Crimp:
I know crimping can be a pain in the butt, but you really should. Just set it on the first load, and everything should go according to plan. The only problem I ever encounter is when I use bullets without a cannelure. I have to be even more patient then. They can still be crimped, but I just put enough to keep them from pulling out or getting pushed in.
Yeah, check out the STICKYS. I forgot about the 9mm and 45ACP. You definitely need to check out what type of crimp you will require for any cartridge. Your die sets should be marked with what type of crimp you may require.0 -
There are TWO stickys on the subject at the top of the forum.
DO NOT and I REPEAT DO NOT roll crimp a 9MM or 45ACP. These cases headspace on the case mouth and if you roll crimp them, losing headspace, a heck of a lot of bad can happen and ZERO good will be the result.
A taper crimp, from a taper crimp die, is proper for those cartridges.0 -
+1 What everyone's said already.
Also,
Re: bullets without cannelures and roll crimps;
Swaged, and even most cast, bullets are soft enough to take a decent roll crimp. Corbin (and others) makes a neat tool for adding a cannelure groove to jacketed bullets.
Ex. I had a .38-40 that loved 200 grain XTP's after I put a cannelure in them and seated with a modest roll crimp.0 -
The good news is that the die makers are smart enough to supply taper-crimp dies for rimless rounds and roll-crimp dies for rimmed. Unless you special order, you'll get the right kind automatically.
Setting a taper crimp properly is a little more difficult, because the differences are so subtle. The best way is to carefully measure the case mouth diameter with a bullet seated but not crimped and then very gradually adjust the die down (seating stem backed out to keep from pushing the bullet deeper) and re-measuring until you get just a bit of crimp. A couple thousandths ought to do it. Check the proper case mouth diameter from a SAAMI drawing if possible.
Finally, almost all crimp actions are dependent upon proper case length. That's obvious with a moment's thought. Handgun cases seldom if ever require trimming back due to growth, but it can be wise to trim them once in the beginning so that they are all the same.0 -
+1 on what Rocky said . If your cases needing a crimp aren't all the same length you'll be pulling your hair out ! 0 -
Don't worry about trimming the 9mm+45acp cases. They accually shrink a little for some reason. I've loaded thousands of both and once have the taper crimper set don't touch it again. 0 -
I recommend getting a Lee deluxe die set. It comes with seperate seating and crimp dies. Not to mention the crimp die is their "factory" crimp die. Its easy to set up, just follow the directions. I never trim pistol brass, its completely unnecessary. 0 -
Yes sir , those factory crimp dies are the cat's pajamas . They are the only Lee dies that I own . 0 -
quote:Originally posted by leeblackman
I recommend getting a Lee deluxe die set. It comes with seperate seating and crimp dies. Not to mention the crimp die is their "factory" crimp die. Its easy to set up, just follow the directions. I never trim pistol brass, its completely unnecessary.
the Lee seating dies all have a taper/roll crimp designed in them
adjusted properily you can achieve a taper crimp less the roll without having to buy a fourth die
I have been using lee carbide dies to reload 40S&W this way for 10+ years now and have never needed a dedicated taper/factory crimp die
just my .02
you mileage will vary0 -
Originally posted by Rocky Raab
The good news is that the die makers are smart enough to supply taper-crimp dies for rimless rounds and roll-crimp dies for rimmed. Unless you special order, you'll get the right kind automatically.
Are you saying that dies like RCBS come with either the roll crimp or taper crimp built in? I have the RCBS 45 ACP dies but haven't loaded any yet. If the crimping die is already designed for taper crimp I shouldn't have to order the taper crimp die. Is there a way I can confirm that this set is like that?0 -
Barring a wierd mistake, the .45 ACP set will be a taper crimp (built into the body of the bullet seater die).
Seems to me you could just run an empty, sized case into the crimp die, with it adjusted to give a firm crimp, and inspect the result. If you do not get a rolled case mouth, you have a taper crimp die. And, you have not even ruined the brass - just size and bell again.0 -
I've found that 9mm brass in particular varies alot in over all length. Even the same head stamp will be off by several thousands. I got into sorting by length in 2 thousands increments. The taper crimp die really does not care what the case length is as it "grabs" the case mouth to taper crimp and there is no problem. Roll crimps be it 38 special or .30-30 you'll need to have all the cases the same length to hit the sweet spot (ledge) inside that seater die. Or just get the factory crimp die. I discovered what a great tool(factory crimp die) this was loading .30-'06 rounds for my Garand. 0
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