New to shooting...zeroing sights...
As I am fairly new to shooting...does one have to zero the sights on new guns?
I shot a friend's S&W Model 19 (.357 Magnum, 4" barrel) and was fairly accurate with it. He's "big" into shooting, probably been shooting for 50+ years, and I'm sure his guns are "top notch", if you know what I mean. I recently purchased a S&W Model 386, .357 Magnum with a 3" barrel, and the first time shooting with it, I wasn't even close to being as accurate with it from the same distance as I was the Model 19.
Is this be because I haven't zeroed in the sights? I know that light weight guns have a bit more "kick" to them but would it be that much of a difference from the Model 19 shooting the same ammo (MagTech Clean Range .38)? Or is the accuracy difference due to the difference between a 4" barrel and a 3" barrel?
TIA...
I shot a friend's S&W Model 19 (.357 Magnum, 4" barrel) and was fairly accurate with it. He's "big" into shooting, probably been shooting for 50+ years, and I'm sure his guns are "top notch", if you know what I mean. I recently purchased a S&W Model 386, .357 Magnum with a 3" barrel, and the first time shooting with it, I wasn't even close to being as accurate with it from the same distance as I was the Model 19.
Is this be because I haven't zeroed in the sights? I know that light weight guns have a bit more "kick" to them but would it be that much of a difference from the Model 19 shooting the same ammo (MagTech Clean Range .38)? Or is the accuracy difference due to the difference between a 4" barrel and a 3" barrel?
TIA...
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Not sure of your term accuracy. Bullet hits upon the target in a tight group indicate good equipment and shooter accuracy. It is then only needed to adjust the sights to bring the group to a desired point. Hits scattered about randomly indicate equipment or shooter error. What is your situation?
With a three inch barrel suggest shooting from sand bags at 15 to 25 yds, with same ammo.0 -
Just line up the sight squeeze gently as u hold your breath. Breathe Repeat. They should all be close to each other and shot 3 to 5 at a time so U can make a good group. Now after U shoot 20 or more rounds , try it again but take your time and try to hit the hole of the firat shot. Then adjust. Rinse and Repeat. [:D] 0 -
You do have to zero in a new gun. Rarely will it come exact and dialed into your style of shooting. 0 -
Hello lets look at pistol shooting the closer the front sight is to the rear sight on a fire arm the more attention the shooter needs to pay to the relationship between the front and rear sight and the smaller % of their attention to the target. just like holding your arm and hand out straight out with pivot at shoulder you can move your whole arm and still point in the same general direction. Now hold your hand against your waist with your finger pointing straight ahead now bend your finger like you were making a fist your hand and arm did not move but your short finger went from pointing straight ahead to straight backwards. look at the front sight and put it in the middle of rear sight notch both level as to their tops. Now if these small groups are not where you want them relative to the target adjust the sights ."adjusting the sights will NOT make the groups smaller it will just change where the groups go."
EDIT Most shooters that are right handed tend to shoot low left. It sound like it should work the other way but Heavier bullets will normally Print Higher on the target because the pistol will recoil more before the bullet exits the barrel.0 -
Sorry I wasn't as clear as I should have been. The grouping is not really the issue, even though it is not on the bullseye, it is still a fairly tight group considering I'm a relatively new shooter.
The issue is where I'm hitting on the target in relation to where I'm aiming. I'm pretty confident that my aiming the sites on the bullseye is good and my "technique" (breath, hold, and trigger control) is being performed to the best of my newbie ability...granted, there is definitely room for improvement there.
With my friend's gun, I'm pretty much grouped on the 2" bullseye. With my gun, the grouping is still good but is low and left of the bullseye...more low than left in regards to the bullseye.
My question is, is this more of an issue of not having the sights zeroed in or is it due to the gun being lighter and/or having a shorter barrel (3" as opposed to 4")? Or, is it a combination of all three factors?0 -
Small group anywhere on the target is good.
If your gun doesn't have adjustable sights, you'll either be stuck with what you have (rear sight as part of frame) or you can replace them with adjustables. It may also be possible to drift your existing sights.
If to adjust left to right, move the rear sight towards where your group is. To adjust vertical, move the rear sight away from where your group is. If your front sight is adjustable for elevation, move the front sight towards the group (if you are low, lower front sight). Even with fixed sights you can file off the front a little bit at a time to raise point of impact.
quote:Originally posted by McDAccountant
Sorry I wasn't as clear as I should have been. The grouping is not really the issue, even though it is not on the bullseye, it is still a fairly tight group considering I'm a relatively new shooter.
The issue is where I'm hitting on the target in relation to where I'm aiming. I'm pretty confident that my aiming the sites on the bullseye is good and my "technique" (breath, hold, and trigger control) is being performed to the best of my newbie ability...granted, there is definitely room for improvement there.
With my friend's gun, I'm pretty much grouped on the 2" bullseye. With my gun, the grouping is still good but is low and left of the bullseye...more low than left in regards to the bullseye.
My question is, is this more of an issue of not having the sights zeroed in or is it due to the gun being lighter and/or having a shorter barrel (3" as opposed to 4")? Or, is it a combination of all three factors?0 -
The 386 has fixed sights & a 2 1/2" barrel. It is designed for short range use, primarily self-defense. You can try different loads, as they will shoot to a different place on the target, or you can use "Kentucky windage".
For target shooting, a better choice may have been the 386 LS Hunter, which has a 6" barrel & adjustable rear sight.
Neal
EDIT: I was not clear enough. Guns with short barrels are designed for close range (self defense) use; gun magazines usually test fire them at 7 yds. With the light weight barrel & short sight radius, most shooters find that they do not shoot well at 50 or 75', standard for handgun target shooting.
EDIT: Every type gun is unique. Different frame size, different weight, different grips, & different rifling twist rate.0 -
quote:Originally posted by nmyers
The 386 has fixed sights & a 2 1/2" barrel.
Not mine. Mine has a 3 1/8" barrel and HiViz sights.0 -
Take a look at this diagram. It may be the shooter instead of the pistol. I Know this has heped me from time to time whenO get off center.
http://www.targetshooting.ca/docs/Pistol_Shot_Analysis.pdf0 -
Neal...I understand what you are saying in the "edit", however both guns were fired from about 20'.
Maalox...I've seen that diagram before, very helpful. But as stated above, both guns were shot from the same distance...with his gun I was "on target", with mine I wasn't.
Would the one inch barrel length difference and the difference in weight cause me to be that far off from that distance even if the sights were zeroed?0
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