M1 Garand Firing Problem
I have a Springfield made M1 Garand that I have a firing issue problem. I've pretty much ruled out bad ammo - either surplus or my own reloads as the problem occurs with both types. After I fire 3 to 4 clips I start having problems with it firing. In most instances it appears that the "dimple" made by the firing pin is not deep enough to activate primer ignition. I have a theory that either the firing pin is possibly cracked or broken and/or the bolt is not completely cocking. (Just 2 WAG items that I thought of.) I've had a couple of "squib" rounds too that scare the hell out of me. The primer pocket is "dimpled" but the powder doesn't ignite yet the bullet remains in the barrel just where the groves begin in the barrel. Any constructive suggestions would be greatly appreciated.
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Sounds to me like you might not be applying enough lubricant and as you note it's not locking up properly. What type lubricant do you use and are you sure that you are applying enough of it in all the right places? 0 -
I'd be looking at a damaged firing pin fist followed by a problem with the hammer and/or it's spring, both of which can lead to light firing pin strikes. There is the possibility that the bolt is not locking, but generally speaking if the bolt is not locked the firing pin won't be properly cammed for a hammer strike, unless of course the pin is danged, which means all bets are off. The firing pin may not be broken but can be worn out of spec and be too short to fully strike the primer. There is a protrusion gauge to check this, but it is easier to just compare the firing pin OAL with a known example using a micrometer. In any case you will have to disassemble the bolt and this is a tricky proposition on an M1 rifle unless you have the dedicated bolt tool. You can use the M10 combo tool provided with the cleaning kit to disassemble the bolt, but for a novice (or even an old hand) this can be an exercise in frustration. Make sure the rifle is properly lubricated as Kimi suggested and try it once more to see if this helps at all. 0 -
Possible I guess, Mark, but it sounds like a feeding problem, lack of lubricant, or more likely dirty chamber, locking lug recesses, etc. However, on second thought you might be exactly right.
2nd EDIT: Mark, maybe it's a combination of feeding and bolt issues.0 -
quote:Originally posted by hermiem
I have a Springfield made M1 Garand that I have a firing issue problem. I've pretty much ruled out bad ammo - either surplus or my own reloads as the problem occurs with both types. After I fire 3 to 4 clips I start having problems with it firing. In most instances it appears that the "dimple" made by the firing pin is not deep enough to activate primer ignition. I have a theory that either the firing pin is possibly cracked or broken and/or the bolt is not completely cocking. (Just 2 WAG items that I thought of.) I've had a couple of "squib" rounds too that scare the hell out of me. The primer pocket is "dimpled" but the powder doesn't ignite yet the bullet remains in the barrel just where the groves begin in the barrel. Any constructive suggestions would be greatly appreciated.
Item in blue, above: Fault of the ammo. Nothing from the rifle caused that.
Prior posters have addressed the rifle's potential faults.
Do you know what a healthy firing pin should be doing in the bolt? How far it should protrude? I'd check that first. Shake the bolt back and forth in your hand. If the F/P doesn't freely slide along the bolt axis, stop right there, and locate the reason.
Do you know what a healthy mainspring feels like when you manually cock the hammer (with the trigger group out of the rifle)? If it feels 'off', then address the problem(s). May be a worn hammer pin, or the housing may be worn where the pin boss is.
Check the circular 'bridge' on the receiver underneath the bolt. Look carefully for the camming-ramp located there, and check for evidence it's being hit by the firing pin. If so, the hammer is hitting the firing pin, and the firing pin is hitting the camming ramp causing the F/P to slide home along the ramp, using up hammer strike energy.
Now, the paragraph immediately above: Cause is a worn bolt camming lug on the right side of the bolt, or the operating rod recess is out of spec, or the square 'tab' on the back of the op-rod is sloppy in the channel, etc.
Heat problems: Piston/cylinder area gets the most heat. Not likely a problem in your case, however. The barrel will heat/get dirty, causing some restriction in the chamber. You need to reload using full-length small base dies. That may cause improper bolt lockup.
Opinion: Worn parts on the gun..perhaps several parts, causing 'stacking error'. However, the oversize brass may be the primary culprit (see paragraph above). Best, Joe0 -
Joe - Can you please explain tp me what "small base" dies are? I use RCBS standard full-length and neck sizing dies. Is this a problem? 0 -
Hermiem
If you look at the mouth of your sizing die, you will see a radius and lead in taper. This is the area of the die that would be in contact with the base area of the case (IE the area just above the extractor groove).
On a small base die, the radius is smaller and the taper is reduced/eliminated allowing the die to size the case closer to your shellholder.0
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