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Let the reloading fun begin

Comments

12 comments

  • Rocky Raab
    Psssst - Jonk ... Varget for the heavy ones, TAC for the light ones.

    Trust me.
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  • Bubba Jr.
    I'm going out to the barn after lunch to reload. It's time to stock up.[:(!]
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  • jonk
    Ah forgot to mention... I did have a pile of .223 I had picked up here and there- not that I ever owned a .223 before.

    55 gr Ultramax- about 2" at 100 yards.
    62 gr Silver Bear- about 3"
    62 gr surplus green tip ammo (probably light AP)- just had some lying around. 3".

    The gun is capable of much better and the only ammo on hand was admittedly bottom of the barrel stuff but I did get to try it out for function anyhow. [:D]
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  • bpost
    Start two-thirds up the chart with the 4895, you might be surprised how well it shoots. [:D]
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  • dcs shooters
    Try Reloader-15 with the 69gr. bullets. My Douglas barrel Rem.700 with 1:8 twist sure loves it.
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  • BHAVIN
    69 SMK's with Varget. That's the ticket.
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  • 45Kimber
    Varget - though a pain to throw is great. Also H335 and H322 are great choices.
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  • 45Kimber
    By the way, great gun. I have 3 BVSS rifles. Two in 243 and one in 22-250. If yours has the acu-trigger you will love it. For accuracy, an overall length gauge and bullet comparator kit are essential. Takes the guess work out of how long to seat your bullets at.

    Have fun.
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  • jonk
    quote:Originally posted by 45Kimber
    By the way, great gun. I have 3 BVSS rifles. Two in 243 and one in 22-250. If yours has the acu-trigger you will love it. For accuracy, an overall length gauge and bullet comparator kit are essential. Takes the guess work out of how long to seat your bullets at.

    Have fun.
    I've already worked that out the hard way by seating a bullet in a dummy cartridge, trying to chamber it, turning the seating screw down 1/4 of a turn, trying it, etc. until it chambered.

    It does have the accutrigger.
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  • haroldchrismeyer
    To find an accurate load like you want, you need to have one kind of brass, not a mixture. Then you need to weigh your brass, and sort out heavy and light ones. All brass should be fire formed to the chamber before you go for accuracy, and then only neck sized, and trimmed.

    Bullets can vary too, and they need to be checked for uniform weight.

    These are just the beginnings if you want ultimate accuracy, and then it is still dependent on the equipment, and the person using the equipment.

    I have found a lot of rifles aren't as dependent on a certain type of powder, but more of the being sure everything is the same for every round.

    quote:I've already worked that out the hard way by seating a bullet in a dummy cartridge, trying to chamber it, turning the seating screw down 1/4 of a turn, trying it, etc. until it chambered

    If you cut a slit in a case neck, you can barely seat a bullet by hand, and then chamber it. I usually seat bullets .050 inches deeper, rather than having them on the lands.
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  • jonk
    Well, yes. Right now I'm just using Lake City but will probably pop for some Lapua or Norma at some point as the weather gets decent.
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  • Rocky Raab
    What Harold says is true for serious competitive shooting - but not for the average Joe. "Accurate" doesn't have to mean one-hole groups.

    Do keep your brass sorted by brand. If you were lucky enough to get it all from one production lot (you bought it new) then keep those together, also. But all that weighing and sorting of brass and bullets is completely superfluous for 99.99% of all shooters.

    I define "accurate" as minute of target. If your groups are half the size of what you're aiming at, at the range you're shooting, that is more than "accurate" enough; whether that means half a deer chest, half a pop can or half a squirrel's head. If the load/gun/shooter does that well, it's good enough.
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