homemade steel plate targets
I have a discount steel store not to far from me and access to a plasma cutter and welder. I would like to make a rack of steel plate targets.
Has anyone made any? Is there any place I can get plans?
Has anyone made any? Is there any place I can get plans?
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I have about 60 different swinging metal targets located on my personal range. They vary from various geometrical shapes (rectangles, diamonds, & circles) to those cut in the shape of animals (deer, birds, rabbits, etc.). I use various methods of hanging them, but for the bigger ones, the easiest method that I have found (over about 15 yrs) is to loosely suspend them from holes cut near the top between two T-posts with rope. They will swing when hit and when the rope is shot (and it will be), repair is very quick & easy. None of my targets are less than 50 yds from the benches.
I have found that I prefer to shoot the rectangles (ranging in size from 2"x4" to 8"x15" or the diamonds (ranging from 2 1/2" to 5" tip to tip). I shoot mostly revolvers. If I can consistantly hit the "small" diamond at about 100 yds, I am happy.0 -
If you don't shoot them with too much power, plain old steel targets will work. Keep this in mind, a 223 HP will hole 1/4" plate at 100 yards and divot the heck out of it at 150. Using 1/4" for 22lr and 38/9mm is good for most shooting. Be cautious about bounce back. I've seen 9mm and 38 return to about 10-15 yards.
I use a strap on the back of smaller to medium size plates with a hole for a cross rod between uprights. Make the cross rod hole away from the plate so it hangs with the bottom tilted away from you. That diverts splatter down to the ground. You'll see a little trench after just a few rounds where the splatter digs the dirt out.0 -
I use worn out cutting edges from earth moving equipment. 308's just leave a splatter, these things are tough. Stop at any place you see equipment, they will have a pile of used cutting edges and will probably be glad to give you a few. 0 -
Make either swingers or angle them down some or make them fall backwards. And don't shoot any closer than 15yds. 0 -
Depending upon the type of steel, number of rounds and what you're shooting, larger (silhouette size) steel targets will eventually begin to bow in a convex manner. Over time this can become a safety issue. It really complicates things when trying to angle them to control spatter/ricochets.
I'd suggest mounting steel targets in such a way that they can be flipped periodically and shot from the opposite side.0 -
I am going to chime in a ask a question on this subject, what would be a good thickness for a .308 or a 30-06 round at a hundred yards. I don`t think I would shoot at any with that caliber closer. 0 -
quote:Originally posted by grandman
I am going to chime in a ask a question on this subject, what would be a good thickness for a .308 or a 30-06 round at a hundred yards. I don`t think I would shoot at any with that caliber closer.
I use 1/2" AR 500 plate.
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Crittergitter made some from T1 plate, pretty hard stuff. 7.62x54 with steel cores with make pockmarks at 80 yards. Hanging from a chain helps to keep it from making holes, and deflects the rounds down into the ground under it. We had a piece of track cleat from a D-9 stuck in the ground next to it, AP rounds made scuff marks.
My boy, the official target hanger, showing off his artwork.
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Best to start with a mill certified AR steel plate and laser cut or water jet the shape you want. All AR plate is hardened through a heat treatment process where the metal is heated and cooled within certain specs. Gas torch cut or plasma cutting introduces heat intense heat along the most vulnerable edges which will cause increased decreased hardness and an increase In chipping and shearing. Look for a reputable like http://www.grizzlytargets.com. They know how to get your money to last. 0 -
I agree 100% with wtroper ,
I made 2 frames for my gongs
and hung them with chains.
Shot the chains right off.
I now use para cord,
and they ring better.0
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