New Remington 700P .338 Lapua
Wondering if anyone has one of the new Remington 700 Police .338 Lapuas. I'm waiting on ours to get here in the next few days. Looking for any advice here I can get. This is not the older MLR. I am glad I waited, but I am a little worried due to some of the issues I have heard and read about. I just hope this gives me the same quality I have in all my other model 700 rifles. I absolutely LOVE my 300 WM. Have two of them. Relatively cheap to shoot, and kick it VERY well at long distances. Basically, this purchase was made because of the 700 platform, the current rarity of the model, and something else me and the boys could play around with when reloading. I am looking for some good reload data for this gun as well (brass, bullets, powder). I know how particular each gun can be for certain round "recipies". Probably use it on nothing but long range paper. Who knows.
Mainly, I was just wanting to see how people are liking the new model as opposed to the MLR or other models. Some others were a little out of my range, and I personnaly have NEVER had anything but EXCELLENT luck with my Remingtons. Hope to hear from some of you with one. I've been researching other posts, and haven't found any information on the new model.
Many Thanks
Mainly, I was just wanting to see how people are liking the new model as opposed to the MLR or other models. Some others were a little out of my range, and I personnaly have NEVER had anything but EXCELLENT luck with my Remingtons. Hope to hear from some of you with one. I've been researching other posts, and haven't found any information on the new model.
Many Thanks
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Well, just custom ordered a Leupold VX-IIIL for this thing. It's a 4.5-14x56LR with a Varmit Reticle, CDS windage and Elevation adjustments, and Bullet Drop Compensation. If my wife finds out how much I've spent in the last two weeks, I'm only going to need ONE round.
I have never custom ordered a scope from Leupold. Does anyone know about how long these things take.0 -
I'm not sure of the difference between the MLR and the P version - I got mine in Dec 09 (tossed the box) and it looks the same as the one you've posted. Rough black finish, Sako extractor, brake, detach magazine and for some reason two screws on the left rear of the receiver for mounting a peep sight which I don't think will be used by anyone. Same finish as my Rem 700 PPS in 7mm Rem Mag. Has the 40X trigger, I adjusted it down to as low as possible. No loctite on the threads just the usual goop on the screw heads.
I'd like the barrel to be a bit heavier. Haven't shot mine yet, whatever it is - what issues were there with the MLR?
Anyway, I got a 30mm Leupold Vari X III in 8.5 to 25.0 -
Both you guys are cheating yourself, by not putting better glass and mounting systems on those rifles. Those are capable of a lot better accuracy at long distance than the glass you put on them.
Best0 -
Scopes have come a LONG way since I last bought one. I went with Leupold because I knew more about them. I researched A LOT of different scopes (Nightforce, etc). VERY high. Looked at so many I got dizzy. I actually spent more than I ever thought I would for a scope. I never thought a scope could cost as much or more than the rifle. 0 -
quote:Originally posted by 1988z01
Scopes have come a LONG way since I last bought one. I went with Leupold because I knew more about them. I researched A LOT of different scopes (Nightforce, etc). VERY high. Looked at so many I got dizzy. I actually spent more than I ever thought I would for a scope. I never thought a scope could cost as much or more than the rifle.
I have a rifle similar to yours...Sendero SF II...skim bedded, and trigger, that i have twice as much in the scope and mounting hardware as i do the rifle. You would have been better off with the Burris XTR Tactical, than the Leupold...it is much more scope, but to each as own. The mounting hardware is as important as the rifle and the scope...no place to use the standard twist in dovetail base and ring.
Best0 -
quote:Originally posted by tsr1965
Both you guys are cheating yourself, by not putting better glass and mounting systems on those rifles. Those are capable of a lot better accuracy at long distance than the glass you put on them.
Best
I think I'll do fine with the Leupold. Maybe I'm underestimating what else is out there, but I think that scope on a $1,200.00 rifle seems a good match. Badger base is 20 MOA, my shooting is generally no more than 800 yds.0 -
1988z01,
The 'new model' has a new stainless barrel and some other slight improvements from the MLR. Nothing major, call it refinements. The accuracy reports have been appropriate to the platform and the generic shooters buying them. There are quite a few professional folks trying to add them to their operations inventory here in the U.S. and it has made it's way into Australia (of all the gun hating places to send this rifle) and New Zealand.
There are far better muzzle brakes on the market but Remington chose to go adequate (cheap) as opposed to going with what works best. I think it's threaded 5/8-24 so you should be able to switch the brake if you desire. Check first as memory can be subject to question.
I think the rifle is too light for the cartridge but Remington listened to the majority of folks who whine about carrying a slightly heavier rifle. These are the folks who would never own a .338 Lapua anyway but that's who used their influence. Many of these rifles will be resold shortly after a couple of shots fired downrange by the unprepared, just like the .300 RUM and the .338 RUM. The hang tag will read 'As New in the Box with 18 unfired cartridges'.
The questions about appropriate scopes comes into these discussions frequently, usually asking for suggestions or comments about a particular scope choice.
We all have different sensitivities and needs for most products that we purchase. We have a comfort or rational range that we find to be acceptable for our needs and desires. That's why we have the extreme range of prices and quality available, at least as far as scopes are concerned. Sometimes these needs come into opposition with other members simply because of a different range of experiences or knowledge.
Ostensibly, there is nothing wrong with the Leupold products. They have achieved name recognition and deliver a fine product in most cases. Name recognition is one of the most important factors when it comes to a person buying a new scope. There is comfort knowing that the company is well known and has a decent reputation. They are a safe bet.
As pointed out though, the area of glass and scope mechanics have made great strides in the last few years. Unfortunately, so have the prices. Scopes valued at $500.00 ten years ago are now in the $1500 - $1800.00 range. No longer is Leupold the undisputed leader in the field of Sport Optics, namely rifle scopes. There are several companies that have advanced more and faster than Leupold, bringing to market several types of new and improved optics both in the general field and specific pursuits. But they also come with a price, a high price.
No one is saying that you made a bad choice. Rather, some of us believe that our money is better spent elsewhere even if it is at a higher price. The cost of the rifle has little or less to do with this than the cartridge, performance and applied use. For general field or target use, the Leupolds are fine. They will deliver (for the most part) a decent image and some degree of quality or longevity when used with discretion. The average consumer will be very happy with the product and its life-use cycle.
Personally, for my intended uses, Leupold falls into that category of 'over priced/under delivered'. But I use scopes in a much different fashion than the great majority of shooters. I require reliability in situations that simply don't exist for the average sport/target shooter. I spend more on different brands than other folks simply because of the need, that's all. It's not elitist or snobbish but merely need and requirements. And yes I have a couple of $1200.00 scopes on $500.00 rifles. It suits my needs.
As performance demands increase in the world of target shooting, the demand for even greater quality and the willingness to pay the commensurate prices will continue. Those folks attuned to the venues of long range targets will see this as we are stretching the ranges ever longer and asking for optics to work at those distance. Once you get to 1,000 yards, try one mile (1,760 yards). Then go for 2,000 or even 3,000 yards as some of my acquaintances are striving to achieve. You can't get there with the standard optics that the general public is used to reading about.
Buy the quality range that you're comfortable spending that works for you.
Best.0 -
I sincerely want to thank you for the "nononsense" advice. I have to say that I have learned quite a bit from reading a lot of your posts.
I am hoping to be able to shoot up to 1000 yards. I would love to find the location to shoot further, but am rather limited where I live.
I need to continue to "update" my knowledge. So much has happened in the shootig and optics industry since the early 90's. I remember thinking that my 300 WM was the biggest thing I would ever see or want to shoot. I feel pretty confident with the scope purchase I made. Now I am waiting for all of this stuff to get here so that I can go do some shooting. The more research I do on this cartridge, and other optics, the older I feel. Up until 1990, I was still using my second edition Hornady reloading book for all my reload needs. I just purchased a few new books.
I am CERTAINLY tickled that I bought and bought and bought bullets and cases for my other rifles and pistols, especially in light of the prices I see now. I am looking forard to reloading for the .338.
If you happen to know of any articles I can read on the new Remington 338, please let me know. I have had so much difficulty finding anything.
Thank you again for everything,
Jamie0 -
quote:Originally posted by nononsense
1988z01,
There are far better muzzle brakes on the market but Remington chose to go adequate (cheap) as opposed to going with what works best. I think it's threaded 5/8-24 so you should be able to switch the brake if you desire. Check first as memory can be subject to question.
Best.
One of the things I liked about the AR 30 and FN Mini Hecate is the muzzle brake, the AR 30 had virtually no recoil. Given the Remington threading (if the same as AR 308 type) I suppose the JP "anti tank" type could be mounted but I think that looks a bit much on this rifle. I don't mind a distinctly larger profile, which brake works "next best" so to speak? Aside from heating and turning are there any tips for the factory brake removal?0 -
dfletcher,
"I suppose the JP "anti tank" type could be mounted but I think that looks a bit much on this rifle."
That's one of the personal limits that we all run into on occasion. The JP looks appropriate on the AR or military-type rifles but seems out of place and bulky on the sporting style rifles. Aside from the obvious bulk, the JP is one of the very best brakes on the market.
The Badger Ordnance FTE (Face Towards Enemy) is another terrific brake but again slightly on the bulky side. Marty at Badger makes a series of brakes named Thruster which can be tapered or turned slightly to mate seamlessly with the barrel contour. They are very efficient. After that, there are a couple of dozen which are all very similar in both looks and performance.
If you're looking for something a tad different, Pete Lincoln of Roedale Precision in Germany, makes some with a slightly square profile:
http://www.webshop.roedale.de/index.php?cat=c89_Muzzle-Brakes.html&XTCsid=f1366e5241fe50d817c637961ffe5d17
Another slightly better looking tank-style brake is the one Benny Cooley designed with JP:
http://jprifles.com/1.4.3_tre.php
Vais makes a distinctive style which is efficient. The one by Ops Inc is good also.
The only technique involved in removing a brake is to control the barrel without it twisting or turning to prevent marring the finish. There is usually some sort of goop in the threads so this will need to be cleaned off before adding another threaded brake. I always use some form of anti-seize on the threads before applying any brake.
Be aware that some brakes will require timing. This can involve shortening the brake (lathe) or using a set of very thin washers to adjust the timing. Lots of the adapter brakes use the washers and the Badger FTE threads on but locks on with a screw, making timing a breeze.
Best.0
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