Reloaders Nickle Shells
Are nickle shells OK for reloading or should I stick with brass only?
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I've never reloaded any but they can be reloaded. From what I understand, they tend to split easier at the mouth than plain brass. Reload and just keep a eye on them. 0 -
I have reloaded nickle plated 45 ACP shells. They started to discolor and show the brass underneath after awhile, but other than that they reloaded fine. I prefer brass, but was given a couple of hundred nickel plated ones. 0 -
Nickle plated cases are reloadable and do fine. They tend not to have the service life of brass as they are harder. The cases will also scratch easier if not cleaned before sizing. 0 -
Not an expert, but that never stopped me before. Pistol/revolver and bottleneck nickle brass reloads fine, cleans easier and is just purty. There has been some discussion about the inside necks of bottleneck brass being rough, like sandpaper, and therefore hard on an expander ball. I continue to use nickle straight wall brass, but I quit using bottleneck brass, justified or not. 0 -
You want carbide dies for them. 0 -
I've loaded bunches of 45 and 38 nickle. Like said they don't last as long as brass. 0 -
I load both for my general loads as if there is no difference... (obviously still checking them all for splits and such)
I have a bucket with a few thousand .38 and a bucket with a few thousand .40, and a reject bucket... while it does seem the reject bucket gets more nickel than brass, they always feed, bang, and eject just fine for me...
I keep match brass separate all together...0 -
Should not be a problem. I have loaded lots of nickel cases in 9mm, .38/.357, .44, .45 and no issues. 0 -
Hi...I prefer my reloads to look nice, and as such, prefer the nickel cases, which seem much easier to clean. Mine are mostly pistol cases, though. BT 0 -
i have about 7 reloads on some 50ae and no splits.
as matter of fact i have had brass split and not had any nickel for what its worth0
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