stupid question
#1 i posted a bit ago about some of my 223 reloads not chambering properly. turns out i didn't have the resizing die set down far enough to push the shoulder back into place. Ive since corrected the problem on all my cases i haven't loaded yet but i have ~40rds loaded. ive tried pulling them with a kinetic puller and it is a royal pain in the fanny. can i simply pull the center portion out of the resizing die and run a loaded round through it to push the shoulder back?? im gonna guess not but cant hurt to check.
#2 i recently started loading 9mm(luger). in the brass i have i found 1 case with 9x17 on the head-stamp. if theres others i missed that are mixed in with the 9mm cases, will they cause a problem loading them up and shooting them in a fnp-9?
#2 i recently started loading 9mm(luger). in the brass i have i found 1 case with 9x17 on the head-stamp. if theres others i missed that are mixed in with the 9mm cases, will they cause a problem loading them up and shooting them in a fnp-9?
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To question #1; NO for various reasons, among them--never a good idea to mess around with a cartridge in a chamber (the die) other than your rifle. 0 -
When you load the Bullet into the case, it EXPANDS. If you were to insert the loaded round into the resize die, it would Jam FOREVER when the resize die reached the neck of the case. The Case, Plus the Bullet is nearly incompressible, so the case would probably fail/crumple. 0 -
quote:Originally posted by Ambrose
To question #1; NO for various reasons, among them--never a good idea to mess around with a cartridge in a chamber (the die) other than your rifle.
didnt even think of that point. [B)]0 -
Joshmb1982.
The truth is what Handload said. Since the neck expanded with the insertion of the bullet, you can not reinsert the case with bullet back into the sizer. Even if you could get it to scrunch down it would resize the back of the bullet so bad it wouldn't shoot right.
Secondly, as Ambrose stated you would then have a live bullet stuffed in your sizer and getting it out could be what's really dangerous.
Continue to whack away, one by one, at the bullets that need to be pulled. It takes just about as much time and money to safely destroy those rounds.
Edit:
If you are not wanting to spend the time you can put the rounds in your press without a die. Push the round above the press boss and grab the bullet with either pliers or dykes. Pull down with the press handle and hold the bullet to separate the two. You'll ruin the bullet. But, pulled bullets don't always show the best accuracy anyways.0 -
ill go try that now. at least that way i can reuse the powder case and primer. i was just gonna put them in with the duds at my range anyway so thats gonna work out better. thanks for the idea. 0 -
Good tip on using the press to pull bullets, if you don't have a collet bullet puller. Next, you have the question of whether to punch out the live primer when resizing. You can probably remove the primer punch pin and resize, leaving the live primer in the case. But, I go ahead and punch out the primer. Wear safety glasses. I've pushed out a few live primers, very carefully, slowly, and never had one go off. It probably isn't necessary to remove the primer, but, since I'm using case lube, I just feel better replacing the primer. 0 -
When using the pliers technique, hold the pliers VERTICAL (handles up). I use cheap slip-joint pliers for this. The curve of the jaws will act like a collet when they enter the die hole.
That method actually causes very little damage to the bullet. Accuracy hardly suffers at all. I suspect that the forces of firing instantly reshape any minor dents in the bullet, anyway.
The major problem with the pliers method is that you can accidentally deform the top thread or two in the press. If you do, you can fix it by threading a die in FROM BELOW. Put a dab of grease or oil on the damaged thread and the die will re-shape that last thread perfectly.0 -
quote:Originally posted by Rocky Raab
When using the pliers technique, hold the pliers VERTICAL (handles up). I use cheap slip-joint pliers for this. The curve of the jaws will act like a collet when they enter the die hole.
That method actually causes very little damage to the bullet. Accuracy hardly suffers at all. I suspect that the forces of firing instantly reshape any minor dents in the bullet, anyway.
The major problem with the pliers method is that you can accidentally deform the top thread or two in the press. If you do, you can fix it by threading a die in FROM BELOW. Put a dab of grease or oil on the damaged thread and the die will re-shape that last thread perfectly.
Rocky,
I did damage my threads. Felt kind of dumb for doing it too. If you damage them and don't have a thread chaser, just use an old die body threaded up from the bottom.
Joshmb1982,
My most recommended method without getting a collet puller (which isn't 100% foolproof either) is the dykes horizontal across the top of the die. You do get a pretty good dent across the body of the bullet. But the rear of the body is still good enough to seat back in a case and use as a velocity/pressure tester. They foul a little more so you'll want to take cleaning stuff to the range.
Good pliers grab but most only have 'teeth' that will lay parallel to the bullet. So, if you aren't grabbing hard enough they'll just slide up and off. Doing as Rocky recommend works great. You just take a chance on dinging threads. You might try using a big washer or nut that spans the die hole. That'll keep your press threads from getting smashed.0 -
Josh - not a stupid question at all. That's the benefit of these forums, only wish they were available 20 years ago. I tried every "bad way" stated above, with bad results, and had to learn the "pliers" method, and the de-prime (boom) method, and the "it's really stuck now" trials. No one knows everything, but together we all have a lot of experiences, good and bad.
I marvel every day when I read these forums how much someone knows about something. And what new ideas are available.
Best of luck with the .2230 -
ive pulled a few of the 223s now. taking the die out of the press works like a charm. very easy.
i have tried the puller that looks like a hammer. pulled some 30-06 apart and i loaded a few 223 cases with no powder or primer just to make sure they fit in my rifle. when i went to try to pull them back apart to load them, i could not for the life of me get that friggen bullet to come out. i think the little 62gr bullet just didnt have enough mass to slide out. ended up throwing the case and bullet away. at least this way im only ruining the bullet. im not to worried about throwing them out. all told they cost around 4 bucks so its no great loss.
ill have to check the threads on the press now. it pulled really easy so im not to worried though.
thanks for all the advise guys. its much appreciated.0 -
Well I've re-sized them with the bullet in place. Never stuck one yet. Not that the resulting mangled bullet has any sort of accuracy, mainly just to do what was quick and worked.
Fact: Steel is harder than brass, copper, or lead. Fact: You are applying the mechanical force of hundreds if not thousands of pounds to that bullet. Fact: You can resize jacketed projectiles using a push through die in your press with little effort.
So why do any of you think this wouldn't work?
Safety issues: the primer fall out hole bored through the shellholder ensures that no pressure is ever transferred to the primer.
Personally I'd feel SAFER doing this than using an impact puller, with all the concussions going with it... I've only done this 2-3 times but never had an issue.0 -
#1, check with Lee and see if they still have a "factory reizeing die"
#2 9X17 brass is 380. 9X19 is 9mm brass.0 -
quote:Originally posted by dcs shooters
#1, check with Lee and see if they still have a "factory reizeing die"
#2 9X17 brass is 380. 9X19 is 9mm brass.
Good answer DCS! I forgot about the factory crimp dies by Lee. I always, always use them on my pistol loads. They make them for all rifle calibers too.
Edit: For Jonk,
quote:Originally posted by jonk
Well I've re-sized them with the bullet in place. Never stuck one yet. Not that the resulting mangled bullet has any sort of accuracy, mainly just to do what was quick and worked.
Fact: Steel is harder than brass, copper, or lead. Fact: You are applying the mechanical force of hundreds if not thousands of pounds to that bullet. Fact: You can resize jacketed projectiles using a push through die in your press with little effort.
So why do any of you think this wouldn't work?
Safety issues: the primer fall out hole bored through the shellholder ensures that no pressure is ever transferred to the primer.
Personally I'd feel SAFER doing this than using an impact puller, with all the concussions going with it... I've only done this 2-3 times but never had an issue.
Because I have stuck them in a standard die. The factory crimp die is cut out to handle the loaded neck. Not size the neck down.0 -
I use a redding body sizing die on my 30-06 and 223 loads after I have loaded and crimped them since they are both auto-loaders and if the case neck is slightly buckeled it fixes it. I also use the body die on my 30-06 before running them thru my regular dies for 2 reasons
1.) IF it gets stuck it's easier to remove the case from it than normal dies
2.) the face is flat, not beveled like regular loading dies so it sizes a tad farther down, and makes cycling more reliable0 -
I had a similar problem. Eventually broke down and purchased a collet puller. The problem with that is that sometimes the bullet will slip out of the collet. One answer to that was to get the bullet into the collet, and put a little upward pressure on the case so that the bullet moved into the case just a fraction of an inch, then it would pull right out when I lowered the ram.
Good luck with the problem in the future.0 -
RCBS Collet Bullet Puller- $19.99
http://www.midwayusa.com/viewProduct/?productNumber=6808040 -
This is a good reason to check reloaded ammo with a cartridge gauge to make sure it meets SAAMI specs. 0
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