Browning re barrel and restock
I finishing all my projects this winter, must be the snow.
Anyway, are Browning A-bolt II any harder to re-barrel. I have a 25 WSSM that I'm considering. I though a magnum sporter contour(#4) in 24" would be nice. Also a new laminated stock. I would like to get action trued with new barrel.
Thoughts and pitfalls would be appreciated.
I am not a gunsmith, I did assemble my first lower last week and though not too hard at all. But most work will be "outsourced".
Also is a light Varmint barrel that much heavier than a sporter magnum(from Shilen's website). It will be a multi-purpose gun, deer/coyote, some p-dogs when 204 needs rest, and paper punching but no competition in my future. Some day muley and antelope I hope.
The rifle is currently a 25 WSSM, I would like a medium weight barrel and a stock that fits me a little better. Has anyone used a stock from Richards Microfit Gunstocks, Inc?
Anyway, are Browning A-bolt II any harder to re-barrel. I have a 25 WSSM that I'm considering. I though a magnum sporter contour(#4) in 24" would be nice. Also a new laminated stock. I would like to get action trued with new barrel.
Thoughts and pitfalls would be appreciated.
I am not a gunsmith, I did assemble my first lower last week and though not too hard at all. But most work will be "outsourced".
Also is a light Varmint barrel that much heavier than a sporter magnum(from Shilen's website). It will be a multi-purpose gun, deer/coyote, some p-dogs when 204 needs rest, and paper punching but no competition in my future. Some day muley and antelope I hope.
The rifle is currently a 25 WSSM, I would like a medium weight barrel and a stock that fits me a little better. Has anyone used a stock from Richards Microfit Gunstocks, Inc?
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"...are Browning A-bolt II any harder to re-barrel."
Than what?
Ruger 10/22s are easier but the standard threaded bolt action rifles are really pretty much the same with the exception of metric threads, if you aren't used to them.
You can however, encounter some difficulties trying to convert a standard short action (.308, .243, .260, etc.) to use and feed the WSSM cartridges due to their shape and size. The boltface needs to be opened up and a new extractor fitted. Then the feed rails, feed ramp and follower all require fitting.
But, if you are simply rebarreling another WSSM action to the .25 WSSM chamber then you should have no problems at all except to do a tiny bit of finessing.
The weight difference comes from the radius and taper used on the sporter contours (less weight) as opposed to the straight taper used on the Varmint and competition barrels.
4 Magnum Sporter 1.200 .860 .650 3.0 6 26 28 3 lbs 14oz.
7LV Light Varmint [2] 1.250 -- .840 3.0 -- 26 28 6 lbs 12oz
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I have encountered questions about this issue a number of times, and the question has occurred to me many times.
I asked my gunsmith about it, and he tried to dissuade me from attempting to rebarrel an A-bolt in .223. I believe either he, or someone else, told me that in the assembly, some kind of locktite or other material is used to lock the barrel into the action. Further, it is difficult to release this material without damaging the receiver and threads.
However, I also heard that applying the proper amount of heating to the action and threads area before removing the barrel permits it to be accomplished.
This is about all I know. Can anyone confirm this?
Nononsense?
I seem to see very few A-bolts that have ever been rebarreled, so there must be something to the issue. I recall seeing maybe only a few in years.0 -
stevecrea,
"I asked my gunsmith about it, and he tried to dissuade me from attempting to rebarrel an A-bolt in .223. I believe either he, or someone else, told me that in the assembly, some kind of locktite or other material is used to lock the barrel into the action. Further, it is difficult to release this material without damaging the receiver and threads."
Most, if not all commercial rifle manufacturers, use some form of thread locker on their actions and triggers mostly as a quick deterrent for amateurs and gunsmiths not wanting to do a little extra work. The thread lockers used are also good at taking up a little of the 'extra slop' that sometimes occurs in mass production.
I am certainly not going to try to give out exact numbers but in the time that I've been taking barrels off, I have had exactly two (2) that stymied me for more than a couple of minutes. One was from a run of 'custom' receivers which used the wrong alloy which galled onto the barrel and the other was an M1917 which was demil'd.
The M1917 required a lathe to relieve the weld, a slightly bigger action wrench and a better fitting barrel sleeve. The pop as it broke loose was distinctive, I would say...
The 'custom' action had to have the barrel cut off and the tenon bored out of the action. This is not a big deal but it takes time and can cause some anxiety in the inexperienced person trying to resolve the situation. It will also serve to create several stories about how bad certain actions are to work with.
"However, I also heard that applying the proper amount of heating to the action and threads area before removing the barrel permits it to be accomplished."
The internet is great place to obtain information and entertainment. The problem becomes one of discerning the difference between good information and entertainment.
The combination of heat and cold can do wonders for expanding and contracting metals in order to get them apart. Simple physics. Use of the proper techniques is a great benefit to keeping the parts intact and operationally safe. I can confirm this but I will not give exact directions since the amateurs and wannabees would hold me responsible for their lack of ability.
There are probably a dozen methods of getting a barrel off of an action, many tried and tested for validity while others have been created by the 'internet experts' in an attempt to sound knowledgeable.
There are books which go into great detail regarding these techniques which are available from Brownells and other gunsmith resources.
Gunsmith Tips and Tricks is a favorite of many.
Gunkinks, all 4 volumes, are fun to read and have a ton of information.
The Machinist's Bedside Reader by Guy Lautard can keep most folks entertained for weeks. It is available in a 3-volume set.
http://lautard.com/books.htm
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Nononsense:
Thank you for the information.
However, I am still puzzled that I do not see more A-bolts that have been rebarreled. Is there another reason?0 -
stevecrea,
"However, I am still puzzled that I do not see more A-bolts that have been rebarreled. Is there another reason?"
Not anything significant except for sheer numbers.
In my experience, the actions most used for new barrels are the Mauser, Remington M700, Winchester M70 (all versions) and Savages. The first three are just because of notoriety, availability and accessories, the Savage from the standpoint of ease of changing barrels. This appeals to amateurs because they can accomplish a barrel change without being charged by a gunsmith.
A-Bolts do not sell in the numbers nor do they have the reputation for accuracy or the accurizing process that the Remington and Winchesters do. You don't read about the A-Bolt being used by snipers, sharpshooters or those who participate in competitions. The other four are used heavily in competitions.
I think that folks buy a Browning to use or keep and don't consider them for other barrels or changing them into another project with any regularity. I honestly don't think that there is another reason.
If the other members have ideas, it would be a good read.
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I do agree with Nononsense, wholeheartedly. The only time one usually sees a Browning A-Bolt, is in the hunting field. There is one rifle builder that I know of that offer's a Remington 700 as standard, A-Bolt's, and SAKO 75's as options. That custom rifle manufacturer is Christensen Arm's.
A little over a year ago, I took a SS A-Bolt II in 25 WSSM, and rebarreled it into a 6.5 Heaton. It is the talk and pride of our deer camp. We have guys snookering each other to get a chance to use it.
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