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Cylinder movment

Stradivarius
Hello guys, Sweden here. I am wondering if eanybody can help me solve a problem i have with several of my revolvers ( Remington new model army & Whitney revolvers ). I realy want to shoot with them att my local gun club ( i`m an instruktor there ) but i am not sure if they are safe. The reason for my worries is that they all seem to have cylinder movment, mostley sideways.

Someone told me it is the little cylinder lock ( picees ?f metal ) that is forced up when i cock the revolvers. This makes sense to me, but is there eany way i can remidy this. Mabey add on a fraction of steel ( or somthing ) to the little bit that pops up and holds the cylinder in place ?

The other problem is movment forward and backwords ( how on earth did this come to be ? ). I was told i could just put i little steel/iron washer behind the cylinder, and that would stop that movment. It seems like i would loose o lot ot power with the space inbetween the cylinder and the begining of the barrel becouse of this space ( 1-2 mm )

I would be very greatful for eany kind of tips-suggestions on how to fix theese problems.

Regards

Stradavarius in Sweden.
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Comments

6 comments

Date Votes
  • allen griggs
    When the gun is cocked there shouldn't be any side to side movement of the cylinder.
    The little piece that pops up and holds the cylinder in place is called the bolt.

    You could try ordering some new bolts from these guys:

    http://www.vtigunparts.com/
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  • elubsme
    The second problem, cylinder moves front to rear is called endshake. This is quite prevalent in brass frame revolvers. I had a replica Colt Navy with this problem. With a little work I was able to screw the cylinder base pin 1/2 turn deeper into the frame. The problem eventually returned. Some replicas were pretty cheaply made & priced accordingly.[:(] Ed
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  • navc130
    If the revolvers are brass frame they are of lower quality and you can expect problems with them. Some side-to-side movement of the cylinder is normal and should be safe to shoot, unless very excessive. The gap between the barrel and cylinder should be between .005 and .010 thousanths. If larger than that, it may be possible to shim the rear of the cylinder to force it forward.
    However, this MAY affect the lock-up of the cylinder because it has moved position. Usually they are SAFE to shoot with the problems you describe, but may be not accurate. Make sure the ball fits tight to prevent a multiple discharge from powder flash. Use a wad under or grease over the ball.
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  • Stradivarius
    Thank you for all your help guys. I know what to do now, and where to get what i need. You`` help is much apriciated.

    Stradivarius ( Sweden )
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  • v35
    With the Remington, unscrew the barrel and either machine the barrel shoulder or file the front of the frame enough to screw in the barrel one additional turn.
    Then file a small clearance on the barrel rear end to provide running clearance of about .1mm.
    Use grease on the cylinder pivot pin and if the revolver jams after a few slots, file the clearance a little more to about .15mm.
    Do it carefully with feeler gages.
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  • Stradivarius
    Thank you very much for that answer ( V35 ). It is very advanced at the same time simple BUT ! very effective.

    Best Regards

    Stradavarius [:D]
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