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Model 1899 savage .300

JRock40
I was just wondering if one you guys could date this gun for me. The numbers are 252188. It has the pistol grip in the stock with the checkered design and it's lever action. If there's more to know I would be happy to give necessary information. I would appreciate it.rifle.jpg
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10 comments

Date Votes
  • Permanently deleted user
    1923 according to http://www.savage99.com/savage99_dates.htm

    Sage 1
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  • JRock40
    quote:Originally posted by Sage1
    1923 according to http://www.savage99.com/savage99_dates.htm

    Sage 1

    I appreciate that Sage 1. Just wanted to know more about the gun for conversation purposes. Blessings.
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  • dfletcher
    I have a later version, same caliber. Interesting thing about the Savage 99 is that the lock up is generally considered stronger than other lever actions of the day and its spool type magazine allowed the use of more ballistically efficient pointed bullets than tubed lever actions.

    There should be a round counter located on the left side of the receiver.

    Savage also made proprietary cartridges in 22, 25, 30 and 303.

    Great little rifle. And if you take a look at the Ruger 96 you'll see that Bill Ruger liked the Savage design also.

    Edit - OK, I don't have the same thing because that's a takedown version and mine ain't ... [V]

    The gun can be broken down by pushing up the metal button on the forearm, removing it and then turning off the barrel.
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  • sandwarrior
    quote:Originally posted by dfletcher
    I have a later version, same caliber. Interesting thing about the Savage 99 is that the lock up is generally considered stronger than other lever actions of the day and its spool type magazine allowed the use of more ballistically efficient pointed bullets than tubed lever actions.

    There should be a round counter located on the left side of the receiver.

    Savage also made proprietary cartridges in 22, 25, 30 and 303.

    Great little rifle. And if you take a look at the Ruger 96 you'll see that Bill Ruger liked the Savage design also.


    The interesting thing is that with the stronger action it was the first American rifle to use high pressure smokeless loads for it's bullets (.303 Savage). Which performed better than the .30-30 and to nearly what the .30-40 Krag did. Both of which were conceived as black powder rounds then downloaded with smokeless powder to match the rifles they would be fired in. Albeit they were improvements over black powder.
    It was the first American rifle to have a standard load reach 3000 fps. (.250-3000) The later .300 Savage produced almost what the 30-06 could do. It was also the parent of the 7.62/.308. Not as most people think that the 7.62/.308 was derived from the 30-06. It was, indirectly, but it was through the .300 Savage. A shortened and improved case with the .30-06 case head (Mauser actually).

    It was literally unequalled in the lever action world at the time of it's invention (1893) and improvement (1895). Along came bolt actions in the Spanish-American war of 1898 and the gurus's who decide what we get fell head over heels for the Mauser style M1903/M1906 Rifle and .30 caliber system. IMO, bolt actions are better. Unlike lever actions, they understand force. But, it doesn't negate what this rifle had to offer at the time. And, still does offer.
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  • the yooper
    According to Douglas Murray's book, the only Savage manufactured in 1923 with checkering was the 99-G, unless it's a special order feature. If it is indeed a G, they were all takedown models. Does yours have a metal slide on the bottom of the forearm to remove the forearm? This is one of the reasons pictures are so important.
    yooper
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  • JRock40
    quote:Originally posted by the yooper
    According to Douglas Murray's book, the only Savage manufactured in 1923 with checkering was the 99-G, unless it's a special order feature. If it is indeed a G, they were all takedown models. Does yours have a metal slide on the bottom of the forearm to remove the forearm? This is one of the reasons pictures are so important.
    yooper

    I have a pic of the gun ready just as soon as I learn the procedure for posting pics. I am searching for the way to do it, but if given some direction before I find it, then all the better.
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  • sandwarrior
    JRock40,

    Congratulations! You have a takedown 99. Nice rifle.
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  • the yooper
    Yup, it's a 99-G. If you can show a picture of the receiver sight from the left sid, we can tell you if it's tang-mounted or drilled and tapped into the receiver and a better approximation of the value. It's getting more valuable with each picture.[:D] Incidentally, it's a second year of production gun for the 99-G.
    yooper
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  • the yooper
    If you're interested in attempting to disassemble it, FIRST open the action by moving the safety to the rear and dropping the lever. This moves the bolt to the rear which removes the extractor from its slot in the barrel. Then slide the button under the forearm to the rear, which will allow the forearm to be removed from the barrel. The barrel may then be unscrewed from the receiver. There are two types of threads on Savage barrels, full-thread and interrupted thread. Full thread means you must unscrew the barrel all the way, interrupted thread means you turn the barrel 1/2 turn and it pulls out of the receiver. If your rifle has not been disassembled in a long time, the barrel may need some Liquid Wrench or similar applied to the threads. DON'T FORCE ANYTHING!! Good luck.
    yooper
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  • JRock40
    quote:Originally posted by the yooper
    If you're interested in attempting to disassemble it, FIRST open the action by moving the safety to the rear and dropping the lever. This moves the bolt to the rear which removes the extractor from its slot in the barrel. Then slide the button under the forearm to the rear, which will allow the forearm to be removed from the barrel. The barrel may then be unscrewed from the receiver. There are two types of threads on Savage barrels, full-thread and interrupted thread. Full thread means you must unscrew the barrel all the way, interrupted thread means you turn the barrel 1/2 turn and it pulls out of the receiver. If your rifle has not been disassembled in a long time, the barrel may need some Liquid Wrench or similar applied to the threads. DON'T FORCE ANYTHING!! Good luck.
    yooper

    I doubt that I'll be trying to disassemble it. I'm no gun expert by any means and it's the only one I have. In this case, would you recommend buying a manual or stay on the safe side and find a gunsmith that is familiar with this gun? I'm not past learning the skill myself but any advice along the way is very happily taken.
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