Best way to remove a revolver barrel
I have ruined the threads on a few and was curious if there are any trade secrets that would helpful?
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-Make sure the revolver in question is a Dan Wesson designed for easy barrel interchange.
-Short of that, give it to a gunsmith who has the right tools, is experienced and knows what they are doing [;)]
I can't say I know any specific "trade secrets" other than the following:
Removing/replacing barrels from revolvers is actually much harder than it may seem. If the frame isn't properly supported during the removal process, its VERY easy to damage it (or the barrel) in removal. If the frame gets bent, the gun is effectively ruined.
The pros who do this use special tools, such as custom frame blocks to support the frame while removing the barrel. The cost of the tools is such that its not cost effective to buy them unless you plan to do a lot of guns.
The exact "tricks" necessary are going to vary from gun to gun. EG, removing the pin from the pinned and recessed Smiths has its own set of tricks.0 -
Smiths are the ones that seem the most problematic. I have most of the frame supports and specialty wrenches necssary, and I still on occasion damage the threads. Any suggestions? 0 -
Yes, I have a great deal of them to do. 0 -
Making the assumption that you have the specialized tools to do this, would soak the threaded joint in KROIL for at least 24 hrs. Use a hair dryer or heat gun to WARM the outer portion of the frame at the threads- but not the barrel. Some old time smiths have used paraffin (candle wax) that they apply to warmed joint- capillary attraction pulls it into the threads, and aids in release. Make certain the frame is supported properly in the blocks, apply steady pressure on the barrel wrench, and keep your fingers crossed. 0 -
have even used a contour gauge to match frame shape & cut oak pieces with bandsaw..two pieces around frame clamped in vise then used barrel vise to remove...if you are a hobbyist or only do occasionally brownell's tool are to expensive 0 -
Has anyone ever tried heating the frame then squirting CO2 down the barrel? One of those load dischargers for muzzleloaders would do it.I haven't done this-- just brainstorming. 0 -
"Smiths are the ones that seem the most problematic. I have most of the frame supports and specialty wrenches necssary, and I still on occasion damage the threads. Any suggestions?"
Yes. Tell us specifically what the problem is and stop beating around the bush. Describe the process you're using and what the problems are that you're encountering.
If you don't have all of the proper tools, buy them preferably or make them if you have the skill. If you don't have the understanding of how to use those tools properly, take the revolvers to a qualified gunsmith and let a professional handle the problem.
Best.0 -
My problem apparently rests with improper heating, I was heating the entire joint area. It looks like I also need to soak the parts in Kroil. What was happening was after getting the barrel started turning it would then bind and ruin threads. I think the soaking and heating just the frame will solve the problem. Thanks 11b6r!
quote:Originally posted by nononsense
"Smiths are the ones that seem the most problematic. I have most of the frame supports and specialty wrenches necssary, and I still on occasion damage the threads. Any suggestions?"
Yes. Tell us specifically what the problem is and stop beating around the bush. Describe the process you're using and what the problems are that you're encountering.
If you don't have all of the proper tools, buy them preferably or make them if you have the skill. If you don't have the understanding of how to use those tools properly, take the revolvers to a qualified gunsmith and let a professional handle the problem.
Best.0
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