Revolver Jamming
I have just bought a used 1858 replica made by pietta. i have no knowledge of the gun itself other than it was used for reinactments only and never had a ball through it. So when Shot it was the first real shot it had ever had. My problem is that after each shot the cylinder will not advanve because it peals a piece of lead off that gets stuck in between the cylinder and the barrel. Does anybody have any idaes as to why this would be happening?
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you might check to make sure barrel and cylinder are same caliber also the size of ball you are using .. check tth cylinder for timing... check the forcing cone on barrel it may be undersize 0 -
I got the gun checked out today and they said that the arm that holds the cylinder in place has to much slop in it and that there is realy nothing that canbe done about because the company that made the gun does not sell oversized parts to fix the wear and tear that has happened over the years. 0 -
The bolt holds the cylinder in place during firing. The "arm" you are referring to is called the pawl. It sounds like it was out of time from the day it was new and a "real" gunsmith can fix it, no problem. He might have to weld up and refit the bolt. If you buy a new pawl, they come long, so they can be tuned to where they need to be. Find a good revolver 'smith and he can fix it. 0 -
If the revolver is shaving lead from the ball in the chamber coming into battery, there is only one reason. The ball is not seated completely in the chamber. This is either because the ball was not seated correctly when loading, or because the ball is too small and is jumping forward in the chamber when the revolver recoils. The Pietta Remington requires a ball diameter of from .451 to .457. When the correct size ball is loaded into the cylinder it should fit tightly and may even remove a small ring of lead when loaded. You must be sure that the ball is seated slightly below the top of the chamber. 0 -
I believe he's saying that it is shaving lead when fired, that the chamber and barrel are not in alignment. 0 -
Yes, he is saying that the lead is shaved when the gun is fired, not when the gun is cocked. 0 -
I've got a brass framed 1858 that has an alignment problem
also.But I'm not sure if shaving the hand will help since the cylinder
bolt is also holding it tight and slightly off center.Mind you it's
only off by a sliver if you look down the bore.Would it be better to
shave the cylinder bolt also and make it loose so it would auto
adjust during firing?By that I mean,the cylinder could self-align as
the ball makes the jump from chamber to forcing cone?
I could be full of it[:o)]0 -
The cylinder won't self align, things are happening too quickly. If it locks into battery out of alignment then the bolt slots in the cylinder are cut in the wrong place. I'm not sure it would be worth the labor to fix it. It might be possible to widen the bolt in one direction to align it, that's why I say you need a real, good revolver man to check it out. They can do wonders. It's just a question of if you want to do $175 worth of work on a pistol barely worth that much.
I see Pietta C&B cylinders for sale on GB pretty regular. If you bought one, and a new bolt, you might get lucky and fix the problem with bolt ons and a little tinkering.0 -
Had a somewhat similar issue. Took a little metal off with a fine file and worked the action dry till it came clear... 0 -
It sounds like the hand is worn too short or the ratchet on the cylinder is worn or both, resulting in the cylinder not rotating
to the locking position as the gun is fired.
You may need either or both parts plus someone to fit them.
A decent gunsmith can build up worn parts with weld and file them to fit.0
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