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Cleaning a nickel-plated gun?

fiawol
What is the best way to clean (without actualling damaging the finish) a nickel-plated gun? I'm looking for something more effective than just running an oil-soaked cloth over it to remove powder residue. Thanks for any help or pointers.
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Comments

10 comments

Date Votes
  • Bill DeShivs
    You can use Hoppe's #9 solvent on your nickeled gun (if it is factory nickel.) Don't soak the gun in it for long periods. Just wipe it down well, and oil afterwards.
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  • Zinderbloc
    Flitz polish is the best nickel cleaner I've ever found. Amazing stuff.
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  • RCrosby
    Never owned anything nickel plated; just blue or stainless, but I've always been intrigued by the stories of Hoppe's #9 doing bad things to nickel plate. Old wives tales? If true, I think I'd steer clear of it, even in small quantities and wiped clean afterwards. Seems like there's a lot of places in a revolver that a little residue could hide.
    Anyone ever "lose" some nickel to #9??
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  • wild bunch guy
    lost the nickel on a Colt Python cyl. due to Hoppes #9. left it lay on a rag with #9 on it, the nickel started disappearing at the edges of the flutes on the cyl.



    WBG
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  • Bill DeShivs
    Flitz is abrasive, and should only be used very occasionally on nickel plate.
    Hoppe's won't damage nickel-probably even soaking in it. The Python cylinder was more likely worn on the edges.
    The ammonia in Hoppe's could, in theory, affect an aftermarket nickel plate that has a copper underplate. Even that is unlikely.
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  • RCrosby
    Interesting read on the Hoppe's web site re: this issue.
    "Prolonged contact with nickel or chrome plating is not recommended."
    They go on to explain that IF the steel was copper washed prior to being plated (apparently common practice)and if there was a scratched or worn place that allowed access to the underlying copper, "all hell could break loose." (My words, not theirs, but the it seems like that's where the danger lies.)
    Your call, but if it were my gun, I think I'd stay away from the Hoppe's.
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  • beantownshootah
    I've used "Metal Glo", which is similar to Flitz, and it worked well to take off the haze and leave a nice mirror finish.

    I assume its mildly abrasive and only use it occasionally.
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  • 32 Magnum
    I've used Metal Glo or Flitz on several hundred nickel plated guns and on a couple hundred more blued guns - as long as you use a SOFT cloth (I use pieces of an old worn flannel sheet) and do not exert strong pressure (I use the tip of my index finger) the abrasiveness is very minimal. On some very highly tarnished guns, two or three applications have been necessary. It will also remove surface rust. DO NOT EVER use either on case colored parts - it will remove the coloring very effectively - I learned the hard way.
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  • redman.com1
    after you use metal-glo or flizt, the best thing to bring out the shine or to buff one up is the inside of a old sweat shirt.
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  • wild bunch guy
    quote:Originally posted by RCrosby
    Interesting read on the Hoppe's web site re: this issue.
    "Prolonged contact with nickel or chrome plating is not recommended."
    They go on to explain that IF the steel was copper washed prior to being plated (apparently common practice)and if there was a scratched or worn place that allowed access to the underlying copper, "all hell could break loose." (My words, not theirs, but the it seems like that's where the danger lies.)
    Your call, but if it were my gun, I think I'd stay away from the Hoppe's.


    thats what you see, copper under the nickel


    WBG
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