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Hey Perry Shooter:1911/ 01918 question

Jeepflexin
Karl how do I distinguish a repo from the real deal? I'm going to look at one tomorrow that is supposed to be "black" and roughly 50-60% finish left.

Will the serial number tell me it is a reproduction? or will it have a 01918 model number on it? forgive my ignorance if this is an easy question, I only have Clawsons "little" book at this point so I'm limited on where to get accurate info. I know if any one knows you do.

BTW the asking price in it is $550.00 OBO so I could use a opinion on value for both a reproduction and an original. I'll post pics if I buy it for a more thorough opinion, but some ballparks would be helpful. Depending on its actual condition and value I may make it a project gun that gets "tricked out".

Thanks alot for your time.[:)]

~Pete~
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  • Jeepflexin
    You musta missed my call for help.[:D]

    No biggy, any insight is still apreciated; however the deal was a no deal, it was a poorly refinished gun and was devoid of any and all markings including serial numbers. I was able to make out a what appeared to be remnants of where the serial number used to be. I carefully wiped off my fingerprints and returned it to the owner with a polite "no thank you" and explained why.

    Still wouldn't mind knowing how the model 01918 is marked. If you have the time.
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  • perry shooter
    Hello Pete SORRY I missed your question . The original Military 1911 were finished in different ways The early ones were polished and very Smooth but It did not take long for the military and Colt realize that this was not the best finish for military firearms . The next finish was still Black but you can see Grain almost Like taking a piece of steel and with 240 grain sand paper sand in one direction only if you look at virgin 100 % original finish WW I guns you will see these fine lines running front to back along the sides of the slide and on he upper parts of the frame . However if you look at frame with grips removed You will see these fine lines go up and down in the grip frame area so a bare frame will have lines 90 degrees apart.If you don't see this 90 degree difference it brings up a red flag. The WWII parkerized gun are in some ways harder to tell . The baest way to tell on these is to look with magnifying glass and look at the stampings of letters numbers and inspector marks.It is very hard to refinish and re-Park without making these marks Washed out. Just like all Lugers up to the time they started HOT BLUING them they used a rust blue method so if you see a WWI or early WW II P08 and you take the Barrel /Toggle off the grip frame and the inside of the pistol is BLUED then it has been refinished . People Like TURNBULL can restore many different types of firearms to where it is VERY hard to near impossible to tell if a firearm is refinished . AT these times you need to measure things like frame width and slide width to see if they are within spec. or surface ground and re-stamped. The saving grace is MOST people that refinish do a quick & dirty job and don't watch for details. I am far from being an expert But I do enjoy looking at as many military and civilian models of 1911 type pistols and after looking at 100's of pistols you learn what to look for . The problem as I see it is the Higher the Value could be if original the harder it is to tell if it has been refinished by a very good restorer.
    . I very seldom buy a 100% gun I like a 80% to 95% guns for 2 reasons # 1 reason I want to shoot my guns not have a bunch of SAFE QUEENS you can shoot a 95% gun for many rounds if you treat it properly without changing it's condition. #2 reason is because it really take a sharp crook to refinish then spend the time to put some wear back on a firearm . Most are so greedy they want the big bucks of selling a 100% gun. Sorry about being so long winded I just felt I needed to explain why I think as I do. Cheers Karl "PRAISE THE HARD-BALL GUN"
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