1885 Winchester Assembly
Hi,
A few days ago my uncle gave me an 1885 in 25 W.C.F. DOM 1893 from what I've found researching the serial number. It's spent the last 35-40 years in a damp basement after giving up it's stock and forearm to another project. I was mostly bored and spent the last couple days dis-assembling it and cleaning it up. First thoughts being I'd just sell it as parts. After cleaning it up and seeing the bore I just can't make myself do it. I'll find some wood for it and and at least shoot it a few times.
First a couple pictures of before and after.
My question has to do with the springs in the action. In particular the knock off spring. (you can see it at the top of last picture) Looking at the drawings you find on the web it appears this spring should have a solid base and run a screw through the bottom tang into it. The spring in this one isn't like that. It's just a thin spring with no threads and I don't see a screw threading through it and holding it. The screw wasn't in there when I got it. Can anybody tell me where I can get this screw and how it attaches?
The sear spring is also like that on the net drawings you find. Shows the spring with a thick base and the sear spring screw running through the top of the receiver into it. This one again is a thin spring. Same thickness the entire lentght. Instead of the screw running down through the top of the receiver it has one that threaded from the bottom to attach the spring and doesn't protrude out the top. There is a hole tapped further up but just had a plug screw in it. Where there changes at some point in the design?
Thanks in advance for any input.
R.
A few days ago my uncle gave me an 1885 in 25 W.C.F. DOM 1893 from what I've found researching the serial number. It's spent the last 35-40 years in a damp basement after giving up it's stock and forearm to another project. I was mostly bored and spent the last couple days dis-assembling it and cleaning it up. First thoughts being I'd just sell it as parts. After cleaning it up and seeing the bore I just can't make myself do it. I'll find some wood for it and and at least shoot it a few times.
First a couple pictures of before and after.
My question has to do with the springs in the action. In particular the knock off spring. (you can see it at the top of last picture) Looking at the drawings you find on the web it appears this spring should have a solid base and run a screw through the bottom tang into it. The spring in this one isn't like that. It's just a thin spring with no threads and I don't see a screw threading through it and holding it. The screw wasn't in there when I got it. Can anybody tell me where I can get this screw and how it attaches?
The sear spring is also like that on the net drawings you find. Shows the spring with a thick base and the sear spring screw running through the top of the receiver into it. This one again is a thin spring. Same thickness the entire lentght. Instead of the screw running down through the top of the receiver it has one that threaded from the bottom to attach the spring and doesn't protrude out the top. There is a hole tapped further up but just had a plug screw in it. Where there changes at some point in the design?
Thanks in advance for any input.
R.
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Wait for Bert H. he is THE MAN on this model firearm. 0 -
You are missing two pieces; (1) the screw, and (2) the drilled & tapped (threaded) flat square steel block that sits on top of the thin flat spring.
The early production Model 1885s did use a knock-off spring that has a much thicker base, and was threaded.
As for the sear spring & screw, there were three types used (your rifle has the third & most common type). The 1st type was a thick-based spring that was drilled & tapped (threaded) at the base, and the screw entered and secured it from the exterior of the upper tang. The 2nd type was a thin flat spring, with the screw entering & securing it from the bottom side of the upper tang, extending up through the upper tang. The 3rd type used the same thin flat spring, but the screw was shorter and went into a blind hole.
Last comment, your old low-wall is chambered for the 25-20 Single Shot (S.S.) cartridge versus the now more common 25-20 W.C.F. (repeater) cartridge. I can provide you with the exact date of manufacture with the serial number.0 -
Bert, Thanks so much. Makes perfect sense. Local gun show this weekend so I'll get out and do some parts looking.
I'm a bit let down in that its the .25-20 single shot. Guess I'll have to dust off all the old loading equipment when I get it ready to shoot.
Serial # is 64062. #1 barrel, W.C.F stamped under the main spring along with a 3.
Couple more questions. Note the "dents" around the upper tang before the block. It almost appears that someone has taken a ball peen hammer to it. Just wondering if there is a reason someone would do that?
Are there differences in stocks for a high wall vs. a low wall. Do I need to find a forearm for a #1 barrel specifically?0 -
Model 1885 serial number 64062 is listed as follows;
Date received: April 24th, 1894
Type: Rifle
Caliber: 25/20
Barrel: Octagon, 28" #1
Trigger: Plain
Sold: May 11th, 1894
Order: 13424
I have no idea why someone would have been pounding on any Model 1885 with a hammer.
Yes, there are differences in the stock dimensions between a high-wall and your low-all, and Yes, you need to find one that is inletted for a No. 1 contour barrel.0 -
One more question. Borrowing a picture from the auction. The hole beside the barrel thread. I noticed on the rifle I borrowed the wood from there is a screw and maybe a small block under it here. It's not shown on the drawing I have. Is it necessary? What is if for? I'm thinking something to lock the barrel?
Thanks so much for the help. Have it all back together. Stole the wood off another one to complete it, since it's a restored one I'll buy new wood for it. I love how it turned out. She's a keeper!
Thanks for pointing out the 25 wcf cartridge being the single shot. Confusing as hell and I would have wound up with some reloading dies and brass that wouldn't have worked.0 -
quote:Originally posted by KySilverado
One more question. Borrowing a picture from the auction. The hole beside the barrel thread. I noticed on the rifle I borrowed the wood from there is a screw and maybe a small block under it here. It's not shown on the drawing I have. Is it necessary? What is if for? I'm thinking something to lock the barrel?
Thanks so much for the help. Have it all back together. Stole the wood off another one to complete it, since it's a restored one I'll buy new wood for it. I love how it turned out. She's a keeper!
Thanks for pointing out the 25 wcf cartridge being the single shot. Confusing as hell and I would have wound up with some reloading dies and brass that wouldn't have worked.
The threaded hole is for an extractor spring retaining screw. The low-wall was predominantly made in rimfire caliber/cartridges, and those that were made in .22 caliber (22 BB, 22 Short, 22 Long, 22 Extra Long, 22 Long Rifle, and 22 W.R.F.) were equipped with a kicking extractor (with the corresponding spring). To save time & effort, all low-wall frames were milled for the extractor spring and tapped for the screw... even if ordered in a centerfire caliber (such as your rifle was).
You are quite welcome[:D]0
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