Moly Gun Lube
Is this a good choice for a revolver? After using it in a Makarov, the slide wouldn't stay open for long after the last shot.
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CONFUSED a revolver does not have a slide[?][?] Most hand-guns do well with oils not grease. If this is a semi auto pistol then it would have a slide and if the slide normally stays back after last shot then it sounds like the cool temps and grease is slowing the slide down "not going all the way back under recoil or weak ammo or shooter LIMP WRIST the pistol. 0 -
Whatever you want. Firearms need no lubrication other than corrosion resistance. Oils & grease oxidize over time. 0 -
"Firearms need no lubrication other than corrosion resistance. Oils & grease oxidize over time.".........wth?? every firearm is a 'machine', every machine needs lubrication. While 'moly' lubes do work, they are 'messy', I prefer a good grade of gun oil. 0 -
I prefer greaseless lubricants like Otis Dry Lube. 0 -
Sorry for the confusion. I tried the moly in my Makarov and had the issues I described in my original post. This prompted my question if it woould be good in a revolver.
The moly gun lube is a spray with a carrier that evaporates like the graphite sprays for guns and locks. Moly isn't a grease but is supposed to "work" its way into the metal the same way it does in bore when the bore is treated with moly.
Yes it is a bit messy since it will run onto the gun surface and dries a shade of grey. However, with a rag handy, it can be wiped off.
I just don't know if it is an effective lube for a gun's action parts or if I should switch back to a gun oil or a graphite product.
Before posting I searched through all of he old posts. There were may discussions over which was better, a good oil (including regular and synthetic), greases, slick lube (if you can find it), Ed's Red, etc. However, moly wasn't covered.0 -
When someone shoots a gun stuff gets left and is usually attracted to a wet surface. Bullets are lubed to mainly reduce fouling of the bore. Some bullets have dry lube coats for feed & terminal ballistics. Jacketing a bullet with copper , bronze, & brass somewhat cleans as it goes this is why machine guns can belt feed without blowing the barrel. Dry lubes are better than wet ones except for cleaning. There are many different lubes for many different purposes. Your car engine needs hydrolic support to act as a heat carrying bearing as your gun does not due to the fact it doesn't auto-lubricate it's self. When there's and oil pump then you need to worry about oil. Guns need a corrosion inhibitor that penetrates the carbon off & cleans the micro surfaces of the parts. Springs typically are the driving force for function and do need to be replaced time & time again. If the micro finish is too rough, stone it. As I stated earlier guns need no lubrication other than corrosion resistance unless there is some other reason. Many people fail to realize types of metal & their hardnessess directly manage wear. So whatever you would like to use that makes you happy is what you should use keep en eye on that gun and it'll last. 0 -
My take
-You'll get less wear and tear on your gun and more efficient function with a LITTLE lube in ANY gun to help reduce friction between moving parts and to reduce corrosion.
Yes, ideally every part is stoned to a mirror finish and hardened to prevent wear and friction is minimized, etc, but in the real world, this isn't always possible or practical.
-When it comes to lubrication, in general less is more. Too much lube can attract dirt and congeal in the wrong places. For lube purposes, in general you only need a touch where metal rubs against metal.
-For handguns liquid lube (rather than grease) is probably preferable.
-For revolvers, in general the only lubrication you really need is a teensy bit on the ejector rod. Smith and Wesson recommends a small drop onto the hammer mechanism now and then. For most shooters, you do not (ever) need to take off the revolver sideplates and lubricate the lockwork of the gun.
Is Moly good? Don't know, never used it, but I'm sure it will do the job. In just an ordinary pistol action, I'm skeptical that it offers any real advantage over other (cheaper) lubes.
Personally speaking, I just use CLP on all my handguns. The US military spent a gazillion dollars testing and developing the stuff in hot and cold temperatures, salt water, etc; its been around for 30+ years and is tried and true; its relatively inexpensive and readily available; and I've never had a problem with it.
While I concede that there probably are "better" dedicated lubes out there, I doubt for my purposes they are going to offer any real world advantages, since they'll likely cost more and offer less corrosion resistance.0
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