reloading question .45 ACP
I recently bought a H&R Reising model 50 and a good freind has offered to reload for me on a ongoin basis. It is my first venture into the world of owning a submachine gun. I have about 1500 new .45 ACP UMC rounds and several hundred Winchester White box .45 ACP plus a mix master box of about 2,000 mostly one time used brass. I planned to reload only 230 grain ball ammo but unsure of the best primer and powder to use for this set up. I would think the load would be somewhere in the middle of minimum and maximum. Does anyone reload for sub guns that could offer advice on a practical load to start with? Thanks
Edit: Thanks Perryshooter, I talked with a Reising owner that told me cast lead bullets were the way to go also. I know how much care it takes to avoid problems but accidents can happen. I have fired a couple of thousand 22-250 reloads my buddy has done for me without a problem so far. I have my fingers crossed on the .45 ACP's.
Edit: 62 fuelie the problems with the Reising are well documented and in most cases not to bad to correct. It is a complicated close bolt design so it has to be clean. Also the original firing pin was not designed as an inertia type firing pin but is easily modified to work as one. Springs are another issue but Wolff and Ken Christie have kits to replace those. Obviously better more modern materials can improve the original design. Thank goodness for the bad press and bad experiences on these old war horses or I couldn't afford a C&R Title II firearm. From what I have found, direct from the horse's mouth, is that well tuned Reisings provide all the fun one needs to have at the range. My biggest concern at this point is affordable and safe ammo so I can give it a good workout. Thanks
My main concern is coming up with a solution for affordable safe ammo so I can use it without breaking the bank.
EDIT: I found a local man that has quite a few boxes of USGI ammo, most of the boxes are brittle and falling apart and quite a few of the rounds stored in coffee cans have a "green" look to them. Looks like the manufacturing date on most is in 1943. I'm guessing there is more than a 1,000 rounds. I am going to clean up and try firing a few of these in my Ruger P-90 this week end to see if they work.
Edit: Thanks Perryshooter, I talked with a Reising owner that told me cast lead bullets were the way to go also. I know how much care it takes to avoid problems but accidents can happen. I have fired a couple of thousand 22-250 reloads my buddy has done for me without a problem so far. I have my fingers crossed on the .45 ACP's.
Edit: 62 fuelie the problems with the Reising are well documented and in most cases not to bad to correct. It is a complicated close bolt design so it has to be clean. Also the original firing pin was not designed as an inertia type firing pin but is easily modified to work as one. Springs are another issue but Wolff and Ken Christie have kits to replace those. Obviously better more modern materials can improve the original design. Thank goodness for the bad press and bad experiences on these old war horses or I couldn't afford a C&R Title II firearm. From what I have found, direct from the horse's mouth, is that well tuned Reisings provide all the fun one needs to have at the range. My biggest concern at this point is affordable and safe ammo so I can give it a good workout. Thanks
My main concern is coming up with a solution for affordable safe ammo so I can use it without breaking the bank.
EDIT: I found a local man that has quite a few boxes of USGI ammo, most of the boxes are brittle and falling apart and quite a few of the rounds stored in coffee cans have a "green" look to them. Looks like the manufacturing date on most is in 1943. I'm guessing there is more than a 1,000 rounds. I am going to clean up and try firing a few of these in my Ruger P-90 this week end to see if they work.
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Due to the ever ascending value of legal, Class 3, submachine guns. I would reconsider using reloads in it. One screw up with a double/triple load of powder and your $5,000+ toy will be reduced to a pile of junk. 0 -
230 grain with 5.0 grains of Bulls-Eye powder. be aware the chamber on these guns may be large and effort to resize fired cases may be tough. Good luck I would find a good 4 cavity mold block and load with lead bullets this can save both the barrel and $$$ 0 -
We had one of these as a department weapon. No matter what we fed it it was NEVER reliable. It would jam in all ways possible - double feeds (probable mag defect), failure to eject, feed failure (bullet nose striking the chamber mouth. We finally made it a part of the department history display after an ATF dewat. Also had a transition - 1927 to M-1 - Thompson that was a dream to fire. 0 -
I also agree with Rufe-Snow re- no reloads.
I have a sweet 1921A Thompson that Tracy Hill suggested I NEVER shoot anything but USGI hardball,{ or equivalent, I guess.}
He also suggested I change the barrel, actuator, etc, before shooting it, but, because it is now part of my retirement fund, I left it alone.
I can "Rock'nRoll" with an M16, or Sten, when I can find a place to shoot.
The M60 is also out of the question anymore, also!!!0 -
I would shoot the Lyman #452374 225 grain RN bullet pushed by 6.0 grains of Unique. 0 -
I also agree with Ruff-Snow! 0 -
I got to shoot a M3 Greasegun, was so slow I could shoot it single shot. Holding the trigger back I could get about half the stick downrange before I had to stop or be shooting straight up.
The Thompson on the the other hand was very fast. If you put in a second bucker plate it gets even faster. My dad told me the only to control one was to unhook the rear sling, legenthen it out and step on it.
I got to try a supressed Usi in 45acp. It digested lyman 452374 on top of 4.5 gr Bulleye just fine.
I know that the only I could afford to feed a sub gun is to load for it.0 -
Be sure to clean with a Good military Bore cleaner that is made for corrosive primed ammo You don't want to ruin a barrel that may be hard to replace. 0
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