S&W 37 Airweight repairs
...I have a 37 Airweight, ser. #279595. It has a broken trigger
pivot pin. The pin appears to be aluminum, as is the frame. S&W
says they no longer have the part, though we got one from Brownells,
as NOS. Anyone ever run into this problem? I don't know that I'll
ever have faith in an aluminum pin.
...S&W says to send them the gun and part, and they will install. I
wonder if they will refinish the frame in the process? Any ideas on a date of birth for this ser. number?.........Thanks.
pivot pin. The pin appears to be aluminum, as is the frame. S&W
says they no longer have the part, though we got one from Brownells,
as NOS. Anyone ever run into this problem? I don't know that I'll
ever have faith in an aluminum pin.
...S&W says to send them the gun and part, and they will install. I
wonder if they will refinish the frame in the process? Any ideas on a date of birth for this ser. number?.........Thanks.
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Close as the S & W book comes for DOM would be early 60's,
(if it's the one without the "J" prefix).
Model 37's are made for easy carrying, not alot shooting. Had one years ago of the same vintage. Went out of time from very little shooting on my part. If S & W fixes it, get rid of it and buy something descent that will hold up.0 -
...It was the off duty gun of a long gone LEO. I doubt it was shot much. I've stuck to light wadcutter loads, with maybe ten rounds of +P, which I kept in it. Smith will charge for the repairs, which is fine, but I still find it odd that they used aluminum for the pin. The broken pin will need to be drilled out of the frame.
...I really like the gun, but if they install a new pin, it will stick out like a sore thumb unless re-finished.0 -
According to the Standard Catalog of Smith & Wesson by Supica/Nahas, your gun was made around 1960 (no exact date is available).
I believe that the only aluminum part in your gun is the frame. There would no measurable weight savings in using aluminum pins, so there would be no point. Especially since S&W had already decided that aluminum cylinders in this model were no longer feasible.
There will always be a market for lightweight revolvers for those of us who find the weight of an all steel model objectionable, especially if we shoot moderate loads, & those only on rare occasions.
I don't know S&W's current repair procedure, but it makes sense to send your gun to them; they won't get half way into a repair before deciding that your gun cannot be made safe & reliable. You can always include in your letter the statement: OBTAIN AUTHORIZATION BEFORE PERFORMING ANY REPAIRS. Most repair facilities will inspect your gun & get your permission to perform repairs; I'd be surprised if they were different.
Neal0 -
quote:Originally posted by tapwater
...I have a 37 Airweight, ser. #279595. It has a broken trigger
pivot pin. The pin appears to be aluminum, as is the frame. S&W
says they no longer have the part, though we got one from Brownells,
as NOS. Anyone ever run into this problem? I don't know that I'll
ever have faith in an aluminum pin.
...S&W says to send them the gun and part, and they will install. I
wonder if they will refinish the frame in the process? Any ideas on a date of birth for this ser. number?.........Thanks.
I'm pretty sure the pin is steel, not aluminium. I know this isn't the most expedient approach, but I would send it to Smith. I've replaced a hammer pin or two, but that was on older all steel models.
Regarding a refinish, the problem I see is unscrewing the steel barrel from the alloy frame. I presume that would have to be done, doing so can be a problem given the very small amount of material about the barrel and yoke area. Unscrewing the barrel could crack the frame in that area.0 -
I would dab a little cold blue on the end of the pin and move on. 0 -
This is the result of cycling the revolver with its' sideplate removed.
I've read of repairs to trigger and hammer pins but unless you're a toolmaker or are good at precision machinework, leave it to S&W.
I've had one since '58 or 59 and keep Glasers in an aluminum cylinder I got for it.
While someone on this site spoke of loosened or broken M37s, I wrote Elmer Keith about its strength. He tested one with 500 rds of 38-44 loads and pronounced it safe.I still have his letters on a number of
handgun issues. He was my hero in handgun knowledge and I value his empirical findings.
I did modify mine though by installing a hardened steel bushing
in the frame where the cylinder locking pin was gouging the hole.
Additionally, I removed the forward cylinder latch and installed a three inch ejector rod that fully ejects empties.This eliminates a fault S&W should have taken care of.
While forward latches are nice and triple locks nicer (Charter uses one), Colt got by without one for all its' history.0 -
quote:Originally posted by v35
While someone on this site spoke of loosened or broken M37s, I wrote Elmer Keith about its strength. He tested one with 500 rds of 38-44 loads and pronounced it safe.
Horse-Pucky! What the heck was his definition of safe?
I like to know what old Elmer was sipping on when he wrote you that letter. My present libation isn't doing the job it once did. Whatever he was drinking, is what I need.
This hokum about 500 rounds through a Model 37, is on par with his 600 yard off hand shot with a Model 29 on a Elk.0 -
...From someone who should know;
Its an aluminum pin, the magnet doesn't stick to it, and if it were stainless the material needed to allow it to be rivited would be magnetic. Some stainless alloys are non magnetic, but cannot be cold worked (riviting). Brownells says this replacement part is OE S&W. Yes you can crack the frame removing the barrel, if you don't remove the staking pin first, the most common mistake backyard gunsmiths make doing this. All manner of jigs and wrenches are available to remove the barrel, but the common one is a big square piece of oak stuck thru the frame and a proper barrel wrench with the leather lining. The oak handle wouldn't be used on this one as it's aluminum, they actually would use the form fitting one to straddle the frame to keep any chances of deformation from occuring. Revolver barrels really aren't that tight, hence the pin. once it starts to turn the barrel seat moves away from the frame so there is little or no scrapeage. I have changed several myself, no big deal, and you do have to check cylinder to rear of barrel clearance when you are done, any discrepancy is remedied with a cutter or a file, and there are usually none.0 -
Realistically, can you imagine the life of the trigger stud (S&W's nomenclature for the part) if it were aluminum? Bearing against the trigger and hammer springs during D/A firing?
The trigger is hardened steel. Mating that with any hardness aluminum doesn't make sense!
...send it into S&W
Best, Joe
EDIT
Numrich part number for the M37 trigger stud is 305870B0 -
You have been given great advice so far. Send it to S&w, have them fix it, and then dump it and get a model 360. You will be much further ahead.
Best0
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