Checkering advice
One of my hobbies is refinishing guns. Don't worry its never anything of value right now I'm working on an IAB 12 ga O/U. I usually recut the existing lines of the original checkering. Every now and then, usually while pulling back with the first cut gunline tool I cross a line.
I have a terrible time fixing these and most often my attempts to set the line staight just makes it worse. Is there a special tool you pull out in those spots?
The 2nd problem I have is tight corners. I have a very hard time keeping these lines parallel and not crossing the outside line. How do you cut the inside corners?
I have a terrible time fixing these and most often my attempts to set the line staight just makes it worse. Is there a special tool you pull out in those spots?
The 2nd problem I have is tight corners. I have a very hard time keeping these lines parallel and not crossing the outside line. How do you cut the inside corners?
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I would hazard a guess and say that even Blevins and Shelhammer experienced overruns early on.
Though it may not be the best tool I found a veiner to be my best option to avoid overruns.0 -
You can buy any checkering tool your heart desires from Brownells. 0 -
A general purpose tool I made is triangle file with two sides grond flat and the flat end canted back a few degrees. Wi care it is used as a graver to approach dead ends. It can help solve some problems.
While on the subject is repair of damages and mistakes. I mix a paste of clear epoxy glue and sawdust. You can vary the color with different woods or add color. Epoxy accepts most any color that is not water based. You fill the damaged area and when it hardens, file it to level with the surrounding checks, then re-checker the new epoxy area. It checkers well and invisible repairs are possible.
I never took any pictures of small repairs but here is an area job I did. It had been a secure but sloppy fix of a broken pistol grip with cross-bolts showing. I cleaned the area, coated it with epoxy-sawdust paste and checkered it - one of the few full checkering jobs I ever did.
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nice workquote:Originally posted by rhmc24
A general purpose tool I made is triangle file with two sides grond flat and the flat end canted back a few degrees. Wi care it is used as a graver to approach dead ends. It can help solve some problems.
While on the subject is repair of damages and mistakes. I mix a paste of clear epoxy glue and sawdust. You can vary the color with different woods or add color. Epoxy accepts most any color that is not water based. You fill the damaged area and when it hardens, file it to level with the surrounding checks, then re-checker the new epoxy area. It checkers well and invisible repairs are possible.
I never took any pictures of small repairs but here is an area job I did. It had been a secure but sloppy fix of a broken pistol grip with cross-bolts showing. I cleaned the area, coated it with epoxy-sawdust paste and checkered it - one of the few full checkering jobs I ever did.0 -
Indeed it is!
Tom[:)]0 -
Two very good checkering questions indeed. When I cross the line, the tool tends to want to continue to follow. This is when I pull out the following tool, it does 2 lines at once. I get the groove back and then hit it with the single line checkering tool both ways until the mistake dissapears.
Secondly those tight inside corners are a bear. I use the small cutter that cuts on the pull stroke, usually used to keep from over running.
I hope a pro will chime in and let us know how he/she does it.0 -
Goods points from above. Be sure your cutters are sharp,dull ones will jump lines and are uncontrollable. If you are going to do this a lot buy the carbide cutters. I space my lines up to 1/8" or less to the border and then use a tool that cuts on the pull stroke. You can lay the tip of the cutter right at the border and pull away without worrying about runovers.
Like the ol' boy said..."keep the nose of the cutter in the groove like a dog's nose on a scent trail"..or close to that anyway.
Best of luck.0
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