Belted case problem
Ok now I know why I dont like belted cases. I have a Savage 7mm mag that shoots awesome. The problem is that reloading the cases causes it to become weak just in front of the belt. This has caused separation or near separation on several of them after only 3-4 reloads. The loads are not even close to maximum. Is there a way to get more life from the cases as I realize that full length resizing is the issue? Just neck sizing Im thinking will cure most of the issue but I dont want to spend another $40-50 on dies. Thanks for any ideas.
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you can neck size with your FL die. I use machinist dye on the neck of a fired case to set the die.. Screw the die down till you barely touch the top of the shoulder when running the brass into the die.then set lock ring. I believe then in theory you will headspace off the shoulder rather than the belt. However I dont have a belted magnum so I cant say this with the utmost certainty.[:)] 0 -
You might try making up some dummy rounds with once fired brass. By trial and error only full length resize enough so the the cartridge will feed through the magazine and chamber correctly.
Mark the settings on the resizing die. Load up some rounds with your standard loads, and see how the brass holds up. You might also try a different brand of brass. I have found in the past problems with Remington brass, so use Winchester and Federal if at all possible.0 -
Every rifle has its own maxium. Just because the data in a book says your load isn't max doesn't make it a fact. Are you sure you are not jamming the bullets in to lands or that you cases aren't to long for your chamber to start with? If you look close at your cases you can adjust fl dies to neck size only usually a gap between the die and shell holder of about the thickness of a nickel is about right. A belted case should headspace on the belt not the shoulder so neck sizing shouldn't make any difference but hey it's worth a try. You might try a different brand of brass. I would also consider having the head space checked. 0 -
Belted cases and the 7mm in particular are notorious for head separations. I neck up new brass to .30 cal. in a .300 magnum die and then incrementally neck them back down in the 7mm sizer untill I get a mild crush fit in my chamber. I know it sounds like a hassle but it only has to be done once and, after that, make sure that your sizer does no more than touch the shoulder and you're good to go--the cases last as long as any others. Neck sizing won't help since your cases are stretching on the first firing. If you don't have a .300 sizer, maybe you can borrow one from a friend. 0 -
You're pushing the case shoulder back too much when resizing. Adjust the sizing die so your cases will chamber snugly. What is happening is the case headspaces on the belt but there is space at the shoulder area allowing the forward part of the case to stretch to meet the shoulder of the chamber.While headspacing on the belt is usually OK for factory ammo, it doesn't work with reloads(at least not for long). 0 -
telohf,
When normally full length resizing cases, that is about all you are going to get out of them.
As suggested, neck size them, headspacing off the shoulder, and you'll get more life out of them. I got as many as 10 reloads with my .300 Win Mag doing that. If not, don't full size them down as much as you are now. That'll save on case life too. I've done that with several non-belted cases.
I also backed the loads off to moderate. Some people don't understand doing that. But, by giving up 100 fps I probably saved the barrel for 1000 rounds more accuracy. Competition level accuracy anyways. I wouldn't change the barrel out on a hunting rifle unless accuracy had degraded substantially more.0 -
I have a 7mm rem mag that I have had problems with recently. I bought some once fired brass that was over pressered I think. They were swollen just above the belt and stuck in my chamber.
I use neck sizing die only to reload. After about 6 reloads I will have to full length because the shoulder will need set back after that many reloads.
Best of luck, just buy a neck die from LEE & problems over with.0 -
Thanks for all the advice and it looks like I will try the neck sizing only thing. Also I usually use Remington and Winchester brass but is there anything thats alot better(for a decent price). I know Nosler and Norma make great brass but would they be better in the long run as the price is about double normal. Thanks. T 0 -
I went to Super X(Win) brass only. I had Fed and Rem cases but the cases density was different.
One thing I want to clarify, you will not be able to use neck sizing die ALL the time. Eventually (about 6 loads) you will need to use the full length to get the shoulder back in spec's so the cartrige will load into the chamber.
I know Norma is much better brass. They say you won't have as much case prep to uniform the brass. You'll just need to price it and see if you think it is a good trade off for quality vs. time to prep cases.0 -
telohf,
Your problem is typical of firing light or reduced loads.
This can happen if the chamber is close to max tollerance & the brass is minimum sized. The force of the firing pin drives the case forward in the chamber, firing pressure locks the sides & as pressure builds to it's max, the rear of the case is stretched back to the bolt face.
Above advice is spot on: neck up, neck size only enough to chamber, fire form (use standard primers because they require less strike force) & neck size from there.
Hope this helps, Jim0 -
telohf,
"Your problem is typical of firing light or reduced loads.
This can happen if the chamber is close to max tollerance & the brass is minimum sized. The force of the firing pin drives the case forward in the chamber, firing pressure locks the sides & as pressure builds to it's max, the rear of the case is stretched back to the bolt face."
This concept only occurs with rimless bottle neck cases without belts. The belt prevents this action from taking place in the chamber.
Any of the commonly available brass belted cases will work just fine when handled properly, annealed when necessary and neck sized for your chamber's headspace. Using the shoulder for headspace to prevent the case separations is the proper methodology. You do NOT have to resort to spending outrageous amounts of money on the Nosler or Norma products to have your brass last a reasonable number of reloads.
"...but I dont want to spend another $40-50 on dies."
But you're willing to dispose of improperly sized brass? Some things don't make sense...
Hornady makes all types and sizes of dedicated neck sizing dies for about $25.00 each and they are not cartridge (case) specific but caliber specific. This means you can use the .30 caliber die for nearly every .30 caliber cartridge. I have found these on sale for as little $12.00/ea. from sales sheets and online e-mail sales notices. Bushing dies will accomplish the same result but usually cost more in the long run.
Good Luck! Let us know how your project turn out.
Best.0
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