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Bedding

keystone1974
Can a remington model seven factory stock be glass bedded. I think i read something about thier being a problem with the injection molded stocks.

Thanks
John
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10 comments

Date Votes
  • keystone1974
    A few years ago Nononsense answered a bunch of questions for me on my quest for long-range hunting accuracy. I now have a special relationship with my Remington Sendero SF II , picinany base, nightforce rings and scope. I put hash marks in the receiver and the base and epoxyed them together. A few times lately Tsr1965 has mentioned bedding the action to Even the H.S. Aluminum bedded stock. I was thinkin I would like to try this... I think. My gun and I are getting 5-7 inch groups at 660 yds shooting prone with legs and a rear sand bag. Thanks for ur time
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  • nononsense
    keystone1974,

    Glass bedding on pillars or aluminum blocks like the HS stocks, is mandatory in my opinion. I've written several detailed posts regarding the theory and the process. These can be found by using the search button in the top right corner of every page.

    The reason for bedding the aluminum block in the HS is that the machining of the block will never match the contour of the action exactly. Any unevenness in the contact results in stresses which cause inaccuracy. Therefore we bed the action to match the block exactly and stress-free.

    Here is a previous post:

    Glass bedding the receiver provides a stress-free consistency and repeatability for the barreled action. Pillar bedding is even better since it precludes any crushing of the stock when the receiver and bottom metal are screwed together. If you want to free float a barrel, free float the whole barrel, it doesn't weigh enough to stress the thread tenon in most cases to be aided by a 1" or 4" pad under the breech. The pad under the breech is just what some folks get used to doing. It's not going to hurt anything but it might not be helping either.

    Probabilities are merely mathematical games that folks play with numbers to support a point. Each rifle is a system unto itself and needs to be analyzed as a single entity. Not all rifles respond to the same bedding compound let alone the same bedding techniques. There are general guidelines (which have already been stated) that can get you started but it still requires test shooting to determine the proper techniques to use or, sometimes more importantly, which ones not to use.

    The biggest problem is the total number of variables that exist within the rifle. Is the barrel even worth keeping, is the chamber straight, is it round, is the barrel threaded on straight, on and on. So bedding alone is not the only answer in some cases. A proper gunsmith looks at the entire rifle first and tries to determine if there is anything really significant that needs fixing first simply because it's a waste of time and the customer's money to bed a rifle with a bad barrel or poorly cut chamber.

    A general consensus is to bed the receiver, making sure that it's straight, level and unstressed in the stock, and to completely free float the barrel. This is a generic solution which can be applicable to most factory rifles. It's fast, easy and relatively inexpensive to have done or to do yourself.

    Types of bedding compounds are as varied as the opinions as to bedding techniques, everyone has a favorite. Two-part epoxies are the best and I use Marine-Tex. But successful bedding can be accomplished when using one of several other products.

    I suggest using a search engine to find some of the illustrations that are featured in discussions about glass bedding. There are probably several videos on that tubular website. Study up on the variations then let us know where you need some assistance.

    Best.
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  • keystone1974
    Asz ALWAYS YOU are a great man with a Wealth of knowledge tha you don't seem to mind sharing .. Even more than once.. The things I've learned on this website I've already shared with my friends and family ... Thank You Very much Nononsense
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  • tsr1965
    keystone1974,

    My Sendero SF II, in 300 RUM was my first go at a bedding block. I actually treated it as I do any pillar bedding that I do, and bed both, the bottom metal, and the action to the block. Nononsense has explained, much better than I ever could, of why, and how we do that. Also pay special attention to torquing the bolts that hold your action in the stock. Once they are torqued to the proper setting(and you will have to experiment to find that...usually between 50-60 INCH-POUNDS), the stock merely becomes a handle to hold the rifle by, while the pillers/block, bottom metal, and action are supporting the barrel, stress free.

    I also had to do a couple other things, as the throat was very long for my taste, and provided way to much freebore. Adjusting the trigger, or replacing it is a must also. While I am currently content with it, I think it can be better with something other than a factory barrel. I am considering replacing the barrel, or just building a whole new gun on a Surgeon 1581 XL action, and a Manner's or McMillan stock. Again those idea's are the courtesy of Nononsense.

    Best

    EDIT 1

    I use a commercial grade silicone mold release. I find that Hornady One Shot spray on case lube works well also. I use Brownells Steel Bed for my bedding compound.

    Best
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  • keystone1974
    Tsr1965 I use the fat wrench at 65# per sq inch and have a timmeny trigger... Soon as gun starts and ends I'm going to try the bedding... After Carefully reading u guys directions again.. And again. So u did or didn't use some sort of release/lube/ grease on the action(gun) so after it's epoxyed u can still take the gun away from the stock to clean?
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  • Tempest
    Need expert opinion on this. I just did this on a custom Mosin and it even made the rifle feel different, more firm. My groups were cut in half. However, at 100 yards, it moved the POI down a good 10" from before.

    Is this the result of the barrel/action tighter and thus pulling the POI down? Or, potentially binding and causing a problem. Is this normal to move the POI that much???
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  • pwillie
    I have a Winchester Laredo,with a boss,and a Hart Match Grade barrel...H.S. Stock...shooting 1/4 inch groups @300yds...
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  • nononsense
    keystone1974,

    Two of the most important steps involved with bedding a rifle are:

    1) Be sure to fill all holes and voids in the barreled action with clay.

    2) Use a standard release agent as supplied or recommended by the manufacturer of the 2-part epoxy. If not available, there are several variations discussed here and on other sites.

    I use a commercial mold release but it's fairly expensive when compared to other methods for infrequent bedding projects.

    We can all help walk you through the process when you're ready.

    Best.


    Tempest,

    Usually we suggest starting another topic instead of interrupting an established topic. That way both posters can take advantage of the most responses for each topic.

    "Is this the result of the barrel/action tighter and thus pulling the POI down? Or, potentially binding and causing a problem. Is this normal to move the POI that much??? "

    Hard to say what really took place without seeing the original rifle and how it was set up. There are so many variables that a precise answer is difficult at best.

    However, if the rifle is shooting good groups at the lower POI, what difference does it make? Binding, tightness, reduced aberrations or harmonics, etc. can all contribute to a shift in POI.

    Best.
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  • Tempest
    quote:
    Tempest,

    Usually we suggest starting another topic instead of interrupting an established topic. That way both posters can take advantage of the most responses for each topic.

    "Is this the result of the barrel/action tighter and thus pulling the POI down? Or, potentially binding and causing a problem. Is this normal to move the POI that much??? "

    Hard to say what really took place without seeing the original rifle and how it was set up. There are so many variables that a precise answer is difficult at best.

    However, if the rifle is shooting good groups at the lower POI, what difference does it make? Binding, tightness, reduced aberrations or harmonics, etc. can all contribute to a shift in POI.

    Best.




    Thanks for the feedback. Will start new topic next time. Pretty much the same response I got from the scope mount mfg. Just wanted to make sure it was abnormal. I will adjust accordingly.
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  • keystone1974
    Thanks fir Everyones response,.. After deer gun is over and mabey a bobcat then This Will b my Winter
    Project
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