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best finish for the $$$

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7 comments

  • slumlord44
    I like Tru-Oil. Three coats and it looks good. More and it looks better. Also easy to touch up.
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  • 511pe
    In my experiences, the best is basic bluing. Coatings like parkerized, Teflon, or epoxy tend to create stickiness or roughness with tight tolerances. The closest to the hard metal-like properties, the better. Example: hard tool chrome. The old fashioned bluing has a lot going for it in terms of tight tolerance performance. The best finish is with a smooth constant material, like polished stainless. Bead blasted metal holds skin oils all to well and can cause rust on stainless. It's up to you what your guns are worth. Bluing is not too expensive. My range 1911's usually are rebuilt old Colts with many varying blued or stainless parts because I like used various manufacturer's parts (depending on how good it's properties are on inspection) and stainless steel barrels. I suppose I could steel wool the entire thing for a constant in-the-white look. But if you clean and oil your guns regularly you'll find finishes don't matter much. If you carry or shoot a lot most finishes deplete. What ever you decide after the refinish shoot at least 150 rounds through it and clean it good. You may want to replace your springs for enhanced reliability Opinions vary.
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  • yoshmyster
    What are you talking about the wood or metal or both? For wood detailed prep with you being meticulous socialpath killer clean. With metal not so much that clean since you can use chem. to strip the metal clean.

    If the bits are aluminum some of the things listed ain't gonna stick.

    If something means the world to me I'd have "pros" do the job. Then again since you're going to keep them under glass I fear rust unless you're going to install some de-humidifiers. So something that's rust proof.

    Spend the cash so you don't have to pay it twice to "correct" your mishaps.

    quote:Originally posted by fl23in
    well the few i want to have redone dont hold any sentimental value. just nice shooters i would like to look nicer. all the "blueing" or what ever is gone


    If they're just shooters then let the fade be it's charactor. But if you still want pretty then cold blue dip/dab finish is the easiest. Rattle can cured in oven is next but you have to remember paint adds and might throw off fit and action. Park. finish will be more steps. I guess what level of comitment are you willing to put in?

    I suppose you have a few you might try the easiest and go from there. A thing of blue in a bottle and a weekend?
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  • gotstolefrom
    My 'old' guns are not 'cheap', not always cash, usually memory rich.

    I had seen some of the 'old school' bluing work from a particular gunsmith, and I sought him out. When he asked me when I wanted it, I told him 'whenever he was finished'.

    Now the 40+ yr old Win pump that I scavenged from my grandfather, has a hypnotizing deep blue finish. ( And oil rubbed furniture)

    If any of yours were originally 'old school blue' , consider the investment. I've never regretted mine.

    ENJOY !
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  • fl23in
    well the few i want to have redone dont hold any sentimental value. just nice shooters i would like to look nicer. all the "blueing" or what ever is gone
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  • Riomouse911
    I picked up a Mk I Ruger pistol for 85 bucks on GB that looked like it was left in a drawer after a flood. Rusted and pitted so bad on the outside it was almost ruined, but somehow the bore was in good shape. I bead blasted it and sprayed it with grey Durabake and baked it. (A bit over 25 bucks a can) new grips for 8 bucks on eBay, 2 new mags and all new internal springs from Ruger. Now it looks great, is 100% reliable (so far) and pretty accurate to boot.
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  • Spartacus
    the easiest, most durable and reasonable finish you can do at home is ceramacoat . you can get it at brownells or midway. only comes in matte bleach though.
    i can, around 35 bucks, will do 3 handguns. very durable.

    tom
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