smith and wesson 19
i have a s&w model 19 it operates smooth when you pull the trigger
but if you pull the hammer back first it operates kinda stiff just started
when pulling the hammer it is really stiff not sure any sugestions
but if you pull the hammer back first it operates kinda stiff just started
when pulling the hammer it is really stiff not sure any sugestions
0
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Dirt or old oil build up on spring. Clean it very well. 0 -
quote:Originally posted by docsgunsmithing [edited, slightly]
?I have a s&w model 19.
It operates smooth[ly] when you pull the trigger.
But if you pull the hammer back first it operates kinda stiff[ly].
[This problem] just started when pulling cocking the hammer.
It is really stiff.
[I'm] not sure [what's wrong].
Any suggestions?
My first suggestion is that good punctuation never hurts when trying to communicate in writing.
That aside, I'm not sure I understand the problem you are describing.
Is your problem that the hammer is stiff when you try to cock it, or is it that the trigger pull becomes stiff once the gun is cocked? Or is it something else?
What I can say, is that what is supposed to happen is that if the gun is NOT cocked, and you pull the trigger, you should have a smooth but heavy-feeling double-action trigger pull of about 10-12 pounds while the hammer goes back then drops and sets off the round.
If the hammer is down, and you cock it manually with your thumb, then a. you should feel quite a bit of resistance in cocking the hammer, and it should "click" several times before saying back. After that, if you pull the trigger, you should have a crisp light trigger pull of about 3.5 lbs before the hammer drops.
Now, *IF* you're having trouble cocking the gun, or if the double-action trigger pull has become really hard all of a sudden, it could be one of several things. The ejector rod might have become partly unscrewed, and that can bind up the cylinder. If that happens the cylinder will probably also be hard to open. Way to fix this is to open the cylinder, open up the rod a bit, apply some blue loctite (or nail polish) then turn it back down snug.
Alternatively, you could have some dirt or goo on the front of the cylinder or rear of the barrel, and its causing resistance to the cylinder turning. Way to fix that, is just to scrub off the dirt. Its a bit less common, but you could also have dirt or goo on the axis the cylinder rotates on. For that, again, you'd have to remove the cylinder, then clean things up.
Hope that helped a bit.
Smith 19-5 4" bbl:
Edit: I don't think dirt sticking to the leaf spring is going to cause problems in cocking or trigger pull, but certainly rust, congealed oil or dirt INSIDE the gun can cause all kinds of problems. Solution, of course, is to CAREFULLY open up the side panel (you do have to know what you're doing here; don't just rip open the screws) look inside, then if necessary give things a clean and lube.0 -
thanks ill try that 0 -
My first suggestion is that good punctuation never hurts when trying to communicate in writing.
Who cares about what you think about punctuation this is a gun fourn not grad school!0 -
quote:Originally posted by Emmett Dunham
quote:Beantownshootah:
My first suggestion is that good punctuation never hurts when trying to communicate in writing.
Who cares about what you think about punctuation this is a gun fourn not grad school!
Its "grad school" for lots of people working on their guns. I've sure learned a lot here.
Anyway, the reason this matters is because the original poster's question is written so poorly its difficult to understand just exactly what he's asking.
I've read his question several times, and I still don't know for sure whether his problem is with the hammer or with the trigger (or both).
Makes it hard to answer the question, when you have to guess about what the problem is.
Along those lines, you may not like my remark about punctuation, but at least I made some suggestions about fixing the problem (or at least fixing what MIGHT be the problem). Didn't notice any from you.0 -
Agreed on a good cleanup/lubrication session being your initial move.
The first step of diagnosing problems with the action of a revolver is to completely disassemble and thoroughly clean everything. It's a machine which operates through use of timed components and each of these needs to be working efficiently in order to isolate which is throwing a wrench in the works.
This full disassembly also gives the opportunity to spot any alterations or non-standard parts that might've shown up in one or more of the gun's previous lives. The removal - or at least the awareness - of unexpected variables greatly aids in the accuracy of problem diagnosis.
As simple as it is, when dealing with an unknown history, new-to-you gun don't be surprised if a thorough cleaning alone doesn't clear up functional issues - especially on a DA revolver.0 -
HURRAH for you Beantownshootah! Now if you could just get Rufe-Snow to learn the difference between homophones his posts might take less than 10 reads to make sense. 0 -
Doc, before you do anything, open the cylinder, and take a pair of padded pliars and see if you can gently tighten the ejector rod.
Grab the rod by the knurled end, and tighten in the opposite direction of normal tightning. (Use the 'unscrew' motion).
Be gentle, here..as the ejector rod casing is very thin steel.
Then, get some type of spray 'gun cleaner/scrubber', and, by using the little plastic straw attachment, spray the innards before you make an attempt to open the sideplate.
I have a strong suspicion that either, or both items in this post may solve your 'binding' problem.
Best, Joe0 -
quote:Originally posted by foxbat3
HURRAH for you Beantownshootah! Now if you could just get Rufe-Snow to learn the difference between homophones his posts might take less than 10 reads to make sense.
Homophones - on GB!? I don't like the way that sounds ..... [;)]
In addition to gunk in all sorts of places such as the hand slot in the frame, the rebound unit or the cylinder's post also consider something mechanical like timing or the cylinder ratchet. The cylinder bolt may not be dropping out of the way quick enough or a ratchet may have a "ding" on it causing the hand to not roll it as easily.
Hopefully a good cleaning does the trick.0 -
I'm with beantown. I'm not sure of the problem either. 0 -
quote:Originally posted by foxbat3
HURRAH for you Beantownshootah! Now if you could just get Rufe-Snow to learn the difference between homophones his posts might take less than 10 reads to make sense.
You sure your posting to the correct forum?0
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