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Securing front TruGlo Tritium/fiberoptic sight

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10 comments

  • rufe-snow
    Try various grades of locktight on the screw, and tightening it as much as possible before drilling any holes in the slide.
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  • dcs shooters
    The 3/4" Hi=Viz on my G-17 has stayed tight for three years of matches now.
    I would clean the sight and slide and put some BLUE locktight on the bottom of it. Let it dry good before shooting it.
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  • v35
    Do both mating parts have to be wetted with Loctite or just one?
    Should I fill the slide hole around the bushing as well as the screw?
    Do I need to clamp the blade to slide while it's setting up?

    In the '80s a toolmaker making parts for me had Loctite set up while he
    was assembling a rifled sleeve using the recommended clearance. The sleeve had to be bored out. There was no moving it.
    I forget which Loctite version he used.
    For that reason I'm nervous about screwing up a $100 sight using the wrong method.

    P.S. It wouldn't bother me to drill a hole in the slide if necessary.
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  • Riomouse911
    I'd do what DCS/R-S both posted, clean it really well to remove the oil/crud, make sure the screw mates well with the threaded hole, and use the blue Loctite. It doesn't take any more than a drop or so, as the excess gets squeezed out of the hole when the screw threads/hole threads mate. Let it set up for a few days before introducing gun cleaning agents or oil, and you're good to go.
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  • rufe-snow
    quote:Originally posted by v35
    Do both mating parts have to be wetted with Loctite or just one?
    Should I fill the slide hole around the bushing as well as the screw?
    Do I need to clamp the blade to slide while it's setting up?

    In the '80s a toolmaker making parts for me had Loctite set up while he
    was assembling a rifled sleeve using the recommended clearance. The sleeve had to be bored out. There was no moving it.
    I forget which Loctite version he used.
    For that reason I'm nervous about screwing up a $100 sight using the wrong method.

    P.S. It wouldn't bother me to drill a hole in the slide if necessary.


    More then likely it was red locktight, it commonly used for permanent instillations. Sets up like epoxy, which I believe it's a type of. You don't have to worry about blue locktight, it doesn't set up for a permanent bond like the red stuff does.
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  • dcs shooters
    quote:Originally posted by v35
    Do both mating parts have to be wetted with Loctite or just one?
    EDIT- just the bottom of the sight.
    Should I fill the slide hole around the bushing as well as the screw?
    Do I need to clamp the blade to slide while it's setting up?
    NO, just tighten the screw.

    In the '80s a toolmaker making parts for me had Loctite set up while he
    was assembling a rifled sleeve using the recommended clearance. The sleeve had to be bored out. There was no moving it.
    I forget which Loctite version he used. RED
    For that reason I'm nervous about screwing up a $100 sight using the wrong method.

    P.S. It wouldn't bother me to drill a hole in the slide if necessary.

    DON'T TRY. You don't have a drill bit hard enough
    Glock slides are harder than woodpecker lips [B)]
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  • Mobuck
    For anything regarding connecting plastic to metal, I've become a believer in 3M plastic trim/emblem adhesive. Got some at AutoZone to reattach a ventvisor and it works. Possibly not resistant to cleaning/bore solvents.
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  • v35
    Disappointingly, Truglo wasn't forthcoming with front sight mounting
    instructions. The arrangement is mechanically weak as the 1" long blade hangs like a flag from a small screw at its' very front.
    My trust will be in the above recommended gluing of the blade and the tiny mounting screw threads using Blue Loctite.
    I don't have much faith in butt joining steel except by welding.
    Adhesive bonding is outside my experience and education.
    This sight is a longer, heavier blade than the plain fiber optic style.
    It will be a learning experience if it holds up.
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  • tsr1965
    As advised, the blue loctite will be fine. I use a lot of the I believe 690, it is a clear green, between the blue and red in strength. However, even the red is high strength, it can be removed with heat, in the bottom side of the slide, as not to screw up your site.

    I am not sure if this is your first go around with fiber optics, but there are some solvents that will eat them. No worry, as the element is EASILY replacable.

    Best
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  • v35
    Done, we'll see how it stands up in a couple of days.
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