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S&W 4506 no dash help

flapjack
Hi everyone-I recently bought a 4506, and took it to the range for the first time today. Two concerns resulted: the single action trigger seems to have an acre of "take up" in it. More than any hand gun I have ever handled, the best part of a half inch in travel at the end of the trigger. The trigger goes almost all of the way to the frame before there is any resistance at all, so that when you finally get it to shoot, it is an awkward feeling, resulting in poor consistancy. Is there something I can do, or is this a S&W only situation? There is a very mild "click" or catch just before you finally get to the place where it will actually shoot. Also, of a lesser concern, the rear adjustable sight, which may be a Millet (SP) is all the way down, and still shoots quite high. I would appreciate all helpful comments. Thanks, Flapjack.
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Comments

5 comments

Date Votes
  • nmyers
    It's more of a "S&W generational" issue. Their semi-autos have 3 or 4 generations, with slight improvements to the trigger at each revision. Really nothing to be done about it, except borrow a Glock, & the S&W won't seem so bad in comparison.

    Different ammo may be worth trying to correct the sight issue. The 4506 came with Novak white dot Lo-Mount fixed or adjustable sights; if they have been changed, you may want to change back.

    Neal
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  • sandwarrior
    flapjack,

    I'm not sure which generation of S&W 4506 I shot, but the 'acre of take-up' was like a two stage. It was spring pressure only not trigger-sear pressure, which is harder to overcome.

    The double action feature was spring and some roughness as the mechanism moved the hammer back (metal riding metal) to the firing point, then released.

    Most all SA/DA pistols I've shot are that way. If it causes too much instability while shooting it, I would say get the trigger take-up and tension adjusted.
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  • yoshmyster
    Ah the later years of Don Johnson's "Miami Vice" gun. Pretty much all the S&W's '90's guns had that take up movement. It desn't bother me. Kind a reminds me of my KIDD's two stage trigger I got on my 10/22. Basically the first stage is weightless with very light spring tention. Then there is the point of no free movement you reach. Finally a 1/8" movement to go bang.

    Only "click" I get on my S&W is in double trigger action. When I get about half way the trigger group clicks. If I let off on the trigger she goes on the half cock kind a deal. Years ago I read that there is a way to dis-engage this "click".

    Also ain't you "supposed" to move the rear sights "UP" to shoot lower? Kind a wondering how far back you are to be shooting high? For fun move the target (or yous) out a ways to see where dude had her "zero-ed". Personally I'd go with a Novak "style" Night Sights since your rig ain't no tack driver (and no I'm not trash talking since I do like all my S&Ws).
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  • tsr1965
    That type of trigger movement would be standard in the second and third generation S&W's. The third gen., being your 4506. Someone well versed in those triggers, can accommodate you with your wishes, but is not going to be inexpensive.

    Lastly, your sight situation. You need to put in a higher front sight, or a shorter rear sight. If the rear sight has the replacable blades, you might be able to get just a shorter blade to help you out. Personaly, I have a hard time dealing with fixed type sights, and prefer the Millet, or Bomar. If your pistol is cut for the NOVAK sight, there is a company in Binghamton, NY that makes an adjustable rear sight for the NOVAK cut. Fusion Firearms would be that company.

    Best
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  • flapjack
    Thanks everyone. It looks like it's off to S&W for the 4506. They're sending me a lable! There is a fix for the "click" thing. You gently push on the brass two little ears that stick up from the trigger in the frame with a pencil eraser, or something like that, while wiggling the trigger in single action. It cured the click, but not the creep. Thanks again-I'll check back in case there is anything else. Oh, and to adjust sights you just remember "FORS" which stands for front opposite-rear same. If you want to move where the bullet hits to the right-move the rear sight to the right, or the front sight to the left, etc. Thanks, Flapjack.
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