Gun Blueing Question
What quick bluing solutions do you think is the best for long term wear and protection? I have some arts Belgium blue which used to be made by (herters). I plan on using this as I do not want to fool with acids on a cheap rifle. Anyone used this bluing? What did you think of it?
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You want to protect a firearm for long term wear, forget bluing. Paint it, the brits and other militaries have been painting their guns successfully since the Second World War. Brownells carries all the different types of paint you will need. 0 -
I believe the folks at Brownells customer service dept could give you some sound advice and information since they used to carry, maybe still do, Arts Bluing aka "Herters".
When properly done a rust blue finish is second to none in appearance and durability. It is very labor intense and that is why companys turned to hot blue in about the 1930s.
With rust blue remember preparation is everything, follow the directions. dont know if you want to waste your time on "cheap guns" though.0 -
Thanks all for the info, I will look into the Arts, time is not a problem and it will give me practice, I prefer the look of bluing.
If it doesn't work there is alwa'y paint.[:)]0 -
You'll be surprised by the appearance of a paint job when it is done well. It looks a lot like Parkerizing. I've had great results from high temp wood stove paint. It's tough and yet thin enough so that all of the lettering still shows clearly. [:)] 0 -
quote:Originally posted by andrewsw16
You'll be surprised by the appearance of a paint job when it is done well. It looks a lot like Parkerizing. I've had great results from high temp wood stove paint. It's tough and yet thin enough so that all of the lettering still shows clearly. [:)]
Thanks that is an idea I will have to try. Do you thin the coatings out? Do you use more than one coat. Do you bake it after applying. nt hing else I need to know on this stove paint?
something like this ok?
http://www.stovepaint.com/Products/Products.asp?id=10 -
I have used Belgian Blue now and then for years. It can do a good job. It is a tedious process of boil part in water, apply BB, water again, steel wool, water again and repeat at least six times to get a dark blue. The blue is more satin than shiny. I have burnished it with the side of a wire brush wheel to make it more shiny. It is pretty tough to stand that. It is the best blue I know of that you can do at home. Last time I did it was a S&W .44 DA topbreak, took about 3 hours, one part at a time. 0 -
Dura coat works well. 0 -
Ok, thanks for the info; I will try the Ats and see how it goes. I have the time and the tank for hot water. I will just need a heat source, probably a coleman camp stove should do the trick. If it turns out wrong, it will be duracoat. Now for tear down sandpaper and buffing wheels. 0
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